scythe23

iTrader: (4)

Wildcat. I have a stock b5m body you can have its in great shape I just got the proline one. I can give it to you at the warehouse

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I am going to run the 3mm on my car because....something is wrong with the 4mm inserts. My bearing barely function with them, yet they are smooth in the +3.

scythe23

iTrader: (4)

I just put on flat arms and shock tower and switched to 3mm inserts to try at the warehouse so if I make it tonight I'll let you know what the difference I felt

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

sounds good. I am looking forward to running MM. I tried the TLR and didnt care for the edge of my seat driving. I am hoping the MM B5 work well indoors on medium bite. Plus the new mist system at w3 seems to keep the track consistent.

NoNothing

God those are ugly mills. I'd definitely polish those bad boys up a bit.

It looks from pictures that it's just the stock plate with some weight milled out.

Wonder if I could take my stock plate to a machine shop

Mason

I think they need to work on their programming to clean up the mill marks. It's probably doing the "fastest" work but definitely not the prettiest.

Mason

Personally I rather see the finned design come back.

scythe23

iTrader: (4)

Well I'm FAR from the best driver but the warehouse has awesome traction now even if it does get super humid I'll take it. Even with my limited driving skills the b5m hooks up great. You gonna run stock or mod? Only a few of us run the mm in stock but I still love how it handles

Wild Cherry

We used a set of those fancy scales for weighting the car at each wheel.

Turns out if you go with the inline short battery ?

Whether you mount the esc in front or rear of battery ?

Same weight distribution...

Also will share the same weight distribution as the RB6 & TLR 22 when using inline short pack.

So ?

Get the battery forward and loose the spaghetti look & weight from having all that wire.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I plan to run mod with it, but for now I will run 17.5, just because i wanted to compare the 2 cars. I am still trying to decide what mod motor I want. Probably a reedy, and somewhere between an 8.5 and a 10.5. I just sold a reedy 8.5 /face palm

scythe23

iTrader: (4)

Lol I hate when I do that. Wish I was good enough to run mod...oh well practice practice. Mod competition is stiff at w3, he'll last week rivkin lapped second place

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

yeah, I wont win lol. I just want to run a second class, and I hate hate hate short course. And 4wd buggy is just to fragile for my liking. 2wd buggy is my favorite class, so even if I am in last place I will enjoy it. I keep selling stuff, then need it 2 months later. It has happened at least a dozen times in the last year. I may end up just boosting a 13.5 or 10.5 for mod. I ran a 13.5 a few weeks ago on the current layout, and that is all the motor I really need. But there may be layouts in the future where i need more grunt. I am not concerned about top speed, but the low end grunt from a lower turn motor cant be tuned with boost. I have tried and its always fail. Maybe better to get a 8.5 and de-tune it accordingly to my liking.

t0p_sh0tta

iTrader: (35)

All that's needed for mod, or any racing really, is consistency. Hit your marks every lap, stay off the pipe, avoid traffic/have patience, and you'll always place well.

17.5 is great to start, but people tend to linger too long. Don't be afraid to motor up, and go after the "fast guys" in mod. On smaller tracks, and even some bigger ones, I've had my butt kicked my more consistent 17.5 drivers.

p.s. If transitioning to mod, start with 9.5/8.5 motor. 10.5 feels weird (overly torquey), and anything hotter can definitely be a handful.

p.p.s. Even the "Pros" limit the throttle EPA.

vito

Schelle Racing Nova "Stock" Slipper Assembly
[SHL1301]

or the aivd one?

Wild Cherry

Either one both almost the same.
Also get a couple red pads Vito.
Use white on back of spur & the two red on the outside of spur.