Deluxe312

iTrader: (1)

I have had a similar experience. Rear is great with square pack, mid is great with shorty, but not at all the other way around.

scythe23

iTrader: (4)

Awsome thanks I figured I would bust out manual but I was at work also I was curious about others thoughts with the 3mm te

roundguy

iTrader: (2)

Agreed. I put the X-Rings in my shocks in March and they haven't leaked a bit.

Jason Turner

iTrader: (67)

Oops I have been running 3 trailing with hubs forward and 2mm ackerman what will changing to what you mentioned do?

bambambennett

A reduction in side bite can be achieved by many different things. I can say my B5's like different tire combos than my B4's and 22's did(on the same track). first, play with camber. Try -.5. If that doesn't help, run less toe on the rear. If that doesn't help, run a higher roll center in the rear only. Try lowering the ball stud 1mm at a time until it gets sketchy, then go back a half a mm. HPI has 3X.5ballstud washers for about 3 bucks. to control fishtailing, change esc setting to smoother, loosen slipper, lighter throttle input, or slow your steering down on your radio. Believe it or not, you can be overcompensating when using a really fast servo. I don't mess with dual rates, just servo speed mode on my radio.

nordfink

If you liked your 4.2, square or saddle will be very familiar. ..

nordfink

Honestly, best thing I've done is something I mentioned at least 100 pages ago. Probably one of the first...Mm front arms, steering is dialed anywhere... shorty front or back. One of the best things to do to gain "on power steering"...

RandomRacer

Hi everyone. I'm new to this site but not rc.

Anyway, I picked up a new B5m last week and spent some time reading through this entire thread. A LOT of great info here!

Long story short, one of the tracks I run on is a small carpet track with only small jumps. So I was looking for a way to test different amounts of droop as we only get about a foot of air. So this is what I came up with. Hopefully others will find it useful!

If you are using the inside ballstud position for the inner camber link, you can install a screw (or grub screw) in the outer hole from the bottom. With the ballcup resting on the tip of the screw you now have the ability to adjust droop!

At the very least you can use this for testing droop settings before committing to tearing down your shocks to add limiters.

I took a couple pictures so you can see what I mean. Hopefully it'll let me attach them, being a new member...

nordfink

Is remarkable... it was an "omg" moment for me. ..

chopperjames619

iTrader: (47)

Soak the X rings in oil for a couple of days. This should help them swell up. Its what I was told to do and it worked great.

iTz Nicholas72

iTrader: (19)

Think I might end up getting the M after all. And before anyone ask yes, this is simply because of the article about MM taking over. Haha

bambambennett

I have gone back to flat arms. The gullwing arms tend to give a bit of a hook feel in the middle of the turn I couldn't dial out. It did eliminate my push using the same setup, but I feel they are a bit inconsistent feeling,not silky smooth

racer_guy

iTrader: (5)

well, its official. http://www.redrc.net/2014/06/team-as...es/#more-82101

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I converted one of my RM cars last night. Sadly a few screws were missing so I will need to hunt for some in my rc piles. I am looking forward to running it back to back against my RM car for comparison. Now, I need a body and wing. Also, I built the car with the f/r RM car arms. The MM conversion overall went ok. The fit and finish was not great. Many of the screws that mounted the plastics to the chassis had screw holes that didnt line up. So I had to flex and manipulate several screws to get them in.

Deluxe312

iTrader: (1)

I have changed just the inserts too and could not tell a whole lot of different from all 3 changes being made in tandem. With only the inserts changed, you are running a longer wheelbase, and a more aggressive ackerman setup. (less ackerman washers = less aggressive steering).