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Old 06-04-2014, 07:30 AM
  #10726  
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Originally Posted by gticlay
I don't get why people still buy the Avid when the Schelle comes with the spring cover piece, extra pads, and quieter spurs. Don't make no sense.
I'm sticking with the kits VTS, just as smooth & quiet..

Why spend $ for no extra performance ?
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:35 AM
  #10727  
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got my esc re stuck will see thanks for the tips love this car a lot
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:43 AM
  #10728  
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need to fine a esc like a tekin rs gen 2 to run a fantom apex 17.5 be a good set up
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:59 AM
  #10729  
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what can I do to slow down a 17.5 and not so hard on the brakes lock wheels up
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Old 06-04-2014, 08:00 AM
  #10730  
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in regards to 4wd chassis slap, its part tuning and part throttle happy drivers.

Anyways, back on topic. Can't wait for the offset shoulder bushings to come in..
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Old 06-04-2014, 08:04 AM
  #10731  
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Originally Posted by gticlay
I don't get why people still buy the Avid when the Schelle comes with the spring cover piece, extra pads, and quieter spurs. Don't make no sense.
avid has an update b5 spring washer. You can also pick your own spurs now. Custom kits. I wont get into my issues with Kurt again, but when Kurt makes something NEW, I might try it out
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Old 06-04-2014, 08:07 AM
  #10732  
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Originally Posted by Rybeau40
My 4wd weighs less than my old 2.0 mod class buggy. If you're slapping, the tuning is off...shouldn't matter whether 2 or 4. Different vehicle, different tuning. 2wd will always be harder to drive and better to learn on.
I saw Maiflied and Rivkin slapping. You jump long enough and flat land, you can slap a MM no problem. Saw RM's do the same jump and land dead silent. I would think the RM would slap more with all of that weight over 2 shocks.
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Old 06-04-2014, 08:38 AM
  #10733  
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Originally Posted by slakr
Ouch! To each their own I guess. Been building, bashing and racing these silly cars since 1984. Cleaning the surface as scuffing them has worked well for me. Haven't lost a receiver, ESC or servo that was taped until I wanted to remove it.
You've been lucky to have not had equipment become unglued. You see, the way adhesives work is that the tacky substrate relies on as much surface area as possible in order to maintain it's maximum hold. When you scuff you create peaks and valleys and subsequently reduce the amount of surface area for the tape to stick to. When a surface is smooth and clean, the surface area is maximized and thus, so too is the strength of the hold.

I install vehicle wraps and have vast experience with adhesive materials from all sorts of manufacturers. All of them are very specific in letting you know that their products perform best when installed on clean, dry, and smooth surfaces. For porous surfaces like those black plastic car bumpers and the like you have to use a vinyl that has a special type of adhesive that is 5-6 times stronger than the regular top tier stuff.

Moving forward, try cleaning with alcohol as Wildcat suggested and see how much stronger the bond will be. I've gotten blisters on my fingertips trying to remove some of my ESC's and Receivers. LOL

For easier and non blistering removal, there's a liquid called Rapid Remover that is citrus based and removes adhesive better than anything on the planet. just a drop or 2 on the edge and allow it to work for 5-10 seconds and it comes right off. Sadly it's one of the most expensive liquids I've ever come across at $56 per a gallon. Yeah, I've purchased tons of this stuff over the years and it hurts every time.

Last edited by the incubus; 06-04-2014 at 01:18 PM.
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Old 06-04-2014, 09:43 AM
  #10734  
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Depends on the car and the shock package.

B44s are slap monsters, but they run 20-22mm ride height. They used to make even more racket when people ran lexan chassis protectors.

Regarding 2WD slap, MM will generally slap more because you're using a shock package with softer dampening to aid in weight transfer.

For those running mod, how are you liking the B5M? I've been off for a few months and thinking about making the move back to a MM buggy. Any of you running on med to low grip tracks?
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Old 06-04-2014, 11:03 AM
  #10735  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I saw Maiflied and Rivkin slapping. You jump long enough and flat land, you can slap a MM no problem. Saw RM's do the same jump and land dead silent. I would think the RM would slap more with all of that weight over 2 shocks.
Agree.
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Old 06-04-2014, 11:03 AM
  #10736  
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
Depends on the car and the shock package.

B44s are slap monsters, but they run 20-22mm ride height. They used to make even more racket when people ran lexan chassis protectors.

Regarding 2WD slap, MM will generally slap more because you're using a shock package with softer dampening to aid in weight transfer.

For those running mod, how are you liking the B5M? I've been off for a few months and thinking about making the move back to a MM buggy. Any of you running on med to low grip tracks?
Some guys swear the MM works outdoors on low bite. But, my experience has been a big no. Mainly because an outdoor watered track can greatly change mid heat and the car becomes hard to drive. On, the upside, if you get a MM and dislike it, the mm to rm conversion is pretty cheap, lol. The RM to MM is more pricey to convert
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Old 06-04-2014, 11:38 AM
  #10737  
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Is the "hat" bushing the same as in the V1 BB shocks. I was putting in some xrings and one went missing. Looked everywhere. I suspect they are different, but will they work in a pinch?
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Old 06-04-2014, 12:35 PM
  #10738  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
You've been lucky to have not had equipment become unglued. You see, the way adhesives work is that the tacky substrate relies on as much surface area as possible in order to maintain it's maximum hold. When you scuff you create peaks and valleys and subsequently reduce the amount of surface area for the tape to stick to. When a surface is smooth and clean, the surface area is maximized and thus, so too is the strength of the hold.

I install vehicle wraps and have vast experience with adhesive materials from all sorts of manufacturers. All of them are very specific in letting you know that their products perform best when installed on clean, dry, and smooth surfaces. For porous surfaces like those black plastic car bumpers and the like you have to use a vinyl that has a special type of adhesive that is 5-6 times stronger than the regular top tier stuff.

Moving forward, try cleaning with alcohol as Wildcat suggested and see how much stronger the bond will be. I've gotten blisters on my fingertips trying to remove some of my ESC's and Receivers. LOL

For easier and non blistering removal, there's a liquid called Rapid Remover that is citrus based and removes adhesive better than anything on the planet. just a drop or 2 on the edge and allow it to work for 5-10 seconds and it comes right off. Sadly it's one of the most expensive liquids I've ever come across at $per a gallon. Yeah, I've purchased tons of this stuff over the years and it hurts every time.
good knowledge...
Dont need the remover liquid now as MIP and Parma both sell servo tape that comes completely off when you remove it
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Old 06-04-2014, 12:37 PM
  #10739  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Is the "hat" bushing the same as in the V1 BB shocks. I was putting in some xrings and one went missing. Looked everywhere. I suspect they are different, but will they work in a pinch?
Why didnt you use the hat bushing you took out to install the X ring hat bushing? Since you were in a pinch....
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Old 06-04-2014, 01:38 PM
  #10740  
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Originally Posted by vito
what can I do to slow down a 17.5 and not so hard on the brakes lock wheels up
If your radio has an ATL adjustment (it's like the dual rate on the steering side but for the throttle). You can turn down the brakes on the fly.
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