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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 06-03-2014, 08:39 AM
  #10666  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Half worn will steer more cept if dusty.

New tires steer less, not a bad or good thing. Just account for when your tuning.

Hope you have gone to the inline , just do it if you have not Clayton.
Don't make me come up there and show you.
Promise you will put the hurt on Nate with.

Even Scott said yesterday I sure pick up the pace.

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I never practice with my B5, instead over the last 3 weeks been practicing with the B44.
4w takes more ability to drive well & knowing to drive either well makes you far more capable then someone who only runs a 2w.
Can't disagree more; 4wd doesn't take more ability, it takes an adjustment in driving going back and forth between the two. 2wd requires more finger control and tuning.
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Old 06-03-2014, 08:57 AM
  #10667  
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Originally Posted by gticlay
When the outside ribs start wearing off your favorite front tires do you keep running them as is, cut the ribs off, or toss em? Proline says the ribs are there to reduce the aggressiveness of them and I've run fronts with the ribs gone before but wondering what you guys do. Scrubs or barcodes are a good example.
Personally I dislike the outside rib for my application which is high bite indoor action. It may be alright for a dustier surfaces but for my application the outside rib (both edges) deflects the tire costing me time in the corners. So generally I remove it or prepare not to win until it wears down.
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:04 AM
  #10668  
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Does anyone know the weight difference between the aluminum arm mounts and the stock plastic ones, if there's any weight difference at all?

thanks,
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:06 AM
  #10669  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
get use to , mid motor takes time .

Also mid hates heavy braking.

Practice to be smoother entering corners and smoother on throttle .

Personally run about 15% softer brake then if using a rear motor .
Good to know, and that's the number I arrived at vs with my B4.2 as far as EPA on the brake side of my radio.
Originally Posted by rickster
tbird.... on the brakes you want just enough to slow the car quickly.. not lock up the back.. the whole idea is to carry your corner speed.. that's were races are won.. if you figure there are 8-12 corners on a typical offroad track.. if you can gain even 1/4 a second a corner then your 2-3 seconds a lap faster!!!! Huge difference.

also be careful if your running the stock slipper as if you run it to loose the metal disc between the pads will get to hot and cause the discs to swell and the slipper becomes inconsistent and make your car start feeling looser about halfway thru the race.

the vented vs slipper discs from associated are way lighter and much more consistant.. easy and inexpensive switch.
Thanks for the slipper info. I never felt "right" with the VTS slipper on the 4.2...my DEX210's stock slipper actually felt better.
I just felt like the car wasn't braking hard enough after the straight; again, it was a loose outdoor track, so YMMV. With the brakes set up for my B4.2 (and everything else in the speedo the same), it was fine everywhere else on the track, but the end of the straight going into the 180 it got loose.
Originally Posted by RC10Nick
Why get used to a bad setup?

Replace that 4 gear with a 3 gear and put the weight where it needs to be to generate enough grip and all your problems will be solved!
Yes, because the motor isn't already DIRECTLY next to the diff...3 v 4 gear isn't going to help move the motor back. This motor already sits plenty far back.
Originally Posted by gticlay
I got up early this morning to try out my new Wolfpack shorty and a little different setup. I really do like how it drives with the shorty but honestly, I'm still not happy with it - the car is still difficult to drive. Man, my B5RM had so much traction coming on to the straight that it could do wheelies sometimes. B5M, not so much. I actually went so far as to put .5 toe in out back. It's worst coming on to the straight and when off power coasting into sharp turns. Starting to wonder if the MM just isn't for me. The 4wd car on the other hand was a really treat to drive today! I just can't get enough of driving that car!
I'm running a ThunderPower 65c 3800mah shorty in my B5, and the car is super easy to drive. It even has a little push on corner exit. It's got so much rear grip it's not even funny with the box stock setup. What's your setup like? I wouldn't mind making the car a little more aggressive.
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:06 AM
  #10670  
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they will weigh more than plastic, but why do you care?
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:11 AM
  #10671  
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thanks for the info. I just want to make sure it's not significantly heavier than the stock. Then, I don't have to change my setup at all. If it's significantly heavier, then I can plan my tuning changes accordingly.
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:15 AM
  #10672  
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How much do the stock axles weigh?

The Lunsford titanium are 5.5 grams.
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:15 AM
  #10673  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Half worn will steer more cept if dusty.

New tires steer less, not a bad or good thing. Just account for when your tuning.

Hope you have gone to the inline , just do it if you have not Clayton.
Don't make me come up there and show you.
Promise you will put the hurt on Nate with.

Even Scott said yesterday I sure pick up the pace.

Tip

I never practice with my B5, instead over the last 3 weeks been practicing with the B44.
4w takes more ability to drive well & knowing to drive either well makes you far more capable then someone who only runs a 2w.
I've been practicing with my 4wd a lot - a pack on each car every time I go. I'll eventually try the inline mod but it's quite a bit of work to do. Sounds like it's worth the effort though.

Curious - how is the 2.4 wheel doing there? Are people still cutting up barcodes to fit on the AKA rims or what? I was thinking that by next winter, 2.2 will be all but dead like when we moved from 2.0's way back when.
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:17 AM
  #10674  
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Originally Posted by Eaglesrx
thanks for the info. I just want to make sure it's not significantly heavier than the stock. Then, I don't have to change my setup at all. If it's significantly heavier, then I can plan my tuning changes accordingly.
They must be pretty close. They also make brass ones for people that do want more weight.
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:22 AM
  #10675  
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Ease of tuning outweighs the slightly heavier aluminum parts. It is much easier to adjust the anti squat / toe with the pills than changing the entire mount out.
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:24 AM
  #10676  
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Originally Posted by gticlay
They also make brass ones for people that do want more weight.
For the mid motor....i dont believe they offer them for the rear.
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:24 AM
  #10677  
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So, coming from a tlr buggy, I assume I can't use the rims/tires from it? I do have the front axle/clamp setup ready for install, but can't find the rear in stock anywhere. Does this mean I can use my DE racing rims from my losi on the front, but not the rear ones yet?
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:27 AM
  #10678  
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not into debating which is to drive Ryeau
My reason for such a statement
#1 4w requires far more throttle control because you can't just lift power & glide flat on landings. Lift power all the way & expect a big nose dive with 4w. Driver needs to hold more on power throttle in the corner as well.

#2
2w has far better suspension & can land harder with no slap.

4w has to be landed on every down hill ramp off the jumps and has to be driven smoother.

A wheeler is a must have tool in any pit box .

GTI

still using the AKA rim & Jc tire.
Better when traction comes up .
also still using Jc with standard rim when traction is down, both perform well.

Best part about the
combination is you can get a second life out of the AKA insert by trimming off the inside bars .

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 06-03-2014 at 09:56 AM.
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:28 AM
  #10679  
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Originally Posted by Rybeau40
So, coming from a tlr buggy, I assume I can't use the rims/tires from it? I do have the front axle/clamp setup ready for install, but can't find the rear in stock anywhere. Does this mean I can use my DE racing rims from my losi on the front, but not the rear ones yet?
huh? the rear "should" work fine. I use tlr 22 rears on my b5. The fronts have a completely different off set. Your car will be narrow in the front.
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:58 AM
  #10680  
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Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
Yes, because the motor isn't already DIRECTLY next to the diff...3 v 4 gear isn't going to help move the motor back. This motor already sits plenty far back.
3 vs 4 gear has absolutely nothing to do with motor placement. It changes how the torque of the motor is applied to the chassis. That's all.
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