3srcracing

iTrader: (29)

Less anti squat= ???

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

You're doing something wrong. 17.5 stock buggy is the least expensive class to run. Motors don't change much and last nearly forever in a lightweight buggy, ditto batteries. They're easy on tires (which are the cheapest per set of any class) unlessunless you get caught up in the chemical game.

Cridd

iTrader: (16)

I think 17.5 is cheap accept for weight reduction but I enjoy the fun in it. The B5 is pretty light from the get go.

brad996

iTrader: (11)

To me it adds more rear grip

Adamska27

iTrader: (2)

I'm still figuring the car out, and have only scanned the past couple dozen pages to try to get caught up, but here's where I'm at

Med to high traction (of course) 1.6 flats machined 30-35 depending on factors, greys front whites rear, I tried zero anti squat, my thinking that I could use a little squat with this thing, but I still went back to 1 deg of anti squat and was happy. Usually 2.5 toe, sometimes 3 never 3.5 but I run stock. If you can't drive it with the back end I don't think the mid motor is for you. Shorty back, cut the fore two braces, mainly to giver just a touch of twist and liked that, but my suspension is all carbon. I hate deflection in the towers and arms and knuckles and such. The "good plastic" seems to be a touch heavier, IMO worth it, but only leading to more weight savings to find elsewhere. Shorty servo, does anyone use the futaba shorty servo and how do you like it???? I got the spektrum shorty in there and it's only OK. Front shocks Mid up, out down, rear shocks middle top inside bottom, Inside inside on the front links, with 1mm, kit rear link with 2mm. Proline Ions, MC, Phantom body with Proline wing, 3mm trailing with 1mm on the rack. I never post gearing and timing because I mess with it so much, and you can always ask me at the track and I'll tell you, but it's hardly the same until I have had a car for a long time. When I don't mess up my tyre prep this thing was ridiculous fast. This setup really made the car work for me, and I finally fell in love with it. This car is just stupid fun to drive when it handles right, but I hated it in the face for like 5 or 6 weeks while I worked on figuring it out.

So those are my current thoughts on the car, hopefully useful to the group

One question and sorry if I'm just out of the loop, but no currently available name brand type carbon fiber chassis is available yet, correct?? I really think that's what this car needs to come fully alive, the firm, predictable stable twist of carbon, aluminum thick enough not to twist is just to thick to make a chassis out of, and even with all the braces it twists, and it needs to, just a little to take the nervousness out. This is exactly the time for carbon fiber, hopefully with a stiff and soft option even if we're lucky, but I can't find anything other than some prototypes and handbuilt, right???

vr6cj

iTrader: (124)

a thread on the anti squat

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...at-bit-me.html

Rybeau40

For RM many run 2-2.5 anti-squat and for MM 0-1 is generally the better tuning option. It's how I tuned my rm/mm convertible 22 2.0 with great results. Now that I'm switching to a b5m with no compromises I assume the same tuning applies. The link posted above is a great read for how anti-squat works.

The key that many locals and racers on here have learned is that tuning an mm setup is much different than rm. It's more of a finesse feel vs. rm aggressive feel. Hard for me to explain, but it's how I personally think of the differences. I'm still learning it after years of rm. With my B5m due tomorrow, I'll be learning with a new platform how mm works.

VegasHB

Ummmm no. I respect your opinion as wrong as it is.

Wild Cherry

I use to race stock , but just can't stand slow motors so mod only fer me ...

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

Stock buggy with all the ESC bells and whistles is pretty cheap. Blinky gets expensive fast. That's how stock has always been - expensive and fun. At least you guys get to run 17.5 now instead of 27.5 turns...

Wild Cherry

Personally would not buy all the lite drive & cut gears..


Instead ?

I just punch it....

jswo

Get the X rings, they swell less , last longer and smoothest .

Wild Cherry

Not really that complicated, common sense really.

If you know the track has change ?
Adjust the car to allow for the change.

Most do not and suffer...

Go figure...

However, does take time to learn how to drive a mid .

The old point & shoot style of driving is history.

slappomatt

I am running a reedy mach 1 17.5 with 33/69 and 42degrees and I came off the track at 150 after a full 10 min of laps.

bambambennett

I raced mod locally. Then I decided to run a regional series here in Socal so I switched to stock. I am more competitive for the regional series then I would be in mod but can't stand to run stock locally. Here, the guys in stock seem to think you just keep it pinned and clank through stuff rather than driving with any finesse. I don't run on high wear tracks so tire life is not an issue, however crashes in mod typically break stuff. I decided to run 13.5 in everything now. Best decision. I have lots of power that is manageable. The regional series has a super stock class which is a nice fit. That being said, now I am building a SS stadium truck and looking for a great deal on a LRP X20 13.5.

Wild Cherry

Half worn will steer more cept if dusty.

New tires steer less, not a bad or good thing. Just account for when your tuning.

Hope you have gone to the inline , just do it if you have not Clayton.
Don't make me come up there and show you.
Promise you will put the hurt on Nate with.

Even Scott said yesterday I sure pick up the pace.

Tip

I never practice with my B5, instead over the last 3 weeks been practicing with the B44.
4w takes more ability to drive well & knowing to drive either well makes you far more capable then someone who only runs a 2w.