Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I use nylock/serrated wheel nuts (kit ones), with AE alum hexes and upgraded axles. I have zero issues with my chush tubes, because I dont crank down on my nuts. I have never ever ever lost a nylock wheel nut on a free spinning front hex axle. Why would your nut come loose? no need to crank on it. I am sure if I had no crush tubes at all in the front, I would still be fine.

Mason

I wouldn't worry about it too much. We pumped out a few stock buggy state champs because the guys learn the changes better as they are more pronounced so when they get outdoors they know what to do quickly. The other half of it is those races almost always end up blue grooved so the bite is up and they have more experience with it.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

For me its about track consistency. I can test changes and feel them more and I can hit my marks more often because the track does not drastically change through the heat. If anything, it gets better as the race goes, not worse. Anyway, it has been 105-110 outside, so the 78 deg indoor track temps are very appealing, lol. That alone make it all the money I am dumping into stock to try and stay competitive worth it, lol. We have a biggish race coming up in July, I hope to run the race as my first bigger race in a while. Heck, with 39 17.5 entries, every week feels like a big race, lol.

SAGISI

iTrader: (27)

Just come and see me at the track for setup and how to mount fan. My mid motor 17.5 is untouchable @norcal and gives the mod guys a run for there money.

I actually like less timing on my R1 motors 69/32 with 20* timing

Pittsdriver

iTrader: (11)

I know both of your cars are untouchable. I dunno what it is but I feel like my mid is "sluggish" compared to the rear motor. Not just slower, although it is a tad slower. But ya next time I see you there to check your fan out.

I started with 69/33 and 20 degrees timing, and the temps were pushing almost 180, so I went 72/33, reamed a few holes in the body and the temps were down to 160 which I am fine with, but not super happy with the performance. My rear motor freaking RIPS by comparison I feel like, but I only have 2 races on the mid, so I need much more track time.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

have him take your car for a few laps and give you feedback. If his cars are untouchable, maybe yours can also be that way

BRSracing

iTrader: (67)

The fans may become a norm for the mm and maybe somebody can make some type of adapter to put one against the plastic piece over the motor. maybe even able to use the existing screws on top of the motor brace/watherfall piece.

aeRayls

iTrader: (3)

I cannot roll my eyes enough.... Ugh

SAGISI

iTrader: (27)

My B5m with all the light weight transmission upgrades and fan does feel slower then my b5 rear but lap times, consistency and how easy it is to drive fast outweighs it.

After adding pucks to my car I went back and added 20 grams with the C brass arm mount to add stability to the rear.

Yesterday I had the chance to run the super light weight shorty pack with no setup changes made. Car had the rip of my rear motor and I found myself clearing jumps way easier then with a regular shorty. Car was on edge and I was not hitting consistent lap times. The battery did have noticeable power drop off after the first few minutes. The car can be tuned around this battery but for now I love how balanced my car feels with regular shorty.

Like what Wildcat suggested.. let me drive your car and I can tell you what you need. Also feel free to try out my car.

Pittsdriver

iTrader: (11)

Battery might be a problem too. I do notice a drop about 2-3 minutes in. I would love for you to drive the car and see what you think. Of course I get used to the track layout and it is changing again, so who knows how the cars will behave afterwards lol.

3srcracing

iTrader: (29)

Personally I thought my Mid motor seemed way faster to drive then my rear motor. Took me a little bit but I am almost a full second faster with the the mid motor. Now I"m not as consistent but I am faster.

blingy

iTrader: (6)

I'm running a heartson set up with 1.6 pistons all around white springs all around 30 weight in front 27.5 weight in the rear b5 front tower and arms std locations w/2mm spacer under the c/l and no Ackerman spacer shorty all the way back and speed control back against shorty for the rear alum pivots 3* toe 2 anti squat and alum rear camber block andI have the camber block so the +2 mm is towards the bottom . so I have 3 mm on camber block and hubs I'm in rear holes on the alum hubs and have 2mm under with the 0*facing the shocks .as for the conditions its outdoor watered mid to high as the sun drops ,as for tires I'm running green hybryds(sp)and green groovies there is enough traction i can pull wing dragging wheelies I think that covers my set up and track . thanks for the help guys .

rctinman

I race on a medium to low grip outdoor track someti es dusty. Would moving the rear hubs towards the rear get rid of some of the pendulum effect?

gearit

Can someone tell me which savox servo would work best in the B5M

dnuggett

iTrader: (33)

Why don't you look at the Savox specs and determine which you'd prefer to run?

BTW.. while you are comparing specs, I'd check out other manufacturers to see if Savox is really where you want to be.