Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Its for tuning. The red pads are more aggressive. The White pads have a softer feel. You pick 3 of the 4 and run them. It is/was common for guys in stock to run 1 red pad and 2 whites. Avid has the same pads, but yes The triad comes with 3 white. I prefer the 3 white for 17.5 buggy. For hotter motors or heavier cars/trucks I like to run 1 red and 2 white.

Wild Cherry

You can prove the ball cups are not the problem .
Just pop a ball cup on a stud with out the Ti rod.
Will be smooth as butter.

vwduud

iTrader: (48)

Ah, ok. So if you want to run 3 white pads on the Schelle, you'll need to buy an additional white pad to go with the 2 that it comes with, correct?

vito

happy day I will get my Lunsford ti front axal in the mail. pay day I get my motor a fantom apex 17.5 works motor.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

correct. I like to run my diff loose, so the red pad was causing issue for me. Just remember the slipper needs to slip before the diff slips. I like 3 white pads, you may like 1 red and 2 white. It is a preference thing. But no mater what, the AE slipper are crap and none will ever convince me otherwise. If you just want to "lock" it down, the v2 works. Just crank it down and tighten the diff to prevent slipping. I also the AVID slipper is lighter than either the VTS or v2. So less work for your motor.

3srcracing

iTrader: (29)

The tight ball cup problem is a known problem and has been fixed by many local drivers. Are local Associated driver told us to take the ball cup off the ball stud and polish the ball stud with scotch brite. (might get a few trails and errors to get the desired smoothness). When you pop them on get some needle nose and squeeze the ball cup back and forth (WHEN popped on). This should free up the car and in most case make your car handle better because the suspension was being bound up.

traitor

iTrader: (3)

i just polished my ball studs and cups together with toothpaste and used associated 50wt shock oil on threads when assembling and they are mint now.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

yes, all of this does help. I polished mine with 8 grit and the stud chucked up in my drill. And initially it was really smooth. But it has since tightened up again. I am sure with more time, it will be good. But... I broke a cup racing a couple weeks ago. And needed to replace the stud also. No biggies, but I think you need to polish all of your spare studs ahead of time, lol. because I was bound up again and it was bad. This is why I am going to just get the TLR caps/balls. Readily available, are always smooth and free and they are plenty strong. Sure I have to pop them off to adjust my links, but in all honest, now that I have a setup i like, that will be a very rare occasion. And I have been popping off cups since 86'. I think I can handle it, lol

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

First - did you put new ends on when going to the shorties? I really, really like the regular TLR ends and especially the TLR HD ends. You have to use the thicker turnbuckles with them but they are sweet if you drill a hole for the driver so there's no need to pop them off. That being said, I can only relay my experience to you - I tried the stock 2" turnbuckles first while I waited for ti ones. They bound and were tight. Then I put the shorter turnbuckles on the same ends and they still bound (I figured distorted from the long turnbuckles). Then I put new ends on and they were buttery smooth without any other change. Then I built a B5M with the shorter turnbuckles and they were buttery smooth. Until you, I haven't heard of another person going to the shorter 'buckles and new ends having a binding issue.

Wild Cherry

Problem I see occurring with others is they have a couple two or three tight ball cups right ?

They thread one ball cup a little further then the other . Only have to go three turns more then the other and when they adjust the rod it bottoms out against the cup making a bump inside the cup causing the cup to bind.

Got a tight ball cup ?

You will find a little bump inside that ball cup....replace for a new one.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I never used the 2" rods. I started with the 1 3/4 lunsfords. I have some new and never used ends. The steering link from the servo binds up pretty good also and it does not have a tie rod. and I polished the balls and pinched the cups. I am not really hating, as i love the car. But the squeaking from the binding cups is driving me nuts when I and checking ride height, lol. Yeah, the HD cups and ends would be nice. The tlr rods are too long. I think you would need the super duty lunsfords of the correct length.

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

If mine somehow start to bind, I'll go with the TLR HD as well. But they haven't yet...

Pellefa

Indeed I have the stock B4 lightweight on there for durability... will get shorter ones and new cups! Thanks everyone for your support!

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

These look nice. I like the silver rings at the base to make it look trick.

http://avidrc.com/product/5/accessor...cessories.html

jjwitczak

iTrader: (4)

how come nobody here is talking about the newly released hobbyking's turningy square packs..... they sound so good and is so cheap?! ($60) Now people would be torn apart between turningy AND smc square packs because they cost the same...!?