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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 05-28-2014, 05:46 AM
  #10381  
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Originally Posted by langsky
I have front axles and aluminum hexes from the first batch that was released. I want to install them, but am I going to have issues with them causing the bearings to fail? Do I need to contact AE for different ones?
The axles arent the issue, it was the crush tube. If you havent had issues yet you are most likely fine.
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Old 05-28-2014, 06:53 AM
  #10382  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
The axles arent the issue, it was the crush tube. If you havent had issues yet you are most likely fine.
Are they working on changing the crush tube length? I feel it is more the bearings than the tube. I have never in my 25+ years of racing witnessed bearings fail that quickly. Maybe its the tube that causes the bearings to fail but after one weekend those bearings were terrible. I put some Schelle bearings in now and using the same crush tube so we will see.
Before you put the new axles in replace the bearings too $8 dollar fix.

Matt not trying to undermine what you are saying just reporting my experience
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:27 AM
  #10383  
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Mason

I'm not sure what your track is like , if you have good traction you need to go inline.

The car drives so much better, the kit setup cannot even compare.

Each time I let another racer try my ride they start grinding right after .

No longer telling others to try or test the inline..
Advising & telling them to just do it ..
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:43 AM
  #10384  
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Jake, I have 2 months on my b5. All the the bearings are still smooth. No crunch and none have failed. Not sure why everyone is having fail bearings, but mine are still smooth.
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:51 AM
  #10385  
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Originally Posted by Bubonic-X
Are they working on changing the crush tube length? I feel it is more the bearings than the tube. I have never in my 25+ years of racing witnessed bearings fail that quickly. Maybe its the tube that causes the bearings to fail but after one weekend those bearings were terrible. I put some Schelle bearings in now and using the same crush tube so we will see.
Before you put the new axles in replace the bearings too $8 dollar fix.

Matt not trying to undermine what you are saying just reporting my experience
Jake
Im going off of what Chad posted in the B5 FB page months ago, when he was adding a small shim in addtion to the crush tube. I built my car with Avid bearings from the start and have had 0 issues.
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Old 05-28-2014, 08:01 AM
  #10386  
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I don't see it as a crush tube issue at all. My front bearings are smooth as can be in your hand but feel blown out and gritty when all assembled. Still feel crappy when you take the hex off and there's no load from the wheel nut. I still run em that way, the same ones hat came in my kit. It REALLY bothers me but doesn't bother my results lol...

Both of the other AE drivers in my area have the same issue. One isn't nearly as bad as mine. The one thing that tells me that it isn't a crush tube issue is that they feel gritty when there's no wheel installed or hex on there. I've seen a couple guys change to the 3* trailing inserts and it went away or it severely lessened.

That tells me it's in the plastic steering arm or the plastic inserts themselves.
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Old 05-28-2014, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
I don't see it as a crush tube issue at all. My front bearings are smooth as can be in your hand but feel blown out and gritty when all assembled. Still feel crappy when you take the hex off and there's no load from the wheel nut. I still run em that way, the same ones hat came in my kit. It REALLY bothers me but doesn't bother my results lol...

Both of the other AE drivers in my area have the same issue. One isn't nearly as bad as mine. The one thing that tells me that it isn't a crush tube issue is that they feel gritty when there's no wheel installed or hex on there. I've seen a couple guys change to the 3* trailing inserts and it went away or it severely lessened.

That tells me it's in the plastic steering arm or the plastic inserts themselves.
Yeah, I have run my b5 with the +3 inserts since day 1. Maybe that is why my bearing feel great. My other B5 has AVID bearings and the +4 inserts and still smooth. Maybe, I just lucked out on my configurations
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Old 05-28-2014, 09:29 AM
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Weighed my car this morning and it's a real pig. 1671 grams. Looks like if I were to go to a shorty I would loose 70g plus if I move the ESC back into the battery brace another 10g or so? Man, I'm not sure how you guys get your cars so light!
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Old 05-28-2014, 09:37 AM
  #10389  
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Originally Posted by gticlay
Weighed my car this morning and it's a real pig. 1671 grams. Looks like if I were to go to a shorty I would loose 70g plus if I move the ESC back into the battery brace another 10g or so? Man, I'm not sure how you guys get your cars so light!
most of them are using the 150gram super light shorty. That saves you 50-70g grams over a normal shorty. Then Pucks, alum topshaft, alum pinion, alum screws, shorty servo, slipper eliminator, Ti turnbuckles, Ti front axles and so on. A shorty servo is about 20 grams lighter than a full servo.
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Old 05-28-2014, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
most of them are using the 150gram super light shorty. That saves you 50-70g grams over a normal shorty. Then Pucks, alum topshaft, alum pinion, alum screws, shorty servo, slipper eliminator, Ti turnbuckles, Ti front axles and so on. A shorty servo is about 20 grams lighter than a full servo.
I have ti turnbuckles, screw kit, front axles, and upper shock mounts. Also aluminum top shaft and Schelle slipper so I thought I would be "moar closer" than I am. Thought it might be 1550 with a shorty but I guess not!
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Old 05-28-2014, 11:20 AM
  #10391  
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Maybe try lighter shock oil?

On another note, what motor do you have? What about esc? Also your body may be pretty heavy depending on how thick the paint is.
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Old 05-28-2014, 11:27 AM
  #10392  
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Originally Posted by gticlay
I have ti turnbuckles, screw kit, front axles, and upper shock mounts. Also aluminum top shaft and Schelle slipper so I thought I would be "moar closer" than I am. Thought it might be 1550 with a shorty but I guess not!
the 120g battery savings and the ~20grams saving with a shorty servo can be 170 grams of savings. Plus, I think someone said 15-18g or so for the Pucks. That is around 150grams of weight saved. Also, some guys are switching to Ti ball studs with TLR 22 cups. The cups are more free than the AE ones and lighter. Plus the Ti studs are lighter than the sc10 4x4 studs the B5 uses. I plan to convert my b5 to the TLR cups/balls, just because i am getting tires of sanding and polishing non stop, lol.
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Old 05-28-2014, 12:16 PM
  #10393  
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Default 1500 Gram Setup Sheet

Looks like more and more of us are discovering how to get our buggies down to the 1500g range. Would be nice to have some setup sheets or just some general pointers from those who have already gone thru the process.
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Old 05-28-2014, 12:16 PM
  #10394  
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dup
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Old 05-28-2014, 12:17 PM
  #10395  
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Originally Posted by gticlay
Weighed my car this morning and it's a real pig. 1671 grams. Looks like if I were to go to a shorty I would loose 70g plus if I move the ESC back into the battery brace another 10g or so? Man, I'm not sure how you guys get your cars so light!
No brain er ..

14 grams off just from grinding tray & water fall.

Then if your clever ? Use that new a Reedy 14 grade thin wire & even more weight savings for free...

I believe were talkN about a savings in the 1 oz range.

You get those alloy hubs yet ? Lol
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