137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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05-16-2014, 10:39 AM
#9976
05-16-2014, 11:02 AM
#9977
It's pretty well established that the RM arm mod is 2mm forward.
05-16-2014, 11:55 AM
#9978
Guys over in the rear motor thread have been talking about raising the front hubs, figured I would share over here as well. Used a technique that Luke Smith used on his Centro to raise the hub 1mm. If you were looking for a basically free way to try out the raised hub here is the way to do it. If you dont like it then move the 1mm spacer to the top and you have the original hub position.
05-16-2014, 12:03 PM
#9979
offset bushings.. where the hell was the 8th AE spamletter this week about these being released??
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91403/
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91403/
05-16-2014, 12:16 PM
#9980
offset bushings.. where the hell was the 8th AE spamletter this week about these being released??
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91403/
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91403/
05-16-2014, 12:27 PM
#9981
Does anyone else have other cooling mods they've done?
One's i'm currently aware of are the motor band mounted fan, waterfall mod/mount.
Anyone doing scoops or vent holes on the body? gator teething or shimming the gear cover?
My motors currently are running okay. I've been thinking about helping that out a bit in the future but I'm currently mired with a heck of a time keeping my tekin rs cool. It has the latest software (i believe) and I'm in blinky mode with some wimpy mod motors (10.5/13.5). We use a lot of heavy brakes on the currently layout and I'm sure some of that is the problem for the regular RS. Unfortunately with the 10.5 (same elec setup as my previous B4 and never had an issue like this) i've been between 23/81 and 27/81 with very little speedo change (170F!) so I've dropped to a 13.5 thinking maybe something is wrong with the motor and it has not gone down much. Can't drop the gear on it much more either as the 17.5s nearly walk me down the front straight now! Transmission seems okay but I guess I need to take it apart and verify.
So let's see some of your ideas!
One's i'm currently aware of are the motor band mounted fan, waterfall mod/mount.
Anyone doing scoops or vent holes on the body? gator teething or shimming the gear cover?
My motors currently are running okay. I've been thinking about helping that out a bit in the future but I'm currently mired with a heck of a time keeping my tekin rs cool. It has the latest software (i believe) and I'm in blinky mode with some wimpy mod motors (10.5/13.5). We use a lot of heavy brakes on the currently layout and I'm sure some of that is the problem for the regular RS. Unfortunately with the 10.5 (same elec setup as my previous B4 and never had an issue like this) i've been between 23/81 and 27/81 with very little speedo change (170F!) so I've dropped to a 13.5 thinking maybe something is wrong with the motor and it has not gone down much. Can't drop the gear on it much more either as the 17.5s nearly walk me down the front straight now! Transmission seems okay but I guess I need to take it apart and verify.
So let's see some of your ideas!
05-16-2014, 03:23 PM
#9982
Hey Guys,
Is anyone having issues when building their shocks that the top o-ring that sits under the top cap is bulging when you tighten down the shock cap? I've managed to get 2 together by poking the damn thing back in at the same time as tightening the cap down but there must be a better way? It makes building consistent hardness shocks difficult also
Any tips appreciated.
Is anyone having issues when building their shocks that the top o-ring that sits under the top cap is bulging when you tighten down the shock cap? I've managed to get 2 together by poking the damn thing back in at the same time as tightening the cap down but there must be a better way? It makes building consistent hardness shocks difficult also
Any tips appreciated.
05-16-2014, 03:53 PM
#9984
Tech Adept
Hey Guys,
Is anyone having issues when building their shocks that the top o-ring that sits under the top cap is bulging when you tighten down the shock cap? I've managed to get 2 together by poking the damn thing back in at the same time as tightening the cap down but there must be a better way? It makes building consistent hardness shocks difficult also Any tips appreciated.
Is anyone having issues when building their shocks that the top o-ring that sits under the top cap is bulging when you tighten down the shock cap? I've managed to get 2 together by poking the damn thing back in at the same time as tightening the cap down but there must be a better way? It makes building consistent hardness shocks difficult also
Any tips appreciated.Maybe mixed them up with the ones that go in the shock collars or got something on them that would cause them to swell?
05-16-2014, 04:34 PM
#9986
Does anyone else have other cooling mods they've done?
One's i'm currently aware of are the motor band mounted fan, waterfall mod/mount.
Anyone doing scoops or vent holes on the body? gator teething or shimming the gear cover?
My motors currently are running okay. I've been thinking about helping that out a bit in the future but I'm currently mired with a heck of a time keeping my tekin rs cool. It has the latest software (i believe) and I'm in blinky mode with some wimpy mod motors (10.5/13.5). We use a lot of heavy brakes on the currently layout and I'm sure some of that is the problem for the regular RS. Unfortunately with the 10.5 (same elec setup as my previous B4 and never had an issue like this) i've been between 23/81 and 27/81 with very little speedo change (170F!) so I've dropped to a 13.5 thinking maybe something is wrong with the motor and it has not gone down much. Can't drop the gear on it much more either as the 17.5s nearly walk me down the front straight now! Transmission seems okay but I guess I need to take it apart and verify.
So let's see some of your ideas!
One's i'm currently aware of are the motor band mounted fan, waterfall mod/mount.
Anyone doing scoops or vent holes on the body? gator teething or shimming the gear cover?
My motors currently are running okay. I've been thinking about helping that out a bit in the future but I'm currently mired with a heck of a time keeping my tekin rs cool. It has the latest software (i believe) and I'm in blinky mode with some wimpy mod motors (10.5/13.5). We use a lot of heavy brakes on the currently layout and I'm sure some of that is the problem for the regular RS. Unfortunately with the 10.5 (same elec setup as my previous B4 and never had an issue like this) i've been between 23/81 and 27/81 with very little speedo change (170F!) so I've dropped to a 13.5 thinking maybe something is wrong with the motor and it has not gone down much. Can't drop the gear on it much more either as the 17.5s nearly walk me down the front straight now! Transmission seems okay but I guess I need to take it apart and verify.
So let's see some of your ideas!
05-16-2014, 05:28 PM
#9987
iam up to the diff now in the bilud
05-16-2014, 05:44 PM
#9988
Tech Regular
I drove a car with long front and rear links this weekend and it turned on a dime while on power. It also had the +2 trailing insert in also. But the suspension really leaned in the corners making the car turn hard. I run short links and I am undecided which I like better. I plani to do more testing indoors on medium bite since i have 2 b5. Run them both back to back with the same tires. One with shorter links and one with longer and +2 inserts. The car was also using the 30 deg kick
