Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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#9751
Tech Rookie
I have a Savox 1258TG servo. Which servo horn do I use - A, F, H or J?
#9752
Tech Rookie
I believe the savox is futaba type so "F"
#9754
what weights are you all coming in at? im at 1594 with the stock body, shorty, extra wire, and rear aluminum ballstud mount
#9755
#9758
Tech Apprentice
Most of the guys that are replacing plastics are trying the hard composite stuff. From what I know these pieces have less flex than the standard plastics. So with that said they have a greater chance of snapping in wrecks. From what I heard from some of the guys running them is that it allows for the suspension and all the mechanical parts to do their job rather than some of it being soaked up in flex. I personally have only ran the stock plastics and setup and had a few rough tumbles due to high speed traction rolls coming off the straight into a table jump. The worst that has happened was a bent turnbuckle. I am still using the stock ones which are not very durable. Most guys switch over to the lunsford ones (still waiting for backorder).
Thx
racer
#9761
#9763
I eventually want to race this in stock, so would this list be a decent start?
Mip top shaft
Mip pucks
Shaved gears
Nova slipper
Ceramic tranny bearings
No bearing shields
Titanium front axles and tierods
Mixed in titanium and aluminum screws
Hobbywing extreme stock esc, very light and great in stock
Ceramic motor bearings
Mip top shaft
Mip pucks
Shaved gears
Nova slipper
Ceramic tranny bearings
No bearing shields
Titanium front axles and tierods
Mixed in titanium and aluminum screws
Hobbywing extreme stock esc, very light and great in stock
Ceramic motor bearings
#9764
I have one on preorder from Amain because it's cheaper than AE. I almost just want to order the kit. I feel like having the mid conversion kit is a good value but then if I want only the mid, I have a bunch of useless spare parts...