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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 05-12-2014, 08:39 AM
  #9706  
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Just decided to order a B5M.
And now I am reading in this thread that it seems it is not as robust / durable as the competitors (TLR 22 v2, RB6). A few pages before people report that plastic breaks without big crashed and on page 280 somebody mentioned that he changes kit plastic parts by hard plastic, because of durability.

Tell me the truth - what is your experience in terms of stability / durability?

Thx
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Old 05-12-2014, 08:56 AM
  #9707  
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Originally Posted by racer_hh
Just decided to order a B5M.
And now I am reading in this thread that it seems it is not as robust / durable as the competitors (TLR 22 v2, RB6). A few pages before people report that plastic breaks without big crashed and on page 280 somebody mentioned that he changes kit plastic parts by hard plastic, because of durability.

Tell me the truth - what is your experience in terms of stability / durability?

Thx
Had mine 2+ months and haven't broken a thing, and I crash more than I like.
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:06 AM
  #9708  
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Originally Posted by splking1
What hole location are you using with the alloy hubs?
numbers facing towards the rear shock
Inside hole on hub, 3mm under ball stud..
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:07 AM
  #9709  
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Most durable 1/10 buggy from associated... I feel ever.
Also had several b4's and RM 22 and MM 22.
Only thing I have had to replace is the stock wing after too many rubber side up landings.
Great buggy period.
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:11 AM
  #9710  
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that buggy must have a shit ton of steering

Last edited by knucklehead459; 05-12-2014 at 11:04 AM.
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:32 AM
  #9711  
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For those who went with the aluminum rear hubs, how do you like them?
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
numbers facing towards the rear shock
Inside hole on hub, 3mm under ball stud..
You using the front or rear holes
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:15 AM
  #9713  
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Closest inside hole on hub if looking at hub mounted on car looking from above.
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:44 AM
  #9714  
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Only part I broke on either of my cars B5 and B5m was a faulty ball cup on my B5 and that lasted a monah before it finally popped off! Haven't had any breaking issues period! Nothing like the b4.2! Hitting poles head on and having crazy crashes will break any car! If your a decent driver you will not not break very many parts!
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Old 05-12-2014, 12:22 PM
  #9715  
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With this inline mod wouldn't it be better to have esc up front and battery all the way back? If you have a shorty servo it will fit. It wouldn't work that way with a normal size servo.
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Old 05-12-2014, 12:55 PM
  #9716  
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2 months, I haven't broke a thing.
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Old 05-12-2014, 01:07 PM
  #9717  
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Good to get positive feedback regarding durability. Who has experience in competition against RB6 or TLR22v2 or TeamC TM2v2 on carpet / astro tracks?
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Old 05-12-2014, 01:22 PM
  #9718  
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Originally Posted by splking1
With this inline mod wouldn't it be better to have esc up front and battery all the way back? If you have a shorty servo it will fit. It wouldn't work that way with a normal size servo.
if you cut the waterfall for the battery to go back to the motor there looks to be room with a normal servo.
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Old 05-12-2014, 01:28 PM
  #9719  
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I have normal sized servo in standard configuration (with tekin rs gen 2 & Futaba 614fs rx). I didn't even consider it a tight fit. ?

That said, I like the idea of the inline setup, but as the guy above commented, seems like the battery running closest to the motor would be more ideal for weigh distribution in the mid-motor car.
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Old 05-12-2014, 01:30 PM
  #9720  
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Originally Posted by Jake S
if you cut the waterfall for the battery to go back to the motor there looks to be room with a normal servo.
Thats exactly what I was thinking. Seems to me like the best way to go about running a shorty pack inline.
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