Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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#9572
I'm thinking about getting some front axles and top shaft myself.
#9573
also my old cars go on the shelf because I wouldn't unleash that amount of abuse on some one else lol.
#9574
#9575
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
The things I like are:
- lunsfords ~30 (mod and stock)
- Avid Slipper ~30 (mod and stock)
- Alum top shaft ~15 (mod and stock)
- alum rear camber block ~18 (mod and stock)
- alum rear bone (tlr22) ~18 (stock only)
- Avid revolution bearings ~25 (mod and stock)
so about $136. Now that I am pricing it out......maybe I should buy less stuff....For mod the stock top shaft is probably fine, but for stock I found it was not terrible free and cause extra heat. And for mod I could just use the vts I guess. so in the 50-136 dollar range for me. I dont go stupid on upgrades. I got over that finally in the past 2 years. For a very very long time I was an upgrade crazed fool. But i finally got it...most of these upgrades are useless for mod . stock....well its a money sink, but I refuse to go all in (pucks, cut gears, replace batterys and motors every 4 weeks)... unless I get really good and goto nats and have a shot at doing well.
#9577
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
too much. I try to keep it minimal for stock racing and barely anything additional for mod.
The things I like are:
- lunsfords ~30 (mod and stock)
- Avid Slipper ~30 (mod and stock)
- Alum top shaft ~15 (mod and stock)
- alum rear camber block ~18 (mod and stock)
- alum rear bone (tlr22) ~18 (stock only)
- Avid revolution bearings ~25 (mod and stock)
so about $136. Now that I am pricing it out......maybe I should buy less stuff....For mod the stock top shaft is probably fine, but for stock I found it was not terrible free and cause extra heat. And for mod I could just use the vts I guess. so in the 50-136 dollar range for me. I dont go stupid on upgrades. I got over that finally in the past 2 years. For a very very long time I was an upgrade crazed fool. But i finally got it...most of these upgrades are useless for mod . stock....well its a money sink, but I refuse to go all in (pucks, cut gears, replace batterys and motors every 4 weeks)... unless I get really good and goto nats and have a shot at doing well.
The things I like are:
- lunsfords ~30 (mod and stock)
- Avid Slipper ~30 (mod and stock)
- Alum top shaft ~15 (mod and stock)
- alum rear camber block ~18 (mod and stock)
- alum rear bone (tlr22) ~18 (stock only)
- Avid revolution bearings ~25 (mod and stock)
so about $136. Now that I am pricing it out......maybe I should buy less stuff....For mod the stock top shaft is probably fine, but for stock I found it was not terrible free and cause extra heat. And for mod I could just use the vts I guess. so in the 50-136 dollar range for me. I dont go stupid on upgrades. I got over that finally in the past 2 years. For a very very long time I was an upgrade crazed fool. But i finally got it...most of these upgrades are useless for mod . stock....well its a money sink, but I refuse to go all in (pucks, cut gears, replace batterys and motors every 4 weeks)... unless I get really good and goto nats and have a shot at doing well.
#9579
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
The machined topshaft just seems to be smoother. Meaning, when I spin the spur with my fingers I get more revolutions and it much more free. I assume this is because its machined and not because its alum. Durability wise, the alum top shaft seems to hold up fine in mod. Also, my tranny seems quieter and I just dislike loud trannies. I would not say its required for mod. The "smoothness" does seem to help with temps in stock, which is very nice. Essential upgrades for mod? Well, the alum rear camber block for durability and IMO the titanium turnbuckles. Although I see sponsored guys and some fast guys running the steel. But the steel bend pretty easy. IMO nothing else is "required", I dislike DNFs so I upgrade anything that is "weak". For the MM car the rear camber block is the only "weak" part and it is not overly weak. I see lots of guys using the kit plastic one without issues. As for bearings, you can also replace as needed. the beefy rear bearing are unlikely to explode like the ones on the b4 and the front will get gritty, but probably wont cause a DNF. But I like to have spare front wheel bearing so I normally pickup a 10 pack of front wheel bearing from AVID. Kyosho and TLR use the same front bearing, so if you ever switch brands, they are usable on other cars.
#9580
#9581
So being that this is my first experience with a brushless system, I have a couple of questions about the ESC:
1) I hooked everything up last night so I could start the diff break-in process and noticed that the ESC fan spun quietly for the first minute or so, but after that the RPMs really climbed and you could really hear a whirring noise coming from it. This was with the electronics just turned on... no applying the throttle or wheel. Is this normal?
2) Do I even need the ESC fan if I plan to run stock?
1) I hooked everything up last night so I could start the diff break-in process and noticed that the ESC fan spun quietly for the first minute or so, but after that the RPMs really climbed and you could really hear a whirring noise coming from it. This was with the electronics just turned on... no applying the throttle or wheel. Is this normal?
2) Do I even need the ESC fan if I plan to run stock?
#9582
Tech Champion
iTrader: (170)
So being that this is my first experience with a brushless system, I have a couple of questions about the ESC:
1) I hooked everything up last night so I could start the diff break-in process and noticed that the ESC fan spun quietly for the first minute or so, but after that the RPMs really climbed and you could really hear a whirring noise coming from it. This was with the electronics just turned on... no applying the throttle or wheel. Is this normal?
2) Do I even need the ESC fan if I plan to run stock?
1) I hooked everything up last night so I could start the diff break-in process and noticed that the ESC fan spun quietly for the first minute or so, but after that the RPMs really climbed and you could really hear a whirring noise coming from it. This was with the electronics just turned on... no applying the throttle or wheel. Is this normal?
2) Do I even need the ESC fan if I plan to run stock?
2) Most likely no. But keep an eye on temps to be careful.