137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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05-08-2014, 10:48 AM
#9496
Tech Adept
I wish I could practice. Wednesday night racing is all I get. I might suck less if I had more than 3 packs of practice a week. My daughter will be joining yours in novice in a few weeks. Maybe they will have enough for a kids class. GL tuning that ball diff. I know the mod guys are pulling wheelies and traction rolling with the ball diff, so it can be done. They do run more weight though. Do you run the brass suspension holders?
Yeah they need more kids. I feel bad when my daughter has to run in the novice class. She is getting better but will be good to see more kids.
I'm running the aluminum braces not brass. Once I think the dif is set I'll try moving the battery back some. I'm running it all the way forward
05-08-2014, 10:56 AM
#9497
Yep... did all that. Cleaned with dish soap and warm water. Let it dry for a few hours before starting tape/paint. It dried for over 24 hours before I even started trimming and I didn't apply the stickers and Velcro strips for another couple of days. I used Tamiya cans to paint with very light coats. Probably about 4-5 coats of each color when it was all said and done.
I know I touched the inside a bit when applying the masking tape, so I wonder if that is part of the issue. I have never masked a body before and always just painted solid colors, so this is probably the problem.
I know I touched the inside a bit when applying the masking tape, so I wonder if that is part of the issue. I have never masked a body before and always just painted solid colors, so this is probably the problem.
05-08-2014, 11:38 AM
#9498
I'm in the process of installing the aluminum C & D rear hinge pin holders. I'm using a 3.5/1 in the C holder. The D holder has me a little confused and there are no instructions. There are Left/Right arrows on these blocks. If the arrows are pointing away from each other/toward their respective hubs, it looks like it increases the rear toe in. If the arrows are pointed towards each other, it looks is decreases the toe in. But by how much? If I'm running 3.5 toe on the C block and position the D blocks pointing away from each other, how much total toe in am I running. It looks like a crap load, as in greater than 4 
.
.The arrows on the D inserts point at each other.
05-08-2014, 01:22 PM
#9500
Tech Adept
Yeah I tried that didn't work so well. I'm running the shorty packs that are 155 grams plus my car is lighten up big time in front. I had to add eight grams to the nose already
05-08-2014, 01:35 PM
#9501
Tech Adept
Have u concidered the brass arm mounts then? Will add more weight and down low where u want it
05-08-2014, 01:49 PM
#9502
Tech Initiate
If you do that I would love to know what else you changed to get rid of the insane on power push.
05-08-2014, 01:55 PM
#9503
Tech Initiate
First time out
Enjoyed the new car my first time out money well spent! Ended up moving the battery forward to get some more on power steering. Seemed to help quite a bit without sacrificing rear end traction. If you are having issue with grip with the rear end try different tire/compound go slightly softer. I've been using gold dirt webs all around and the thing is glued to our track at A Main. My lap times weren't super amazing due to brand new layout but I can tell you it is way easier to drive than my 22 2.0. The B5m just seems so tame right out of box with very minor changes.
05-08-2014, 02:34 PM
#9504
hah, only 8 grams. I have 14 grams under the rack of my RM car just to keep from doing wheelies. Yeah, I remember that you had issues pushing after you went super light. You are/were under 1500 gram if I remember correctly. Have you tried a heaver battery? one of the 200 gram ones? I cant drive a super light car myself. I think my RM is like 1535 grams. I would assume your loss of traction is the weight you lost in the rear. Maybe even the increase acceleration due to less rotating mass. if you dont want to add weight in the rear, then moving the pack back is probably best or get the brass holders
05-08-2014, 02:46 PM
#9505
i had amazing grip with b5r front arms, b5r front tower, and b5r rear arms reversed left/right tonight. now i just need to keep my pistons from blowing out the eclips.
is anyone shimming the 'space' out of the stock pistons? i tried this -- but i think i over did it as 3 of 4 blew the eclip right off tonight ..
is anyone shimming the 'space' out of the stock pistons? i tried this -- but i think i over did it as 3 of 4 blew the eclip right off tonight ..
05-08-2014, 03:38 PM
#9507
i had amazing grip with b5r front arms, b5r front tower, and b5r rear arms reversed left/right tonight. now i just need to keep my pistons from blowing out the eclips.
is anyone shimming the 'space' out of the stock pistons? i tried this -- but i think i over did it as 3 of 4 blew the eclip right off tonight ..
is anyone shimming the 'space' out of the stock pistons? i tried this -- but i think i over did it as 3 of 4 blew the eclip right off tonight ..
05-08-2014, 04:27 PM
#9509
its been nearly 20 years since i seriously tried (i'm awaiting the jokes..) to race 2wd buggy. i gotta say it is a lot of fun. my b5m is more than 1/2 second faster than my b4.2 --- just got to get it to survive the entire night. i was happy to see i could move my shorty pack forward a bit too without massive loss of rear bite.
05-08-2014, 05:33 PM
#9510
Just got here, putting the hard rear arm & tower now.
I never even started with the kit plastic on the front .
Also the
Hard plastic is proving to be popular with some of my other team mates.
Thus why I'm adding the rear tonight.
On higher traction the Harder plastic car is more consistent & preditable when hammering the corners.
BTW
Only race mod , can't stand slow motors...lol