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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 05-08-2014, 08:48 AM
  #9481  
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Originally Posted by vito
on the ball cups take a dill bit 7 64 to opend the up and run a tap down them to?


Tip

Use the Lunsford Ti rods & a fresh set of cups..
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Old 05-08-2014, 08:50 AM
  #9482  
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Originally Posted by vito
time to drive
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Old 05-08-2014, 08:50 AM
  #9483  
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Hi all just ordered a m for carpet use also ordered a gear diff anything else i need to order right away and suggestions for different setup from book settings for carpet? i'm fairly new to rc racing so not looking for the sharpest setup. Thanks for any replys
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Old 05-08-2014, 08:52 AM
  #9484  
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Just put in my mip puck system last night. Was kinda bummed but my lap times were down compared to my gear dif. Going to give it some more time before I put my gear dif back in. I'm running 17.5 class

Last edited by splking1; 05-08-2014 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 05-08-2014, 08:57 AM
  #9485  
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Originally Posted by splking1
Just put in my mip puck system last night. Was kinda bummed but my lap times were down compared to my gear dif. Going to give it some more time before I put my gear dog back in. I'm running 17.5 class
Did you run w3 last night? How did you do?
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:09 AM
  #9486  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
NO spaghetti !!!!

did not bury the sensor wire
Felt its something you need to change easy because the wire can fail at worst time.

Facing car

Esc middle, reciever on left, cap on the right of Esc

Put servo wire in front of receiver & ant on left side of receiver.
Switch on right back corner of servo
Agree. Found this picture with the same equipment as I'm using:
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:45 AM
  #9487  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Did you run w3 last night? How did you do?
Yeah I was in the 17.5 b main.
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:56 AM
  #9488  
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Originally Posted by splking1
Yeah I was in the 17.5 b main.
NM, lol. I assume RM since your in the RM thread, but you also have a MM? Were you the black car with gold windows? What didnt you like about the pucks? Too light in the rear?
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:02 AM
  #9489  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
NM, lol. I assume RM since your in the RM thread, but you also have a MM? Were you the black car with gold windows? What didnt you like about the pucks? Too light in the rear?
My bad was posting from my phone. It's in my mid motor car. I'll post over there. My rear motor still has stock dif. The hook up in the rear just wasn't there. Going to tighten it down some more to see if that helps
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:04 AM
  #9490  
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Had posted this in the rear thread. Wrong thread. This was in my mid motor car

Just put in my mip puck system last night. Was kinda bummed but my lap times were down compared to my gear dif. Going to give it some more time before I put my gear dif back in. I'm running 17.5 class
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:10 AM
  #9491  
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Originally Posted by splking1
Had posted this in the rear thread. Wrong thread. This was in my mid motor car

Just put in my mip puck system last night. Was kinda bummed but my lap times were down compared to my gear dif. Going to give it some more time before I put my gear dif back in. I'm running 17.5 class

I thought your car looked pretty good. There was another b5m at the track that looked terrible. no rear bite at all. Going from the gear and steel bones, to the pucks is going to take some weight out of the rear of the car. So you might want to take that into consideration. Also, how tight are you running the ball diff?

I might be picking up a MM b5 soon to play with. Did the pucks help much with motor temps? that would be the main reason I pick some up.
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:13 AM
  #9492  
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Originally Posted by DropPass
More paint woes...

So is it suggested to "rough up" the body before paint? I have never done this and have never had any issues with paint peeling until now. Last night I was mounting the body onto the car. I push a little on one of the flared sides and noticed the paint peeled right under that spot. Upon closer inspection, I also noticed that the paint is peeling under the Velcro strips I use to mount the body.

I cleaned the body prior to painting as suggested and used polycarbonate paint so don't know what's going on. Maybe the B5 body just knows that I don't care for the cab forward design so it's rebelling!

The paint looks like it has some serious crashes on it already and I haven't even run the car yet! Sad!
Dont rough up body. Wash with sponge and soap and water before painting, let it dry fully (i use a microfiber cloth to dry it off). I use tamiya spray cans, just light coats. Let it dry for a full 24 hours before applying velcro on inside or mounting it.

I dont know how you cleaned it but sponge, dish soap, and warm water work best. Dont touch the inside after cleaning, all hands are oily.
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:15 AM
  #9493  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I thought your car looked pretty good. There was another b5m at the track that looked terrible. no rear bite at all. Going from the gear and steel bones, to the pucks is going to take some weight out of the rear of the car. So you might want to take that into consideration. Also, how tight are you running the ball diff?

I might be picking up a MM b5 soon to play with. Did the pucks help much with motor temps? that would be the main reason I pick some up.
Thanks man. Yeah it was lose. I'm going to tighten it up some today and practice. Just want to get my lap times back down.

As for temp. It ran about 10 degree cooler than the gear dif.
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:22 AM
  #9494  
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Originally Posted by splking1
Thanks man. Yeah it was lose. I'm going to tighten it up some today and practice. Just want to get my lap times back down.

As for temp. It ran about 10 degree cooler than the gear dif.
I wish I could practice. Wednesday night racing is all I get. I might suck less if I had more than 3 packs of practice a week. My daughter will be joining yours in novice in a few weeks. Maybe they will have enough for a kids class. GL tuning that ball diff. I know the mod guys are pulling wheelies and traction rolling with the ball diff, so it can be done. They do run more weight though. Do you run the brass suspension holders?
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:41 AM
  #9495  
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Originally Posted by uclabruins89
Dont rough up body. Wash with sponge and soap and water before painting, let it dry fully (i use a microfiber cloth to dry it off). I use tamiya spray cans, just light coats. Let it dry for a full 24 hours before applying velcro on inside or mounting it.

I dont know how you cleaned it but sponge, dish soap, and warm water work best. Dont touch the inside after cleaning, all hands are oily.
Yep... did all that. Cleaned with dish soap and warm water. Let it dry for a few hours before starting tape/paint. It dried for over 24 hours before I even started trimming and I didn't apply the stickers and Velcro strips for another couple of days. I used Tamiya cans to paint with very light coats. Probably about 4-5 coats of each color when it was all said and done.

I know I touched the inside a bit when applying the masking tape, so I wonder if that is part of the issue. I have never masked a body before and always just painted solid colors, so this is probably the problem.
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