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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 05-07-2014, 08:57 AM
  #9436  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
the rear alum camber link would be good for durability. In the past it has appeared to be a little weak.
Originally Posted by Micah123
Think you got it right to first concentrate on your driving skills. Once you start competing with the other drivers in your class you can get an aluminum top shaft, mip puck system, slipper eliminator. This car is great right out of the box. I would build it per the manual before doing anything. Get used to the stock setup first so you can compare any changes to stock when you make them. You made the right decision with this model. Super strong and drives great. Enjoy the build and good racing to you.
Thank you for the information. Could I get a link for alum camber link and the slipper eliminator?
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:00 AM
  #9437  
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Originally Posted by djhSPAWN
Thank you for the information. Could I get a link for alum camber link and the slipper eliminator?
you can get what ever you want. personally I would hold off on the slipper eliminator. I know a lot of people that dislike it. If you want to shed rotating mass, then I would get the AVID Triad slipper. The stock slipper is pretty heavy for 17.5. And temps could be an issue in 17.5
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:15 AM
  #9438  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
you can get what ever you want. personally I would hold off on the slipper eliminator. I know a lot of people that dislike it. If you want to shed rotating mass, then I would get the AVID Triad slipper. The stock slipper is pretty heavy for 17.5. And temps could be an issue in 17.5
Awesome, thanks for the information.
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:26 AM
  #9439  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I know Cherry said his kit has the updated crush tubes up front. Can anyone else confirm? Are they available separately yet in the updated form? I have some interesting behavior in my front hubs and I am thinking it might be the crush tubes.
I noticed my front inserts for trailing have a lot of play in them. I just thought it was legendary A.E. slop. Is there a fix for this?
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:41 AM
  #9440  
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the plastic +2,3,4 insert? Yeah its AE slop. It much less with the hard inserts and hubs up front. Something is amiss with my axles. one goes back and forth ~1mm and the other is perfect. No binding, bearing still smooth. Either the axle is too long or the crush tubes are different sizes. I might pull it apart tonight and check the sized with my calipers. But I know AE was working on revised crush tubes, gear cover and wing mounts. No idea on the status of these updates though
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:58 AM
  #9441  
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Originally Posted by Jaz406
I noticed my front inserts for trailing have a lot of play in them. I just thought it was legendary A.E. slop. Is there a fix for this?
Maybe you missed installing the set screw's on the bottom of the caster blocks ?

Should have zero slop. B5 is the tightest ride I have ever built.
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:17 AM
  #9442  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Maybe you missed installing the set screw's on the bottom of the caster blocks ?

Should have zero slop. B5 is the tightest ride I have ever built.
I think he means the insert the bearing sits in. Some are really, really loose. Skip to 4:20 and you'll see what I mean.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:38 AM
  #9443  
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GTI

No slop with the Hard front inserts , mine are tight & smooth.

Perhaps its just one if the bugs Ae works out as production rolls along.


If I had slop on the part as in the video would look into a replacement.
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by k1ller rc
Ive been watching on the wing debate. I Took a pair of 4-40 Scoket head screws(I think 1/2 in) Ground off the nubs on the wing mount, drilled a 2.5mm hole, ran the socket head screws up from the bottom. Then used a standard set of thumb screws, which seat perfectly snug in the holes and prevents the wing from moving. And provides a easy on/off installation of the wing.
Hope this helps.
Jconcepts and Exotek sell a smooth wing button that works the same way. Just use a countersunk screw and it will fit flush with the wing button
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:56 AM
  #9445  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
the plastic +2,3,4 insert? Yeah its AE slop. It much less with the hard inserts and hubs up front. Something is amiss with my axles. one goes back and forth ~1mm and the other is perfect. No binding, bearing still smooth. Either the axle is too long or the crush tubes are different sizes. I might pull it apart tonight and check the sized with my calipers. But I know AE was working on revised crush tubes, gear cover and wing mounts. No idea on the status of these updates though
yes the slop is from the plastic trailing arm (2,3) insert. I noticed after 1 st race night. That is my only complaint with the cars quality.
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:03 AM
  #9446  
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Leigh
Use the hard inserts no slop it also helps with the crush tube issue. Alot of people are so anal with the tiniest issues im noticing. when you spin the bearings they do feel rocky gritty.
When you mount the wheel and tighten it down my wheel spins forever. Its the same way for people and the diff. It feels gritty when you spin it in your hand. But when you install it and spin the diff back and forth with the wheels on it feels like butta.
Im not saying you shouldnt worry about it but you all need to relax a little and just keep a eye on those issues.
really ask yourself can you really feel any of that when your drive it? Maybe its just me
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by djhSPAWN
Thank you for the information. Could I get a link for alum camber link and the slipper eliminator?
Here you go. http://www.exotekracing.com/

Heard different opinions on eliminator. I run a tight slipper anyway so I was used to controlling things with my trigger finger. Definitely an item you can wait on until you have a chance to practice some more. FYI, I had tightened my stock slipper to the max to emulate an eliminator but still had the associated weight of a slipper. Normally, you want to back off the throttle when landing with a tight slipper or eliminator but I have not had a problem stripping idler gears to date. The 17.5 does not have the torque of my 7.5 (strip idler gears frequently on my sc10) so probably not so critical to be off the throttle on landings.
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:15 AM
  #9448  
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Originally Posted by Bubonic-X
Leigh
Use the hard inserts no slop it also helps with the crush tube issue. Alot of people are so anal with the tiniest issues im noticing. when you spin the bearings they do feel rocky gritty.
When you mount the wheel and tighten it down my wheel spins forever. Its the same way for people and the diff. It feels gritty when you spin it in your hand. But when you install it and spin the diff back and forth with the wheels on it feels like butta.
Im not saying you shouldnt worry about it but you all need to relax a little and just keep a eye on those issues.
really ask yourself can you really feel any of that when your drive it? Maybe its just me
I dont have any grit in my bearings. The axle just moves in and out 1mm. Just being anal. I will probably just shim it once i get some shims. The only things I really want are the 3x8 grub screws for the rear hubs and maybe updated wing mounts. But maybe I will like my wing mod better and stay with it. I put a couple 3x10mm button screws in the rear hubs to see how much it would help. It was pretty impressive. I lost 90% of my dynamic toe adjustment The front of the car is pretty good. a little slop with the front inserts, but nothing I care to fix. I pretty much have my car tuned the way I want it for now. So I am just going back and being anal about a few things


You going to w3 tonight? I will be there, hopefully 1000000000000 people dont sign up and keep me up all night, lol. W3 can get crazy sometimes, and the invert is this weekend.
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:23 AM
  #9449  
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Originally Posted by Micah123
Here you go. http://www.exotekracing.com/

Heard different opinions on eliminator. I run a tight slipper anyway so I was used to controlling things with my trigger finger. Definitely an item you can wait on until you have a chance to practice some more. FYI, I had tightened my stock slipper to the max to emulate an eliminator but still had the associated weight of a slipper. Normally, you want to back off the throttle when landing with a tight slipper or eliminator but I have not had a problem stripping idler gears to date. The 17.5 does not have the torque of my 7.5 (strip idler gears frequently on my sc10) so probably not so critical to be off the throttle on landings.
I think the 2 pad slipper with vented disks is a better way in stock. Only reason is dont like the idea of the trans taking a big hit on big air landings or crashes. It will also transmit back to the motor too. Just my 2 cents
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:35 AM
  #9450  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Could of just flipped it , no shims..

Or

no flip, but can adjust the amount of shim's for more tuneability.
@Rigor and Wild Cherry, thank you for this information
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