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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 05-06-2014, 07:21 AM
  #9376  
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Originally Posted by rcfiend
Thanks BA Racer and everyone else for your suggestions! I'll check out pitbox hobbies before I make a decision.
I went with the blue Ae and after wish I had gone with the Lunsford instead.
The less expensive screws won't stand up to much wear & tear .
After being used for a short time they will need replacement , thus the Lunsford will prove to be the better value with time .

After I wear out the blue switching out for the better quality.
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Old 05-06-2014, 07:22 AM
  #9377  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
I went with the blue Ae and after wish I had gone with the Lunsford instead.
The less expensive screws won't stand up to much wear & tear .
After being used for a short time they will need replacement , thus the Lunsford will prove to be the better value with time .

After I wear out the blue switching out for the better quality.
is there a problem with the stock screws or are we just talking about weight savings here?
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Old 05-06-2014, 07:23 AM
  #9378  
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Originally Posted by gticlay
Not really. I just bought a B5M kit from Mr. Lunsford and it's the example for quality and perfection. That link above - they can't even spell Associated correctly!??!?
It's called a spelling mistake. Sorry, not everyone can be a perfect speller like you....
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Old 05-06-2014, 07:26 AM
  #9379  
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So I was told there are alumium cvd made my mip that just replace the stock one and I don't need to spend 90$ on a puck system
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Old 05-06-2014, 07:28 AM
  #9380  
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Originally Posted by godofcable
is there a problem with the stock screws or are we just talking about weight savings here?
Steel is just fine , only reasons for using aftermarket is for appearances and weight .
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Old 05-06-2014, 07:38 AM
  #9381  
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Originally Posted by xTotalghost
So I was told there are alumium cvd made my mip that just replace the stock one and I don't need to spend 90$ on a puck system
The pucks system includes outdrives as well as the bone and pucks. But yeah, a TLR aluminum bone will fit on the B5.
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Old 05-06-2014, 07:42 AM
  #9382  
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Update:
Removed the triple Ae slipper.
& the B5 slipper spring.

Replaced with vented twin pad & heavy duty sc 10 slipper spring.


Next is the removing 1 mm from bump steer.( was highly suggested to do)

Won't do today , need to run with out tonight for base test and then change for Fridays club race .
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Old 05-06-2014, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Steel is just fine , only reasons for using aftermarket is for appearances and weight .
has anyone weighed just the hardware so we know how much total weight we are talking? I'm trying to justify spending that much money on screws lol
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Old 05-06-2014, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
... & heavy duty sc 10 slipper spring.
part #?
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Old 05-06-2014, 08:15 AM
  #9385  
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Originally Posted by godofcable
has anyone weighed just the hardware so we know how much total weight we are talking? I'm trying to justify spending that much money on screws lol
only can guess , believe lighter hardware would shave about 7 grams.
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Old 05-06-2014, 09:05 AM
  #9386  
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Originally Posted by B.A. Racer
http://www.pitboxhobbies.com/index.htm

Go to metric screws and go to titanium. Great screws and will be shipped from Indiana! You might recognize the car on the front page as well
What's the grade & quality compared to Lunsford?

Per lunsford website: What makes Lunsford titanium screws so special? All of our screws are machined from domestic 6AL/4V titanium -- made in the usa.
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Old 05-06-2014, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by gticlay
The pucks system includes outdrives as well as the bone and pucks. But yeah, a TLR aluminum bone will fit on the B5.
tlr does fit but maybe a little too long when compressed. ae is flat at the end and tlr is round. just need to shave flat like ae one and/or add an o-ring to the shock shaft so it doesn't compress all the way down.
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Old 05-06-2014, 09:30 AM
  #9388  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Update:
Removed the triple Ae slipper.
& the B5 slipper spring.

Replaced with vented twin pad & heavy duty sc 10 slipper spring.


Next is the removing 1 mm from bump steer.( was highly suggested to do)

Won't do today , need to run with out tonight for base test and then change for Fridays club race .
How do you remove 1mm from bumpsteer? Right now there are no washers under the stud (at least stock setup) are you talking about on the rack (adjusting Ackerman)

On the rear camber links are u using the alum brace with with 4mm on the low side. (that would be +2 from stock)

thanks
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Old 05-06-2014, 09:37 AM
  #9389  
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Originally Posted by Theroc
How do you remove 1mm from bumpsteer? Right now there are no washers under the stud (at least stock setup) are you talking about on the rack (adjusting Ackerman)

On the rear camber links are u using the alum brace with with 4mm on the low side. (that would be +2 from stock)

thanks
have to grind 1 mm off the steering knuckle , leave Ackermann the same

Yes ,using 4mm on the low side with the alloy rear camber brace.
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Old 05-06-2014, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
have to grind 1 mm off the steering knuckle , leave Ackermann the same

Yes ,using 4mm on the low side with the alloy rear camber brace.

Thanks!
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