137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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05-05-2014, 02:24 PM
#9346
I thought the b5m build went together rather nicely. Only a few things concerned me. One were the dog bones. It seemed that the molding for the pin wasn't centered in the manufacturing process so if I insert it into the outdrive one way it binds like hell but if i flop it 180 degrees it fits but with a slight wobble (even tried other outdrive still did the same and it was only one dog bone not both). My second issue I had were the stock turnbuckles. IMO they are junk. The lengths on them are wayyyyy to long. You end up having to bury the threads so far into the tie-rod end that you can't even make adjustments to camber or toe with out the damn things popping off. Since they are so tightly buried into the tie-rod end it also acts like a clamp on the ball stud. So that once free moving ball cup, becomes tight with binding once everything is adjusted to where it should be.
With that said everything else in the build went together flawlessly. I contacted AE about replacement dogbones since it has been an issue with other customers and they said they will replace for free! Awesome! As for the turnbuckles I don't know what I am going to do. Probably find me some shorter length ones or perhaps contact AE again to let them know whats going on.
With that said everything else in the build went together flawlessly. I contacted AE about replacement dogbones since it has been an issue with other customers and they said they will replace for free! Awesome! As for the turnbuckles I don't know what I am going to do. Probably find me some shorter length ones or perhaps contact AE again to let them know whats going on.
05-05-2014, 02:31 PM
#9347
[QUOTE=bilster44;13239118]But Cherry you are stating something that is just not true...and that in itself will mislead people. I'm done with this.[/QUOTE
forgive me for trying
What I posted was true ...
Or ?
Some of the ball cups must have defects..
Standing by my word..
The ball cups are not defective and the proof they are good is ...
A shorter rod will never bind the cups & will be smooth ....
forgive me for trying
What I posted was true ...
Or ?
Some of the ball cups must have defects..
Standing by my word..
The ball cups are not defective and the proof they are good is ...
A shorter rod will never bind the cups & will be smooth ....
05-05-2014, 02:46 PM
#9348
Yeah, exactly. I'm actually quite happy with my car how it is now "but if I was gonna complain" is where I'm at. My fix was going to a tire in front in the new softer MC compound and it added a significant amount of steering. I think I'm maxed out on limiting droop up front with 3 as it already can chassis slap the front on certain jumps like at my track or the big one at TRCR in front of the drivers stand right now.
05-05-2014, 02:47 PM
#9349
Of course, my shop doesn't have greys [/QUOTE]
Trcr has lots of um. ha !
Don't waste the time with searching for another brand.
Instead suggest to start with green rear & white front & wait for some greys to try later.
Trcr has lots of um. ha !
Don't waste the time with searching for another brand.
Instead suggest to start with green rear & white front & wait for some greys to try later.
05-05-2014, 03:23 PM
#9350
First ever Associated build and the quality seems pretty decent. Although the diff thrust bolt included in the kit didn't have any threads on the end of it, run to the hobby shop and that was taken care of. Definitely waiting for the lunsford turnbuckles to get back in stock at Amain, used chapstick on the stockers and adjustments still aren't very easy with the cups popping off.
05-05-2014, 03:26 PM
#9351
Yeah, exactly. I'm actually quite happy with my car how it is now "but if I was gonna complain" is where I'm at. My fix was going to a tire in front in the new softer MC compound and it added a significant amount of steering. I think I'm maxed out on limiting droop up front with 3 as it already can chassis slap the front on certain jumps like at my track or the big one at TRCR in front of the drivers stand right now.
your ride should land as if on a cloud
As traction comes up ?
Heavier oil, looser slipper, lower ride height.
wheelies coming to straight & darty handling are signals to change car to above.
Next ? free up the car by using newer tires or geometry changes like rear camber
05-05-2014, 04:01 PM
#9352
So proud of the B5M build I recently finished 
05-05-2014, 04:12 PM
#9353
Yeah, exactly. I'm actually quite happy with my car how it is now "but if I was gonna complain" is where I'm at. My fix was going to a tire in front in the new softer MC compound and it added a significant amount of steering. I think I'm maxed out on limiting droop up front with 3 as it already can chassis slap the front on certain jumps like at my track or the big one at TRCR in front of the drivers stand right now.
05-05-2014, 04:36 PM
#9354
To cut the weight down; Titanium screw kit, AE aluminum top shaft, Schelle slipper eliminator. remove battery strap, thumb screws & foam, cut out all braces behind servo, between battery post, and triangle sections next to tranny mount. AKA Typo tires. Oh yea and the dog bones were polished chrome to make it go faster.
05-05-2014, 06:03 PM
#9355
Tech Initiate
The New Buggy
This is my new ride finished painting the other day can't wait to hit the track!
05-05-2014, 07:18 PM
#9356
Tech Rookie
Can some one please answer this ...flex or no flex? Is it good or bad ?
05-05-2014, 07:26 PM
#9358
Tech Rookie
I'm running indoor on clay .
05-05-2014, 07:40 PM
#9360
@ the track, switching to twin slipper after running the triple for the start.
Also removed 1mm bump steer.
Lets guys know how it goes later.
Also removed 1mm bump steer.
Lets guys know how it goes later.