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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 05-03-2014, 01:38 PM
  #9271  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Outer flange is wider on the bearing, gritty front wheel bearings are no more.
Picture?
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Old 05-03-2014, 02:01 PM
  #9272  
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
I've ran the gullwing setup twice. Once indoors and once outdoors. It's not as dramatic as some would leave you to believe but I'm sure I'll be sticking with them. If you're having an on power push, read my last post about moving the motor forward.
Totally agree. This was my first impression -- not much different but a slight improvement on power so I am sticking with them.
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Old 05-03-2014, 04:41 PM
  #9273  
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@ the track right now and unspeakable things R being done to the B5m...

That's right, were'll breaking out the best tuning tool for a Ae ever....

The Dremel......
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Old 05-03-2014, 04:53 PM
  #9274  
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Originally Posted by predu
That's funny. All the clowns around here that said people are doing something wrong. Turns out even AE agreed it wasn't right.
Just learn all about just now, was misinform bout the bearings.

Bearing is still the same.
The crush tube has been modified & upgraded instead.

appoligies for the bearing confusion.
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Old 05-03-2014, 05:24 PM
  #9275  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
@ the track right now and unspeakable things R being done to the B5m...

That's right, were'll breaking out the best tuning tool for a Ae ever....

The Dremel......
Sounds like chopping the webbing out the rear arms.
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Old 05-03-2014, 05:39 PM
  #9276  
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Originally Posted by 34x17
Totally agree. This was my first impression -- not much different but a slight improvement on power so I am sticking with them.
I noticed quite a difference last Sunday. Drove my SuperStock(gullwing) back to back with my stock(flat). I must say it was more consistent and forgiving running the gullwing arms. I went from 2mm trail to 3mm, lowered the rear ball stud .5mm and the car rotates very nicely. I tested higher,lower roll centers both front and rear and ended up where I stated. I found a few more sets of arms and swapped my stock car over too. I am running the mid shock tower in the middle position, where I ran my stock tower in the outer position. These seem to be equal out wise, however the stock tower seems to be a half hole(1.5mm) taller enabling us to use this as a tuning aid(acts like adding a shock limiter without getting oily)

I will be sticking with these arms for sure. If I ever get a mid, I will use the flat arms on that car( doubt I will since I like the RM too much). Also, seems like locally to me quite a few guys are dumping their mids and going to the rear motor B5 instead. Associated nailed it with this car. Durable, handles well, and light(too light, I have to add weight all over this thing to make weight for JBRL).
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Old 05-03-2014, 05:55 PM
  #9277  
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Originally Posted by bambambennett
I noticed quite a difference last Sunday. Drove my SuperStock(gullwing) back to back with my stock(flat). I must say it was more consistent and forgiving running the gullwing arms. I went from 2mm trail to 3mm, lowered the rear ball stud .5mm and the car rotates very nicely. I tested higher,lower roll centers both front and rear and ended up where I stated. I found a few more sets of arms and swapped my stock car over too. I am running the mid shock tower in the middle position, where I ran my stock tower in the outer position. These seem to be equal out wise, however the stock tower seems to be a half hole(1.5mm) taller enabling us to use this as a tuning aid(acts like adding a shock limiter without getting oily)

I will be sticking with these arms for sure. If I ever get a mid, I will use the flat arms on that car( doubt I will since I like the RM too much). Also, seems like locally to me quite a few guys are dumping their mids and going to the rear motor B5 instead. Associated nailed it with this car. Durable, handles well, and light(too light, I have to add weight all over this thing to make weight for JBRL).
Agree, I think they hit it out of the park on the B5R.

When I went to the gulls my setup was already at 3mm trail with the front carriers back and the car turned really hard while staying forgiving. It was particularly stellar on a jump where the fast line was to land and get immediately into a hard right -- stayed settled and railed it every time.
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Old 05-03-2014, 06:09 PM
  #9278  
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Originally Posted by uclabruins89
3 cell bad idea. not legal for racing. if you dont like racing, dont buy a racing buggy like the b5m
My XXX is a racing buggy and it's one of the best RC cars I've ever had. What's wrong with appreciating precision and finesse outside of a racetrack? Whats wrong with running a 3 cell at your local track outside of a race? I raced when I was younger, now I just want to drive. Been there, done that, moved on you know?

I think I might like the 5m because of it's aluminum chassis, something which gives a car a necessary weight and in the right place, low down. Technology allows for cars that are almost 'too' light. It seems like a thoroughbred and I like those kind of cars as long as they aren't exceedingly delicate like the Losi mini eight.

Anyway the only qualm I had was the batteries it would take. I like flexibility. In my B4 I've run everything from a 5200 hard case 2 cell, to a 2200mah 3 cell, to a 4500mah 3 cell, it fits them all.
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:56 PM
  #9279  
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Old 05-03-2014, 08:15 PM
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What is required to try/run the gull wing arms on the B5? Just the arms, or a new tower as well.
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Old 05-03-2014, 08:33 PM
  #9281  
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Originally Posted by brian6674
What is required to try/run the gull wing arms on the B5? Just the arms, or a new tower as well.
You need both the arms and the tower.
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Old 05-03-2014, 10:46 PM
  #9282  
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Got my 5m out on the track for the first time tonight. Manage to get a 2nd in the main. Had 1st for most of the race but crashed couple times on the last lap and gave it up last minute. Most fun I've had racing in a long time.

Def think the mid motor is a faster car. I am getting much better lap times with the mid.

track had a decent amount of FT- Hard parts in stock. even got a alum top gear, alum D mount and inserts.
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Old 05-04-2014, 06:16 AM
  #9283  
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Originally Posted by brian6674
What is required to try/run the gull wing arms on the B5? Just the arms, or a new tower as well.
If you only get the arms, to get the same droop ability as stock you must remove a shock limiter or two to compensate for the stock RM tower being 1.5mm taller. Thats it. If you run the arms with the stock tower without removing a limiter, you will end up with the same feel as if you added limiters to the stock setup resulting in less rearward weight transfer equalling more mid to exit corner steering grip.
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Old 05-04-2014, 07:55 AM
  #9284  
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Anybody have a starting gear with 13.5 blinky? Track is low grip with low 20 second lap times. I did a search but did not see anything. Thanks.
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Old 05-04-2014, 08:47 AM
  #9285  
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In thr back of the manual there is a gearing chart
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