uclabruins89

iTrader: (5)

Where do you measure the rear right height? It seems to be different measuring in front of the arms on the metal vs behind the arms on the plastic

mncescty

hubs!

aeRayls

iTrader: (3)

I believe a lot of people at first had a push with the rear car and dropping down to 3 or even 2mm trailing solved a push. The biggest thing that helped balance this car for me was changing to a 78 spur and moving the motor more forward. This is for mod of course. Going form 81/23 to 78/22 with my 8.5 totally transformed my car indoors. The other 2 AE drivers in my area quickly followed and love it. I run 4mm all day everyday lol.

BIGSKI15

iTrader: (18)

I guess ordering 4 sets of flat arms by accident will payoff... Haha. Going to keep the b5 for a while to make sure the mid will work everywhere before selling it. Going to bring both cars set up to run back to back.

Jake S

iTrader: (67)

shays and mcc outdoor have more traction then bd, so i think you would be fine lol

DWill

Almost done, working on the body now. Need to get that and the wing on then set up the speed control.

Then I can through a basic setup on it and head to the track to test and set it up.



I have aluminum rear hubs on the way AND I finally found the C and D inserts; they're on the way too. Now I just need the front pin brace.

I also have the hard rear shock tower to put on but I'm waiting for the cut gears to come back in stock; then I tear the entire back end apart.

kodack10

No comments yet on that battery pack fitting or not?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Walkman

iTrader: (29)

Why in the world would you want a 3cell in a 2wd buggy? Also for $100 you can just about buy any battery you want. Also why do you only want a 2200 mAh 30c battery? You can get a 6000mAh 100c for $85 to $100. Also i highly suggest a hard cased lipo for offroad. Even if you would still want to go with it I would believe it will be to tall and long to fit. I can't say for sure as my car won't be here until Wednesday.

kodack10

Because I have a half dozen of them and they were only $20. I always run 3 cell, and those little 2200mah packs give me over an hour of real world bashing. The thing is you don't need to go 45-55mph all the time so mostly you're just blipping the throttle, and so yeah, low MAH but all 3 packs work less than 2 would.

In real world driving I get more run time out of a 2200mah 3 cell than I do a 5200mah 2 cell. Not to mention it's HALF the weight.

Why would I want to spend $100 on a battery when I can use a $20 battery and buy new cars or hop ups with the savings?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Great tip. I used 1k grit, but used the same technique. All the binding is gone. it is not 1000% better. I was binding so hard that it was affecting my 4inch drop test to set ride height. I highly suggest to anyone building the kit to polish the ball studs.

Jake S

iTrader: (67)

im just guessing here, but because its not a traxxas they think you want to race it and 3s isnt "legal" for 2wd buggy.

and the lipo is nearly 1/2" too long to fit in a b5r or a b5m.

Walkman

iTrader: (29)

Your link you provided takes us to your battery and the cost is $99 that's where I get the $100. Also not to many people bash with a 2wd buggy most race and you can not use a 3 cell to race. I also did not know you already had these batteries. Most people who post asking if XY or Z will fit are looking to see if it will work before they buy something. I do believe you will need saddles, shorty, or a brick battery though.

uclabruins89

iTrader: (5)

3 cell bad idea. not legal for racing. if you dont like racing, dont buy a racing buggy like the b5m

DropPass

iTrader: (3)

With the exception of some soldering, it's all finished!!!



Not very happy with the body, but it's just going to get banged up anyway!

NovaCX12

iTrader: (10)

Assembled mine today. Have one on my B4.2. Does this look right? Kit came with a silver spacer, not sure what its for.