RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

A few parts came off my backorder list at Amain, including the suspension inserts.

DropPass

iTrader: (3)

I just bought two of these from hobby king for $35.00 ea.:




http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...APPROVED_.html

Only downside is that I ordered them on 4/18 and they just arrived today 5/1.

Questions:

I have zero experience with LiPos and brushless and there were no instructions included in the box. Can someone explain how I go about wiring these up to my ESC? The ESC already has two wires for the battery soldered on to it, but no connectors. Should I pull the wires off the ESC and use the ones that came with the battery (see picture)?

What is the third bullet connector for?

What is the little white connector attached to the small red and black wires for?

Thanks in advance for any answers!

TonyWest

iTrader: (50)

I still have a couple of b5m's left.
Does someone make a stainless screw kit yet that I am missing.

kodack10

Out of curiosity do you think I could fit one of these 2200mah 3 cell heli packs in there?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

kodack10

You are me 2 months ago. I was out of the hobby 8 years, I get back in and whats with all this lipo hoo haa? Now I get to pass it on.

This pack is high quality and made to have replaceable power leads so you can cut them as short as you want without ruining the pack. IT also makes it easy to wire them up in series for 4 cell use. If your ESC has no connector on it, I would pick a connector you like and use that on your ESC and all batteries. Some good high-current connectors are Deans T plugs, Traxxas connectors, and EC3 connectors. If you want to be old school you *could* solder the wires directly to your ESC but that ill make charging a nightmare.

If you look closely on the battery, there will be an embossing or indentation telling you which side is + and which is -. The third little bullet is for the cell sensor wire, that is only used for charging so you can leave it out while running.

In a nutshell, think of LiPo as recharable explosives. If you over charge them, or over drain them, they give you more BANG for the buck than you wanted. They are happy up to 4.2 volts a cell at which point they explode. And they are happy down to about 3.2 volts a cell at which point they explode.

To keep them from exploding the battery charger needs to know what voltage each cell is at. There are 2 cells but they're in series. So to get around that they have the 'sensor wire' which has wires connected individually to each cell. This allows the charger to balance the cells so they both get the same charge and arrive at the same voltage. Think "matched cells" only it does it electrically.

To make use of the balance connector you need a balance charger. There are 2 reasons not to charge LiPo on an old NiMH charger.
1. Nimh used a peak detection. voltage goes to 8.4, tapers off, it's charged. LiPo is linear. It goes to 4.2 volts/cell and at that point the charger reduces the CURRENT while keeping the voltage the same until each cell is at 4.2 steady, then it's charged.

2. LiPo chargers have the balance connector which allows them to charge safely without overcharging 1 cell because it charged faster than the other.


I would also advise you to charge at only 1C. That means 1 times the mah rating. A 4200mah cell like that should be charged at no more than 4.2 amps. A 2200mah cell at 2.2 amps, etc.

They can charge faster but you reduce the life significantly.

Lastly much like NimH, LiPo doesn't like to be left in storage at full charge. It also shouldn't be stored discharged. Leave it at about 60% if you're not using the pack for awhile.

If you don't have a LiPo charger get yourself one of these, they're $30 ($40 for AC version), and can charge up to 6 cells at up to 6 amps.
AC http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

DC http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Balanc...-4&keywords=b6

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

Is everyone using the front stock axels/hexes or the clamp on hexes? Can you also tell me why one is preferred over the other.

Wild Cherry

Drop

what ever you do , only use the harness included for charging only.

Skeeter36

iTrader: (32)

If the clamping ones were available to the masses I'm sure everyone would be using them. One reason is because you can buy a 10 mm hex for them. Which would allow you to run more than just a couple brands of wheels. If you switched over from a losi then you would be able to run those front wheels as well. I broke a stock front axle on a funky landing on a triple and now I use the Lunsford ones. They are awesome, very very light and extremely strong.

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

Thx. Skeeter. I have both so I'll try them both.

DWill

I fly RC helicopters as well as race RC cars. The batteries for my heli's are much larger, much moe expensive and carry much more potential danger.

There also seems to be much more in depth discussion about using, storing, charging, etc. LiPO's LiFe's and batteries in the Heli hobby. In general there seems to more information shared and discussed.

Anyway, thought I'd share a couple links with you that will help you out with starting to build a good base of understanding these batteries.

First one is here https://sites.google.com/site/tjingu...arging-how-tos
Some really good info here.

The next is the LiPo section from HeliFreak.com; which is a great source of information and one of the best on-line communities I've ever been involved in.

Here's that link… http://www.helifreak.com/forumdisplay.php?f=31

Should be plenty of good info in those links to help you out.

Just a word of caution; be careful and make sure you understand what your doing before you start charging and using your LiPp's. Spending a couple hours reading and asking questions could keep you from having a pretty bad experience.

millhouse420

iTrader: (8)

The only difference was his gearing, 69/30 with the slipper "locked down"(Harston).

GeorgePravata

iTrader: (171)

So that would be to the rear of the buggy

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

Clamping!
They are available if you search. I just nabbed the last hex and axle from Losi Part House yesterday. Google the part #'s 91408 and 91409.

DropPass

iTrader: (3)

Chalk this up as a learning experience...

I have always cut out my rc bodies prior to painting them. In the painting tips section of the manual it states: "After the paint has completely dried, cut the body along the trim lines. I also read this in a few different places online.

So, I decided to give it a try. What a mistake! When I trimmed the body, the paint cracked and flaked all along my trim lines. I used Tamiya polycarbonate rattle cans. The body dried for just over 24 hours before I started trimming it. Did I do something wrong?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Ok, so the RM B5, what is the smallest spur I can use with a 31T pinion? I have a 31/72 now using an avid triad. I am looking to possible pick up a 66 and/or a 69 to move the motor more forward.