Originally Posted by gticlay

I will not be buying that part. You actually have to use a different length ballstud in some holes if you run different spacing?

Originally Posted by gticlay

I will not be buying that part. You actually have to use a different length ballstud in some holes if you run different spacing?

Originally Posted by Grasschopper

Well no you could use the shorter stud in all the holes right? To me the larger issue is that if you're using a 6mm stud with the 3mm spacer that means you need to use a 4mm stud with the 1mm spacer for the lower position that is often used on high grip tracks. They don't make a 4mm stud so it would have to be cut or ground.

Originally Posted by Grasschopper

Thanks but I did want to make sure the above bold is correct. That would mean that the lower position with 1mm spacer would require a 4mm stud...which I don't currently see as a part. Do you simply suggest grinding/cutting a longer stud to fit?

Originally Posted by Grasschopper

Thanks but I did want to make sure the above bold is correct. That would mean that the lower position with 1mm spacer would require a 4mm stud...which I don't currently see as a part. Do you simply suggest grinding/cutting a longer stud to fit?

Originally Posted by Grasschopper

Well no you could use the shorter stud in all the holes right? To me the larger issue is that if you're using a 6mm stud with the 3mm spacer that means you need to use a 4mm stud with the 1mm spacer for the lower position that is often used on high grip tracks. They don't make a 4mm stud so it would have to be cut or ground.

Originally Posted by Sean Cochran

Just posted this in the mid thread and wanted to add it here also. This about the Aluminum hubs.

We should have included a slip of paper to clear all this up. Sorry.
This is the way it should be.

The etched 0 faces the shock. This means rear motor it is forward and mid motor it's back.
3mm of ball-stud spacing makes the high position. 1mm is the low. The kit hub has 5 link length options, with the aluminum hub you no longer have the longest/ outer ball position. Be careful about the thread length ball stud you use, if it's too long it will crush the bearing in a couple of positions. 6mm thread is recommended with 3mm spacing.

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971

So...My cups are just not loosening up. I had kinda hoped they would break in a bit. I tried the squeezing method, but it was a very small improvement. I am thinking about moving to 4.8x3mm studs and cups for most part. Aside from the goofy steering link. Has anyone found a sure fire way to free up these stock cups? Otherwise I think I might try the tlr cups and studs.

Originally Posted by Buggy kid90

I'm building mine now what's up with the front axles blowing out and what do I need to do to prevent it the parts are like gold right now. As you all probably know.

Originally Posted by the incubus

TLR/Kyosho studs and cups are the best thing you can do on all your cars.
I run them on my 4.2 and on my 410 and after a year now a few need to be replaced. The cups are so strong I bent a rear Lunsford turnbuckle and the cup still requires tools to pry it off!!!