137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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04-28-2014, 08:19 PM
#9031
Tech Addict
you should just build the car.. it only takes 10-15 minutes to change out the front end parts when you get them.. then you can compare the 2 front ends.
personally I like the gull wing better as its a little quicker reacting. but again its not the arms its the tower that makes the difference, but you have to use the gull tower with the gull arms and same with rmb5 tower and arms.
personally I like the gull wing better as its a little quicker reacting. but again its not the arms its the tower that makes the difference, but you have to use the gull tower with the gull arms and same with rmb5 tower and arms.
04-28-2014, 10:23 PM
#9032
How can you achieve more side bite? Less rear droop? Move hubs back? Longer camber link? More anti-squat? More rear roll? I'm running on a high bite indoor clay track and have the same tires as everyone else so that's not a problem. Can't figure out why my car slides around so much.
04-28-2014, 10:36 PM
#9033
How can you achieve more side bite? Less rear droop? Move hubs back? Longer camber link? More anti-squat? More rear roll? I'm running on a high bite indoor clay track and have the same tires as everyone else so that's not a problem. Can't figure out why my car slides around so much.
04-28-2014, 10:43 PM
#9034
If you don't mind- shoot me your email and I'll send it to you.
04-28-2014, 11:19 PM
#9036
Tech Rookie
Where are you in terms of setup now and how would you say it's handling?
I was there a few weeks ago and the comments I'd make would be don't grab a high traction setup and think it will work, I'd call SDRC more of a medium bite traction surface. When I got there I too was pushing like a dump truck. I spoke with Tyler Hicks who was very helpful (so it suggest talking to him) and I made some changes that seemed to help a bit. At the end of the night I was still pushing a little but I think had I had open cell inserts in the front I would have been pretty happy with it (my open cell indoor fronts were shot so I ran on a set with closed cell).
I can post my setup a bit later, don't have it in front of me at the moment.
I was there a few weeks ago and the comments I'd make would be don't grab a high traction setup and think it will work, I'd call SDRC more of a medium bite traction surface. When I got there I too was pushing like a dump truck. I spoke with Tyler Hicks who was very helpful (so it suggest talking to him) and I made some changes that seemed to help a bit. At the end of the night I was still pushing a little but I think had I had open cell inserts in the front I would have been pretty happy with it (my open cell indoor fronts were shot so I ran on a set with closed cell).
I can post my setup a bit later, don't have it in front of me at the moment.
I have been chasing too many changes over the last few weeks so tonight I returned the car back to stock minus one change. I put the car at 3mm trailing axle.
I might just have to go and start asking the fast stock buggy guys at SDRC for setups.
I can run mid 25 sec laps on a good day but some of the fast guys are putting down 22's in their sleep. Even in practice I just can't hold the tight line they do.
Some of those guys have their cars dialed in so well, it's impressive to watch.
04-29-2014, 02:32 AM
#9038
Tech Apprentice
A while probably. No date was given by AE. My guess is later this year or next year "if" they release one. People waiting for the FT to buy the kit crack me up. Aside from Ti turnbuckles the current kit is fine. I dislike the AE TI turnbuckles, so I would most likely replace them with lunsfords on the FT kit when it comes out. Unless your racing stock, the kit is fine as is. For stock, your spending has just started and even the FT wont have what you need. In fact, the FT kit will be even heavier because of the alum parts. IMO the alum parts are for durability, but the car does not really seem to be weak anywhere accept maybe the rear inner ballstud mount. That might be the only "required" bling.
racer
04-29-2014, 04:13 AM
#9039
04-29-2014, 06:56 AM
#9042
I have been chasing too many changes over the last few weeks so tonight I returned the car back to stock minus one change. I put the car at 3mm trailing axle.
I might just have to go and start asking the fast stock buggy guys at SDRC for setups.
I can run mid 25 sec laps on a good day but some of the fast guys are putting down 22's in their sleep. Even in practice I just can't hold the tight line they do.
Some of those guys have their cars dialed in so well, it's impressive to watch.
I might just have to go and start asking the fast stock buggy guys at SDRC for setups.
I can run mid 25 sec laps on a good day but some of the fast guys are putting down 22's in their sleep. Even in practice I just can't hold the tight line they do.
Some of those guys have their cars dialed in so well, it's impressive to watch.
Here was where I got my setup by the main...wish I had open cell foams in the front but I was talked out of using that set of tires because of their wear/age.
I was getting better all night and finished 3rd in the B main after getting hacked early in the race while in 2nd and going to the back of the group. If I had more time I think I would have bumped as I was catching 2nd...1st had checked out on the whole group. With that setup I had a slight push and never felt like I was going to loose the rear end. I really think that if I had the proper foams up front the car would have been about perfect.
Last edited by Grasschopper; 04-29-2014 at 07:12 AM.
04-29-2014, 07:48 AM
#9043
you should just build the car.. it only takes 10-15 minutes to change out the front end parts when you get them.. then you can compare the 2 front ends.
personally I like the gull wing better as its a little quicker reacting. but again its not the arms its the tower that makes the difference, but you have to use the gull tower with the gull arms and same with rmb5 tower and arms.
personally I like the gull wing better as its a little quicker reacting. but again its not the arms its the tower that makes the difference, but you have to use the gull tower with the gull arms and same with rmb5 tower and arms.
04-29-2014, 07:48 AM
#9044
So...My cups are just not loosening up. I had kinda hoped they would break in a bit. I tried the squeezing method, but it was a very small improvement. I am thinking about moving to 4.8x3mm studs and cups for most part. Aside from the goofy steering link. Has anyone found a sure fire way to free up these stock cups? Otherwise I think I might try the tlr cups and studs.
