seth556

iTrader: (43)

If diff lube causes the plastic to harden up and breaks down under pressure then why on earth are we using it in our diffs?

will5879

"inserts allow eight different combinations of rear toe-in+anti-squat, depending on which direction that they are installed. Package includes one set of each; 2.5+1/2.5+2, 3+0/3+3, 3+1/3+2, 3.5+1/3.5+2"

Chief

iTrader: (14)

Wonder about this stuff..?
http://www.grainger.com/product/LOCT...Z69?s_pp=false

CraigH

Highly recommend White Lightening

Wild Cherry

good call....


Stuff is used on Luna rovers.

Rcgman

Anyone here run their B5 at SDRC in San Diego?

I have been trying several things but just can't seem to dial in a setup.

First it was a strong push in the corners, than it went to good steering but the rear was like driving on ice everywhere. Just can't find a good balance.


Any thoughts on a good indoor clay setup for stock racing?

racer_guy

iTrader: (5)

stormer sill have 6 or more in stock...im kinda surprised. maybe everyone except for me has their kit by now lol

MatthieuL

Anyone running with B4 gear diff (9827) by now ?
Thoughts on gear diff + B5 ?

Grasschopper

iTrader: (54)

Where are you in terms of setup now and how would you say it's handling?

I was there a few weeks ago and the comments I'd make would be don't grab a high traction setup and think it will work, I'd call SDRC more of a medium bite traction surface. When I got there I too was pushing like a dump truck. I spoke with Tyler Hicks who was very helpful (so it suggest talking to him) and I made some changes that seemed to help a bit. At the end of the night I was still pushing a little but I think had I had open cell inserts in the front I would have been pretty happy with it (my open cell indoor fronts were shot so I ran on a set with closed cell).

I can post my setup a bit later, don't have it in front of me at the moment.

mxracer458

iTrader: (47)

i was down there a few weeks back,i have brents setup on it from the ae page,i also ran soft ions that i sauced up,it was really good the first pack but the other 3 packs i ran in it the rear end was stepping out a bit,there was only 7 races and i was racing two classes so i didn't really have any time to mess with anything,but i know that night the track was really really slick. Add a little bit of drag brake also,ions are good but i wanna try dirt webs also when they get in stock,

mxracer458

iTrader: (47)

i have some 50wt shock oil that i have,couple drops on the diff gear and its good to go

bambambennett

I ran a set of gulling front arms and M tower yesterday on my 13.5 car. I went .5mm smaller inner rear ball stud and reduced trail by 1 MM. Dialed! Now I need another set for my 17.5 car. After running them back to back, the gull armed car felt smoother and more consistent. Anybody have arms and a tower?

cwalsh

iTrader: (2)

So I am new to off road but not R/C, been racing for over 25years and ready to try something new. I am trying to decide what car I am going to buy. The track is bumpy with low grip, I think lap times are around 21 seconds a lap with most people running either 17.5 or 13.5 blinky, it is an open class but I did not see anyone running open mod. I will most likely go with either the B5 or the 22 2.0. My questions is what do I need for parts whether it be for spares or hop ups to make the car competitive. Should I have arms, caster blocks, ect. Looking for a list of things I should buy if I decide to go this route. Also what servo would be recommended and what style battery pack. Thanks for any help!

Mason

I do not read anywhere anyone saying this. All that was said was the lube itself gets heated up and turns to black junk causing problems with meshing.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I have a 22 2.0 and a b5. For low grip I would get the b5 RM. It has soooo much natural rear grip. I have see nand performed some eye widing crashes and have seen nothing break. The car is tough out of the box. I would get an alum top shaft and maybe ceramic bearing for the tranny. Those upgrades really make the tranny smooth and help with motor temps. If your going to run stock get the triad slipper. If your going the run mod, the stock slipper is fine. Lastly, get some titanium turnbuckles. IMO, does not mater which you get, but get ones around 1 3/4 inches long. The kit 2in is too long imo and uses up all of the threads and makes it tight. Lunsford makes a B5 kit that works nicely. If you like "bling" there are many things to buy. I didnt fell the need for bling. I will eventually get alum rear hexes, but thus far, I have had zero issues with the plastic ones.