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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-19-2014, 07:36 AM
  #8641  
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
My bearings have felt gritty when built since day one. It's very frustrating. Pull it apart and it's smooth in my hands, put it together, feels gritty. Bearing isn't toast but it feels that way installed.

Some people have the problem, some don't, some change to the 3 insert and it's gone, some it gets worse lol. Another guy bought different bearings, problem solved. Who knows.

It bothers my OCD to no f***ing end!!! But it doesn't stop me from winning races
My latest set were the avid bearings, same deal, pull them out and smooth as butter but install and incredibly gritty. That's what makes me think the axle bearings aren't aligned perfectly so when installed the bearings they're seeing uneven wear. I can tell it's off a bit because when I just push the axle through it catches the inside bearing and wants to pop it out so i have to hold it in place and wiggle/force the axle through both bearings. Once done it feels like dog s**t unless the bearings are brand new. Even with brand new bearings it doesn't feel very free, just not gritty.

The centered 3mm inserts feel the best but when going to the 2/4 inserts it's crap. There's definitely something off with some of the molds of these inserts, i don't think the crush tube was ever an issue at least with mine. The screw tightens up fine and puts no pressure on the bearings since I can pull the axle in and out slightly with play from the bearings.
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Old 04-19-2014, 07:50 AM
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I have gone from 4-3-2 inserts and have had zero issues with bearings, no crush tube change, no bearing change and all spin free as a bird. These bearings are gonna make a little noise as they are not super high quality bearings.
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Old 04-19-2014, 09:18 AM
  #8643  
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Originally Posted by mdowney
I did until one of the team drivers showed me that you need to install the optional 3x8mm set screws in each of the hubs and the front caster blocks. You need six screws total. Takes away most of the slop. Magical...

Here's an example.
The slop or play was forward and backward movement on the inner hinge pins. I used the set screws in the front and rear hubs and I agree they work great - didn't think it would do much but it snugged the hubs up nicely. I couldn't find the AE 3 x 8mm screws anywhere so I bought some Protek 3 x 8mm screws from Amain and they worked great, made in the USA too if that matters to anyone.
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Old 04-19-2014, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Bracer11
I currently race a schumacher KF and have always had a B5m in the back of my head. From the guys that race what have you seen comparing the two and would it be an "upgrade" to switch? I run on indoor ozite offroad track.
The kf really isn't the greatest dirt track car. I have my b5m paired with a k1 btw. Get the b5m if you want a better working mm car for dirt tracks.
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Old 04-19-2014, 10:01 AM
  #8645  
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Originally Posted by VegasHB
My latest set were the avid bearings, same deal, pull them out and smooth as butter but install and incredibly gritty. That's what makes me think the axle bearings aren't aligned perfectly so when installed the bearings they're seeing uneven wear. I can tell it's off a bit because when I just push the axle through it catches the inside bearing and wants to pop it out so i have to hold it in place and wiggle/force the axle through both bearings. Once done it feels like dog s**t unless the bearings are brand new. Even with brand new bearings it doesn't feel very free, just not gritty.

The centered 3mm inserts feel the best but when going to the 2/4 inserts it's crap. There's definitely something off with some of the molds of these inserts, i don't think the crush tube was ever an issue at least with mine. The screw tightens up fine and puts no pressure on the bearings since I can pull the axle in and out slightly with play from the bearings.
Then it isn't right. You shouldn't have to force anything like that and yes if you have to do that you're going to kill bearings.

Have to ask the obvious question, are you sure you have it built right?
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Old 04-19-2014, 11:32 AM
  #8646  
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Originally Posted by Jcozz
I need to get those set screws but there not in stock. I added a 1mm spacer to my rear arms as well.
Just search any RC store for 3x8mm set screw and you'll find a ton of options in stock. No need for the AE version. I opted for stainless made by TOP racing. Just be very, very careful not to overtighten because the head strips VERY easily. I currently have a caster block that I need to cut off the hinge pin because the set screw stripped.

Originally Posted by Teflon
I want to believe that but my buddy was there about a week ago. There is stuff that hasn't said in stock for months that he was able to buy...and to this day that same stuff still says back order? Maybe they need to higher more staff!
Keep in mind that Amain allows for no commitment back ordering so when they get popular parts in they need to fulfill those back orders first - and there is a length of time that they need to hold them before they'll put them back into the general inventory. It's a feature that I use all the time. Just back order anything that you want and they will notify you when it comes in stock.

Originally Posted by StadiumRC
The slop or play was forward and backward movement on the inner hinge pins. I used the set screws in the front and rear hubs and I agree they work great - didn't think it would do much but it snugged the hubs up nicely. I couldn't find the AE 3 x 8mm screws anywhere so I bought some Protek 3 x 8mm screws from Amain and they worked great, made in the USA too if that matters to anyone.
The forward/back movement is effected by the set screw. I had a lot of play and it was significantly reduced when I added the set screw. That said, yes, it's easy and obvious to just add shims to the hinge pin to further reduce slop. I prefer the KYO96641 shim set. It comes with 3 different widths.
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Old 04-19-2014, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by racer_guy
good lookin out!! so is it worth getting them as far as getting the job done is concerned?
Definitely worth using. My mistake was using stainless steel as it's softer. I'm switching to standard. They're cheaper anyways.

Originally Posted by langsky
Good tip...you can use one of the longer M3 BHCS screws from the kit to thread the holes first.
Great idea! Thanks!
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Old 04-19-2014, 12:33 PM
  #8648  
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Originally Posted by Pittsdriver
I have gone from 4-3-2 inserts and have had zero issues with bearings, no crush tube change, no bearing change and all spin free as a bird. These bearings are gonna make a little noise as they are not super high quality bearings.
+1
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Old 04-19-2014, 12:35 PM
  #8649  
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got my new b5 kit time to opend it up
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Old 04-19-2014, 01:02 PM
  #8650  
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Originally Posted by suby723
The kf really isn't the greatest dirt track car. I have my b5m paired with a k1 btw. Get the b5m if you want a better working mm car for dirt tracks.
Yeah I agree about the KF not being a good dirt track car. Im wondering how they compare on carpet.
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Old 04-19-2014, 01:47 PM
  #8651  
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Originally Posted by Grasschopper
Then it isn't right. You shouldn't have to force anything like that and yes if you have to do that you're going to kill bearings.

Have to ask the obvious question, are you sure you have it built right?
For sure, been building kits for 20+ years. When I say "force" it's not pulling out the pliers time. Have to press it in with my thumb while I hold the bearing with a couple fingers.
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Old 04-19-2014, 02:02 PM
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Old 04-19-2014, 02:35 PM
  #8653  
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Now that the low traction kit is out for the KF it will be great on dirt too. No mid motor corners or jumps quite like the KF. Combine that with traction on dirt and it will hang with the B5M I am sure. But price wise the B5M is the way to go.
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Old 04-19-2014, 03:58 PM
  #8654  
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what gearing to run for a viper 17.5 got a 30 tooth to start with
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Old 04-19-2014, 04:34 PM
  #8655  
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Originally Posted by vito
what gearing to run for a viper 17.5 got a 30 tooth to start with
69/32-34 vito
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