Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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#8641
My bearings have felt gritty when built since day one. It's very frustrating. Pull it apart and it's smooth in my hands, put it together, feels gritty. Bearing isn't toast but it feels that way installed.
Some people have the problem, some don't, some change to the 3 insert and it's gone, some it gets worse lol. Another guy bought different bearings, problem solved. Who knows.
It bothers my OCD to no f***ing end!!! But it doesn't stop me from winning races
Some people have the problem, some don't, some change to the 3 insert and it's gone, some it gets worse lol. Another guy bought different bearings, problem solved. Who knows.
It bothers my OCD to no f***ing end!!! But it doesn't stop me from winning races
The centered 3mm inserts feel the best but when going to the 2/4 inserts it's crap. There's definitely something off with some of the molds of these inserts, i don't think the crush tube was ever an issue at least with mine. The screw tightens up fine and puts no pressure on the bearings since I can pull the axle in and out slightly with play from the bearings.
#8642
I have gone from 4-3-2 inserts and have had zero issues with bearings, no crush tube change, no bearing change and all spin free as a bird. These bearings are gonna make a little noise as they are not super high quality bearings.
#8643
Tech Regular
I did until one of the team drivers showed me that you need to install the optional 3x8mm set screws in each of the hubs and the front caster blocks. You need six screws total. Takes away most of the slop. Magical...
Here's an example.
Here's an example.
#8645
Tech Elite
iTrader: (54)
My latest set were the avid bearings, same deal, pull them out and smooth as butter but install and incredibly gritty. That's what makes me think the axle bearings aren't aligned perfectly so when installed the bearings they're seeing uneven wear. I can tell it's off a bit because when I just push the axle through it catches the inside bearing and wants to pop it out so i have to hold it in place and wiggle/force the axle through both bearings. Once done it feels like dog s**t unless the bearings are brand new. Even with brand new bearings it doesn't feel very free, just not gritty.
The centered 3mm inserts feel the best but when going to the 2/4 inserts it's crap. There's definitely something off with some of the molds of these inserts, i don't think the crush tube was ever an issue at least with mine. The screw tightens up fine and puts no pressure on the bearings since I can pull the axle in and out slightly with play from the bearings.
The centered 3mm inserts feel the best but when going to the 2/4 inserts it's crap. There's definitely something off with some of the molds of these inserts, i don't think the crush tube was ever an issue at least with mine. The screw tightens up fine and puts no pressure on the bearings since I can pull the axle in and out slightly with play from the bearings.
Have to ask the obvious question, are you sure you have it built right?
#8646
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
The slop or play was forward and backward movement on the inner hinge pins. I used the set screws in the front and rear hubs and I agree they work great - didn't think it would do much but it snugged the hubs up nicely. I couldn't find the AE 3 x 8mm screws anywhere so I bought some Protek 3 x 8mm screws from Amain and they worked great, made in the USA too if that matters to anyone.
#8648
Tech Adept
#8649
got my new b5 kit time to opend it up
#8650
#8651
For sure, been building kits for 20+ years. When I say "force" it's not pulling out the pliers time. Have to press it in with my thumb while I hold the bearing with a couple fingers.
#8652
#8653
Now that the low traction kit is out for the KF it will be great on dirt too. No mid motor corners or jumps quite like the KF. Combine that with traction on dirt and it will hang with the B5M I am sure. But price wise the B5M is the way to go.
#8654
what gearing to run for a viper 17.5 got a 30 tooth to start with