Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread

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  • Quote: Just got the ft rear arm mounts and camber, on the D arm mount the arrows should point inwards as I'm looking at it from the rear correct? This is to match box stock. Yes

    The rear camber mount should be +2 to match box stock? +2 is equal to zero washers on the plastic mount
    Responses in red
  • Quote: Responses in red
    yeah, and i always wonder why people do the alum mount down with 2mm of washers. Sometimes even 3mm. Why not just flip it up and use 0-1mm washers? Lower CG? lol. The mount cant weight that much
  • For those of you using Lunsford turnbuckles are you using the new ones for the B5 or older ones for a B4? The new ones for a B5 almost seem to short. I'm sure they are much easier to adjust but just don't want them loosening up on their own.
  • Quote: For those of you using Lunsford turnbuckles are you using the new ones for the B5 or older ones for a B4? The new ones for a B5 almost seem to short. I'm sure they are much easier to adjust but just don't want them loosening up on their own.
    I have used both. The B4 ones are too long IMO, thus limit tuning. If you are using long links, they are fine, but if you try to use short links it will be an issue. The B5 ones have been working fine for me. I have bent a couple, but they replace them no problem.
  • Quote: I have used both. The B4 ones are too long IMO, thus limit tuning. If you are using long links, they are fine, but if you try to use short links it will be an issue. The B5 ones have been working fine for me. I have bent a couple, but they replace them no problem.
    Sounds good. The Jconcept turnbuckles seem too long to me too. So I guess the Lunsford is the best option.
  • They may 'seem' long, but they're not. They work perfectly.
  • Quote: They may 'seem' long, but they're not. They work perfectly.
    So I guess you would say the Lunsford's are too short?
  • I bought 1 7/8 inch ones for my first car. They worked ok, but I had to buy them as individuals, which my LHS sells. My second kit I got the B5 ones from lunsford.
  • Any suggestions on how NOT to get air into the shocks when building them? I'm used to touring car shocks with a diaphragm...
  • Quote: Any suggestions on how NOT to get air into the shocks when building them? I'm used to touring car shocks with a diaphragm...
    with emulsion you will always have air in the shock.
  • Quote: I had mentioned before that it was taking twice as much preload on one rear rear shock verses the other to get "bones level". One of the shocks has lots of resistance once the shock is assembled and before oil goes in. I have taken it apart and put back together many times, I am not fixing it. My 15 year old dremel no longer works. Guess I will polish shafts first. I don't have much support equipment. Ordered 2.5 wench instead of 2.0. Using the L wrenches with arthritis is no fun. Broke off neg. wire from bat to ESC. Can't even try to make Hotwire work. Did I mention I don't have much support equipment.
    Thanks for reading my
    I feel a little bit better.
    Believe I found the problem. Looks like I got an extra shock spacer and was shorted a shock hat bushing. The instructions show those 2 obviously different parts as the same part number. I guess i should contact AE, huh?
  • Quote: yeah, and i always wonder why people do the alum mount down with 2mm of washers. Sometimes even 3mm. Why not just flip it up and use 0-1mm washers? Lower CG? lol. The mount cant weight that much
    because if you want to go lower now you have to flip your arm mount around when adding / removing washers is much easier.
  • Quote: because if you want to go lower now you have to flip your arm mount around when adding / removing washers is much easier.
    I suspected it was something like that.
  • Quote: Sounds good. The Jconcept turnbuckles seem too long to me too. So I guess the Lunsford is the best option.
    The AE stock turnbuckles and the Jconcepts Fin turnbuckles are the same length.
  • First time building a 10th and ball diff for that matter, just installed the rear and notice that the t nut is preventing the left arm from moving up. I compressed the spring a bit before building and ball diff feels smooth.
    Do I need to just tighten the t nut more to get the movement and make the ball diff tighter?