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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-07-2014, 07:29 AM
  #8026  
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Originally Posted by splking1
Was that the warehouse 3 setup? What size motor you running?
yes it was warehouse 3 setup. I'm running a 7.5 trinity. I wanted to give a trinity motor a try i usually run orion.
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:40 AM
  #8027  
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Ktmderf

Try adding some vent holes in the front windshield.
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by evolution03
yes it was warehouse 3 setup. I'm running a 7.5 trinity. I wanted to give a trinity motor a try i usually run orion.
I was thinking of running that shock setup since but someone said don't do it since I'm 17.5. Does that make since. Anyone input would be great.
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:42 AM
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I'm running Mayfields warehouse setup with different shock package 2x1.6 all the way around and 32.5 front and 30 rear. (Think of increasing the Ackerman but for now I'm running this) I'm using a 17.5 reedy Mach 2 with 34/69 25degrees timing. This setup is easy to drive with more then enough steering for the med size track with med/high bite.
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Old 04-07-2014, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by SilentHunter
I'm running Mayfields warehouse setup with different shock package 2x1.6 all the way around and 32.5 front and 30 rear. (Think of increasing the Ackerman but for now I'm running this) I'm using a 17.5 reedy Mach 2 with 34/69 25degrees timing. This setup is easy to drive with more then enough steering for the med size track with med/high bite.
That's the same size pistons I'm running. I'm running 30 front and 27.5 rear. I'm having issues were i land a big double and the back end kicks out once it lands. I've tried 3+1 and 3+2 in the rear with no luck. Should I go to a little heavier oil? Any help would be great. Very frustrating. Was going to try the b5 rear arms tomorrow
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Old 04-07-2014, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by BillPear
I wonder why Steven cut out all the chassis braces and doesn't have a battery strap? Weight (intentional) a minute, he runs mod, and WEIGHT IS IMPORTANT!
We did that on the 22MM. It really makes the car easier to drive (on dirt). I wondered how long it would take for people to decide the car was, perhaps, too stiff. Could also just remove the screws for the waterfall (chassis brace that goes over motor) to see if it makes a difference.
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Old 04-07-2014, 08:24 AM
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sat before i ran my first pack i forgot i didn't loctite the screw for the front hubs,i did that,went out for my first pack on the car and i though it was really good until my ball stud unthreaded out of the hubs. loctite those back in and i was good to go, 2nd qual my nut on my slipper came loose(never had that happened). Then in my main rear was loose,overall good impression on the car and i ran on a track i don't normally run and traction was a lot looser then i normally run,can't wait to get to my normal track and see how this thing handles.
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Old 04-07-2014, 08:32 AM
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So from what I understand the flat arms and the RM shock tower makes the car better?
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Old 04-07-2014, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by ktmderf
I've been having trouble with heat with my B5ms. I have a car for both stock and mod. I haven't seen a whole lot about that trouble in this thread but I did see where dropping weight has made it better especially in stock. My stock comes in at almost 1600 grams but I have it geared at 29/75 which is pretty conservative compared to others and with 30degrees of motor timing in blinky mode. So I don't quite get why it's getting hot. Is it the weight? I ran the same setup on my 4.2 and it used to come off just warm. I don't see how some guys are running gearing like 69/32 with 17.5 and not getting way too hot? I'm running on an indoor track that isn't big but it isn't tight. Even with my mod car I'm running a Reedy 7.5 with gearing at 21/81 and it will come off at 185 and that's with stock timing at 20 degrees. I just saw Maifields latest setup and he's running the Reedy 7.5 gearing at 23/81 with 0 degrees of timing. Does that mean he retarded the timing on the motor from the stock 20 to 0? Or is 0 in reference to the stock 20? If that makes any sense lol. Any tips are really appreciated. My 17.5 is also a Sonic Mach 2.

i would think you were undergeared, i run small to medium and run 32/72 and even tried 34/72 and temp did not change much.
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Old 04-07-2014, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by xTotalghost
So from what I understand the flat arms and the RM shock tower makes the car better?
Maifield runs that setup with flat front arms. There have been people saying that the flat front arms have more steering mid through exit of corner but the gull wing have more turn in.
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Old 04-07-2014, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by splking1
I was thinking of running that shock setup since but someone said don't do it since I'm 17.5. Does that make since. Anyone input would be great.
i honestly have never ran 17.5 sorry i cant help
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Old 04-07-2014, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by splking1
That's the same size pistons I'm running. I'm running 30 front and 27.5 rear. I'm having issues were i land a big double and the back end kicks out once it lands. I've tried 3+1 and 3+2 in the rear with no luck. Should I go to a little heavier oil? Any help would be great. Very frustrating. Was going to try the b5 rear arms tomorrow
what rear spring is it? i changed to 1.6's and white springs in rear.. really cut down on rear end wash out's while landing
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Old 04-07-2014, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by splking1
That's the same size pistons I'm running. I'm running 30 front and 27.5 rear. I'm having issues were i land a big double and the back end kicks out once it lands. I've tried 3+1 and 3+2 in the rear with no luck. Should I go to a little heavier oil? Any help would be great. Very frustrating. Was going to try the b5 rear arms tomorrow
Are you downsiding the landing? I normally see this on flat landings.
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Old 04-07-2014, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by splking1
That's the same size pistons I'm running. I'm running 30 front and 27.5 rear. I'm having issues were i land a big double and the back end kicks out once it lands. I've tried 3+1 and 3+2 in the rear with no luck. Should I go to a little heavier oil? Any help would be great. Very frustrating. Was going to try the b5 rear arms tomorrow
My car was doing a similar thing on a layout a week or two ago... coming off small double, right into a sharp 180, the car would hook. I had to drive around it... let the car settle for just a half sec more before turn in. I have flat fronts and tower on order. That was on kit setup with 1.7 in rear. I have since switched to 1.6 in rear and have not seen the issue pop up again. This could have solved it by slowing down the rear weight transfer a bit. Give it a try.

Edit: Saw you are already on 1.6's. Get those flat front arms and tower on... should solve it.
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Old 04-07-2014, 10:38 AM
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How are they keeping the battery in with no strap? Velcro?

I'll try to post my setup later tonight. With the tips I got on here and a slight change or two, my car was absolutely dialed this past weekend on high grip clay, med layout track with slicks. I had so much traction I was traction rolling if I tried to land our one jump sideways to setup for the straight. I couldn't get the rear to slide that littel bit I needed.

I will say I have never been this fast before. I used to be the one having to pull over to let the fast guys by. Now I see what it is like to come up on traffic so fast and have to navigate throught them. I need more practice getting through traffic cleanly so I can put together a clean race.
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