137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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04-02-2014, 08:16 AM
#7741
Tech Addict
34x17... your totally right on setups.. but I think its more who is building the car then the setup.. I just helped a kid who when he built the shocks didn't measure any of them and they were all different lengths as when he screwed the shock ends on he didn't do it even, so the fronts were about 1/8th apart and same with the rears.. he also said he couldn't see the piston number easy and I found he had a 1.5 in one shock and a 1.6 in another up front.. one suggestion is to use a perm. marker pen and lightly rub the top to see the number easier.
anyway.. I helped him with his shocks and his car worked much much better for him.
like you said.. both are good cars..
anyway.. I helped him with his shocks and his car worked much much better for him.
like you said.. both are good cars..
04-02-2014, 09:07 AM
#7742
Anybody for a hooked up set up for indoor clay?
04-02-2014, 09:41 AM
#7743
lol... you guys are funny..
its fun having a cool car and if you feel that taking weight off makes you way faster then I am all for it.
but guys like cherry and bob and wildcat also have points.. a little weight especially when a car is balanced and a good setup can also be fast.. or even faster .. if the weight settles the car down and adds just a little traction going into and thru and out of a corner.. even if its just 1/4 a second per corner.. with an average track having 8-12 corners you may find yourself going 2-3 seconds a lap faster :-)
having a car that's set up to your liking, being able to drive fast without crashing and also learning how to preload to clear jumps like triples coming out of a corner that others find hard to do are all important as well. wont matter what your car weighs if you crash 3-4 times in a race.
point is.. do what you like and have fun doing it.. ;-)
its fun having a cool car and if you feel that taking weight off makes you way faster then I am all for it.
but guys like cherry and bob and wildcat also have points.. a little weight especially when a car is balanced and a good setup can also be fast.. or even faster .. if the weight settles the car down and adds just a little traction going into and thru and out of a corner.. even if its just 1/4 a second per corner.. with an average track having 8-12 corners you may find yourself going 2-3 seconds a lap faster :-)
having a car that's set up to your liking, being able to drive fast without crashing and also learning how to preload to clear jumps like triples coming out of a corner that others find hard to do are all important as well. wont matter what your car weighs if you crash 3-4 times in a race.
point is.. do what you like and have fun doing it.. ;-)
It doesn't matter what you're "dialed" setup is if you can't keep it on all 4 wheels consistently. Through several cars, I've always found it's best to truly understand all adjustments, and tune the car to what you think it needs, and that you can drive it well (and fast!) for your feel / comfort / style.
04-02-2014, 09:46 AM
#7744
Don't let RCTech navigate your RC choices; that's a bad idea. Treat this site as an entity outside of your local track & racing buddies, and you'll be good. The B5m with the right setup for you is a solid car choice man. It took me a few practice days to get mine decent, and now it's more dialed than ever... and a lot of fun! 
Last edited by Cpt.America; 04-02-2014 at 10:15 AM. Reason: edited out deleted post quote
04-02-2014, 10:02 AM
#7745
I'm pretty happy with mine now, and I only drive indoor clay (OCRC & LRH).
Everything is "kit" stock setup if not mentioned here:
Front End:
FLAT front arms & tower
4mm trailing
1mm under the front inner ballstud on tower
32.5 oil / 1.6 piston / AE White spring / middle shock hole on upper tower
24mm ride height
-1 camber
Rear End:
0 or 0.5 hub inserts
0 washers under inner ballstud on "tower" mount
30 oil / 1.6 piston / AE white spring / inside shock hole on upper tower
23.5mm ride height
-1 to -1.5 camber
Standard hub insert position for outer ballstud link
I prefer the car with saddles vs shorty so far. Batteries all the way pushed back.
Good luck
Everything is "kit" stock setup if not mentioned here:
Front End:
FLAT front arms & tower
4mm trailing
1mm under the front inner ballstud on tower
32.5 oil / 1.6 piston / AE White spring / middle shock hole on upper tower
24mm ride height
-1 camber
Rear End:
0 or 0.5 hub inserts
0 washers under inner ballstud on "tower" mount
30 oil / 1.6 piston / AE white spring / inside shock hole on upper tower
23.5mm ride height
-1 to -1.5 camber
Standard hub insert position for outer ballstud link
I prefer the car with saddles vs shorty so far. Batteries all the way pushed back.
Good luck
04-02-2014, 10:18 AM
#7746
Posts cleaned up. Please keep it on topic! The bashing of other forum members has to stop. (cmon guys, it's against the forum rules). Again, if you don't like advice from a particular person, USE THE IGNORE FEATURE (and/or politely correct them)... that is what it's there for. Don't slander them here in the thread. I think were all adult enough to know what's coming next if it doesn't stop.
Lets talk B5m!
Lets talk B5m!
04-02-2014, 10:39 AM
#7747
34x17... your totally right on setups.. but I think its more who is building the car then the setup.. I just helped a kid who when he built the shocks didn't measure any of them and they were all different lengths as when he screwed the shock ends on he didn't do it even, so the fronts were about 1/8th apart and same with the rears.. he also said he couldn't see the piston number easy and I found he had a 1.5 in one shock and a 1.6 in another up front.. one suggestion is to use a perm. marker pen and lightly rub the top to see the number easier.
anyway.. I helped him with his shocks and his car worked much much better for him.
like you said.. both are good cars..
anyway.. I helped him with his shocks and his car worked much much better for him.
like you said.. both are good cars..
Thanks
04-02-2014, 10:40 AM
#7748
I'm pretty happy with mine now, and I only drive indoor clay (OCRC & LRH).
Everything is "kit" stock setup if not mentioned here:
Front End:
FLAT front arms & tower
4mm trailing
1mm under the front inner ballstud on tower
32.5 oil / 1.6 piston / AE White spring / middle shock hole on upper tower
24mm ride height
-1 camber
Rear End:
0 or 0.5 hub inserts
0 washers under inner ballstud on "tower" mount
30 oil / 1.6 piston / AE white spring / inside shock hole on upper tower
23.5mm ride height
-1 to -1.5 camber
Standard hub insert position for outer ballstud link
I prefer the car with saddles vs shorty so far. Batteries all the way pushed back.
Good luck
Everything is "kit" stock setup if not mentioned here:
Front End:
FLAT front arms & tower
4mm trailing
1mm under the front inner ballstud on tower
32.5 oil / 1.6 piston / AE White spring / middle shock hole on upper tower
24mm ride height
-1 camber
Rear End:
0 or 0.5 hub inserts
0 washers under inner ballstud on "tower" mount
30 oil / 1.6 piston / AE white spring / inside shock hole on upper tower
23.5mm ride height
-1 to -1.5 camber
Standard hub insert position for outer ballstud link
I prefer the car with saddles vs shorty so far. Batteries all the way pushed back.
Good luck
I run a shorty however. With the large pad to the rear. I run on a tight indoor track. I also do not run a washer under the front inner ballstud.
04-02-2014, 10:52 AM
#7749
Tech Adept
Anyone know of someone or any place that has the 90-100c 155 gram shortys for sale? Wanted to give it a try in my B5M to see if its really a big difference for lap times since my battery is coming in at 212 grams.
04-02-2014, 11:12 AM
#7750
Here you can see that Brent Thielke had 21 and 27 mm of stroke on this setup for cactus:
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...us_Thielke.pdf
04-02-2014, 11:13 AM
#7751
Edit: If you look at the setup sheet there's an image of the shock and lines for Free Length and Stroke of the shock. Personally I just measure the stroke. If the stroke is equal and everything is built properly the free length has be be equal doesn't it?
04-02-2014, 11:16 AM
#7752
04-02-2014, 11:19 AM
#7753
So I've been just barely holding off on ordering up a set of Lunsford front axles and ti screw kit. I love the bling. Any of you know what the B5 would typically weigh with an R10 Pro ESC, 6040 servo, Orion Saddles? I would think with a saddle I'll still be well over minimum...
04-02-2014, 11:19 AM
#7754
Get a set of digital calipers and measure the "stroke" as defined/pictured on the setup sheet that is provided in the B5 manual and on the associated website. The calipers can be had cheaply and are incredibly helpful for this and other purposes.
Here you can see that Brent Thielke had 21 and 27 mm of stroke on this setup for cactus:
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...us_Thielke.pdf
Here you can see that Brent Thielke had 21 and 27 mm of stroke on this setup for cactus:
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...us_Thielke.pdf
04-02-2014, 11:32 AM
#7755
Limiters inside the shock primarily and then screwing/unscrewing the shock ends for fine tuning.
Your B5 manual specifies a certain number of limiters in the kit setup but you are free to add or subtract based on what you want to change in the car's handling. In that Thielke setup he used only 1 limiter in each shock, whereas the kit setup I think is 3 front / 2 rear.
Your B5 manual specifies a certain number of limiters in the kit setup but you are free to add or subtract based on what you want to change in the car's handling. In that Thielke setup he used only 1 limiter in each shock, whereas the kit setup I think is 3 front / 2 rear.