137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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03-31-2014, 06:21 PM
#7621
Tech Adept
I agree but when your car is at 1609 and your going against a car that's 1500 and driving talent is the same you don't stand a chance.
03-31-2014, 06:47 PM
#7623
Tech Adept
03-31-2014, 06:49 PM
#7624
To me it makes a huge difference with the way the car jumps. The lighter car is going to accelerate better and jump better then the heavier car, I was not a huge believer till I ran a light car and a heavy car back to back - it makes a difference. Also, I think there are a number of guys in this thread who very well may be in the main or close to it at the stock nats, so there is that too.
That should lighten it up quite a bit!
03-31-2014, 06:51 PM
#7626
Hey rickster I replied to your previous post any help is greatly appreciated.
03-31-2014, 07:12 PM
#7628
Tech Addict
hey skeeter. ok I found your post...
so on the setup here are a few suggestions...
on the front go to the inside hole on the arm, this will soften the front a bit and make weight transfer a little quicker, keep the same springs but go to a 35 wt. oil with the 1.6 pistions.... on the ballstud mount on front take the 2mm spacer out and replace with 1mm spacer.. then on the front hub.. take the 2mm spacer out from behind the hub and either use 1mm spacers on either side of hub centering it or just move the 2mm to the front of hub till you can get some spacers. this puts more weight over the front of the car and really increases steering feel.
move your battery forward with 1 of the thin spacers behind it.
in back leave mid hole on tower and move to inside hole on arm, bones level, and ballstud use 1mm spacer on mount but move to either B hole or C hole on hub, also move hub all the way forward. use a 3/1 block with 1 deg. neg camber front and back.
also run 0 toe in front arms level. use 1.7 pistons in back with 32.5 oil.
oh and switch to the 72 spur.. if your running stock gear to track size.. you want to reach full speed about 3/4 down straight. don't overgear. and then run 30 deg. timing.
this should help a lot!!! if you need more steering go to the white rear spring. or use the black swaybar.
I bet this will dial you in much much more.
let me know :-)
so on the setup here are a few suggestions...
on the front go to the inside hole on the arm, this will soften the front a bit and make weight transfer a little quicker, keep the same springs but go to a 35 wt. oil with the 1.6 pistions.... on the ballstud mount on front take the 2mm spacer out and replace with 1mm spacer.. then on the front hub.. take the 2mm spacer out from behind the hub and either use 1mm spacers on either side of hub centering it or just move the 2mm to the front of hub till you can get some spacers. this puts more weight over the front of the car and really increases steering feel.
move your battery forward with 1 of the thin spacers behind it.
in back leave mid hole on tower and move to inside hole on arm, bones level, and ballstud use 1mm spacer on mount but move to either B hole or C hole on hub, also move hub all the way forward. use a 3/1 block with 1 deg. neg camber front and back.
also run 0 toe in front arms level. use 1.7 pistons in back with 32.5 oil.
oh and switch to the 72 spur.. if your running stock gear to track size.. you want to reach full speed about 3/4 down straight. don't overgear. and then run 30 deg. timing.
this should help a lot!!! if you need more steering go to the white rear spring. or use the black swaybar.
I bet this will dial you in much much more.
let me know :-)
03-31-2014, 07:15 PM
#7629
I did a search and couldn't find an answer. I just built the shocks for my B5 it's my first time building associated big bores. I built them per the instructions. I pump them ten times and they have about 4mm of rebound which is acceptable but when I pull them all the way out they suck back in. Is that normal on these shocks?
03-31-2014, 07:16 PM
#7630
Tech Addict
and on the weight of car.. yes 6 or 7 oz. is heavier.. getting the car to within a ounce is what I was referring to. my mid is 1 ounce heavier then my rear motor car. and both are dialed. and yes I know there are some good drivers on here.. I have been a factory driver for just over 15 yrs.. I helped develop cars for yokomo, mrc, ofna and associated.. and I respect a lot of guys on here and try and help anyone I can. I just don't want a new guy to feel he has to spend hundreds on titanium and super light stuff to feel like that's the only way to be competitive when learning to drive and tune will help wonders first.
03-31-2014, 07:30 PM
#7631
03-31-2014, 07:50 PM
#7632
I'll continue my conversation with splking1 about weight offline so as not to trouble you.
03-31-2014, 07:52 PM
#7633
Yes. Emulsion shocks will always have air. No matter how many times you try to bleed them. It's that little bit of air that draws them back in
03-31-2014, 07:53 PM
#7634
I dont know about you guys.... but I like strapping a rock to my cars, but only if I decide to run in stock. It helps weigh the car down to where you can using the chassis rubbing on the ground as drag brake. works like a charm!
03-31-2014, 07:55 PM
#7635
and on the weight of car.. yes 6 or 7 oz. is heavier.. getting the car to within a ounce is what I was referring to. my mid is 1 ounce heavier then my rear motor car. and both are dialed. and yes I know there are some good drivers on here.. I have been a factory driver for just over 15 yrs.. I helped develop cars for yokomo, mrc, ofna and associated.. and I respect a lot of guys on here and try and help anyone I can. I just don't want a new guy to feel he has to spend hundreds on titanium and super light stuff to feel like that's the only way to be competitive when learning to drive and tune will help wonders first.