Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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#7456
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
I've been running 66/34 for a few weeks now. No problems. I can't say it made a handling difference but I figured a smaller gear equals less rotating mass which is always helpful for 17.5.
Wondering about the Schelle (or Avid) 66 tooth spur for stock(this question is right in your wheelhouse Matt Trimmings). Would moving the motor forward help, not help, handling difference for the new buggy... and would the motor actually slide forward enough to mesh? Seems I bought one for my B4 a long time ago but had to gear it taller than I liked just to get it to mesh and went back to a 69.
Forgot to also ask what's the story with the 64 pitch, 88 tooth spur they have listed? Thanks for any insight.
Forgot to also ask what's the story with the 64 pitch, 88 tooth spur they have listed? Thanks for any insight.
#7457
#7458
Tech Master
#7462
Tech Addict
ok.. you guys are joking right? these are super easy shocks to rebuild.. read the directions in your manual again and you should be fine.
I also heard if you use the wrong stickers on the body it can cause your car to jump funny.. ya that top shaft push is bad.... lol I heard if you mount a rear wing on the front of the car to increase downforce it takes the push away. lol
its like the guy at the track who uses the 4 turn mod and cant figure out why he has trouble getting around the track..lol
I also heard if you use the wrong stickers on the body it can cause your car to jump funny.. ya that top shaft push is bad.... lol I heard if you mount a rear wing on the front of the car to increase downforce it takes the push away. lol
its like the guy at the track who uses the 4 turn mod and cant figure out why he has trouble getting around the track..lol
#7463
getting me a b5 and race stock class
#7464
Tech Master
#7465
Tech Initiate
#7466
#7468
Tech Master
I use the shock pump after refilling the shocks with clean oil and after pumping the shock shaft and piston (no cap installed). It creates a vacuum which removes the bubbles at a much faster rate then if you were to fill/pump and then let sit in a shock stand. I then follow the bleeding procedure outlined in this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hU6B9Z62hw
I originally bought the shock pump for my Tamiya TRF sedan shocks, but it works well with any offroad shock.
I was skeptical at first, but it does work, and I look at it like shock pliers...not necessary, but nice to have.
#7469
#7470
b5 or train hooby stuff