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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 03-28-2014, 11:49 AM
  #7411  
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Default Inserts

How would the blocks wear out. No problem offering the inserts by themselves, that makes since but I have three sets of the blocks that are useless.
You could list on your website that you need additional parts to make it work.
Not to mention the inserts are not $1, There $8 so you have to buy 4 different parts that total $44.

But I have figured a way to get the adjustment I want since I have an extra shock tower
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Old 03-28-2014, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by TJ Hart
There is the correct amount of play in the mesh, I'm pretty stumped where the noise is coming from especially when the diff is smooth.
Check your hub bearings. Also check your transmission bearings - someone had one blow out and I think he said he finished his race but the car was loud.
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Old 03-28-2014, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyWest
How would the blocks wear out. No problem offering the inserts by themselves, that makes since but I have three sets of the blocks that are useless.
You could list on your website that you need additional parts to make it work.
Not to mention the inserts are not $1, There $8 so you have to buy 4 different parts that total $44.

But I have figured a way to get the adjustment I want since I have an extra shock tower
They did the same thing with the alum Shock mounts. You need to buy the alum mounts and the plastic ball to make it work. BTW, I dont think Kyosho or TLR sell the inserts with the suspension holders. But yeah, there should be a note saying you will need the inserts, like they did with the front clamping hexes and axle. TLR and Kyosho like to bundle parts I dont want or need, so I dont really have an issue buying just what I want. Heck, If I could buy the left and right arms separately, like the xray, I would. lol. I did like that about the Kyosho, arms fir both sides front and back... Anyway, can the inserts be swapped out without removing the alum block? I was going to change my buggy from 3-2 to 2.5-2, but I have my chassis tape on and I dont want to cut up the chassis tape to get the screws out, lol.
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Old 03-28-2014, 12:09 PM
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It's the piece that holds the rear hinge pins. Kit should have come with 2/3 of them. They are marked with antisquat and toe numbers I believe. 1 screw attaches it in the center. Read your manual. Good info in there!
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Old 03-28-2014, 12:10 PM
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I found the alum c and d block on eBay and bought the inserts at northwest hobbies in oregon. Got lucky and I did buy the last ones. They are sweet. Also the rear ball stud mount In alum and top shaft are on AE site. Ordered them yesterday.
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Old 03-28-2014, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyWest
How would the blocks wear out. No problem offering the inserts by themselves, that makes since but I have three sets of the blocks that are useless.
You could list on your website that you need additional parts to make it work.
Not to mention the inserts are not $1, There $8 so you have to buy 4 different parts that total $44.

But I have figured a way to get the adjustment I want since I have an extra shock tower
They will wear out because they are soft plastic. They should be $4.00-$5.00, if you are paying $8.00 you are getting ripped off. Agreed, the blocks should come with them and also sell them separately. My LHS had them in stock the other day, I will check with them tonight when I am there. If you really need them PM me and ill grab a set and send them to you.
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Old 03-28-2014, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
They did the same thing with the alum Shock mounts. You need to buy the alum mounts and the plastic ball to make it work. BTW, I dont think Kyosho or TLR sell the inserts with the suspension holders. But yeah, there should be a note saying you will need the inserts, like they did with the front clamping hexes and axle. TLR and Kyosho like to bundle parts I dont want or need, so I dont really have an issue buying just what I want. Heck, If I could buy the left and right arms separately, like the xray, I would. lol. I did like that about the Kyosho, arms fir both sides front and back... Anyway, can the inserts be swapped out without removing the alum block? I was going to change my buggy from 3-2 to 2.5-2, but I have my chassis tape on and I dont want to cut up the chassis tape to get the screws out, lol.
Kyosho sells them together....
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Old 03-28-2014, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by vito
I need to tell you I got one hand its hard

I'm in the same boat Vito, I'm not sure about your case but I have enough arm left to hold the soldering iron or hold objects down with my arm.

The best quote I've ever heard....
"The only disability in life is a bad attitude"

If you have an "I can" attitude you will figure out a way to get it done.

It's tricky to get everything back there but is possible.
Just take your time.

The build goes very well.


Dayton
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Old 03-28-2014, 12:50 PM
  #7419  
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Originally Posted by nordfink
It's the piece that holds the rear hinge pins. Kit should have come with 2/3 of them. They are marked with antisquat and toe numbers I believe. 1 screw attaches it in the center. Read your manual. Good info in there!
Oh ya thats right. I tried to read about antisquat in the manual and I didn't see it reference what the changes do to the car.
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Old 03-28-2014, 12:57 PM
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Front and rear inserts are $8 I was giving the total.
Can you shoot me a PM
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Old 03-28-2014, 01:13 PM
  #7421  
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From recently posted set up guide:
Anti-Squat

MoreMore anti-squat generally makes the rear of the car more sensitive to throttle input.*
The car has more steering while braking, and also a little more powering out of corners.*
On high-traction tracks, it may feel as if the car momentarily has more rear traction accellerating out of corners.*
A car with more anti-squat can also jump a little higher and further, and it will soak up bumps a little better, off-power.*
A lot of anti-squat (4° or more) can make the car spin out in turns, and make the rear end break loose when accellerating.LessLess anti-squat gives more rear traction while accellerating on a slippery or dusty track.*
It also gives more side-bite.*
Less anti-squat will make the car accellerate better and faster through bumpy sections.*
Very little anti-squat (0° or 1°) makes the rear end feel very stable. It also makes power sliding a lot easier.Note that anti-squat only works when you're accellerating or braking, it does absolutely nothing when you're coasting through turns.*
The harder you brake or accellerate, the bigger the effect of anti-squat is.
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Old 03-28-2014, 01:57 PM
  #7422  
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Default there's no substitute for paying attention...

Just to use A-Main Hobbies as an example;

Most, if not all their products, are listed with multiple images. Most, if not all those images include the product in it's manufacturers packaging.

You can discern very easily what's included - look at the package for crying out loud!

One can argue, or be critical of the fact that related parts should be sold together. However, I've witnessed the same individuals complain that they have to buy the entire "insert example here," to get the one part they need. Some cases it works in your favor and other cases not.

We've all elected to play the retail/hobby game, but almost two pages of complaining about it is a little excessive and unproductive no?
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Old 03-28-2014, 02:07 PM
  #7423  
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Originally Posted by Gitsum
Kyosho sells them together....
I was referring to these, not the new V2 style ones. It looks like the v2 ones come with inserts, you are correct.


http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...er-RF-Gunmetal
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Old 03-28-2014, 02:13 PM
  #7424  
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Originally Posted by celt
Just to use A-Main Hobbies as an example;

Most, if not all their products, are listed with multiple images. Most, if not all those images include the product in it's manufacturers packaging.

You can discern very easily what's included - look at the package for crying out loud!

One can argue, or be critical of the fact that related parts should be sold together. However, I've witnessed the same individuals complain that they have to buy the entire "insert example here," to get the one part they need. Some cases it works in your favor and other cases not.

We've all elected to play the retail/hobby game, but almost two pages of complaining about it is a little excessive and unproductive no?
+1 I can see it both ways and people will complain in either direction. I know that I dislike being forced into rear hub when I broke a spindle on my tlr 22 2.0. I had a pile of rear hubs at one point. But at the same time, it does seem like the alum shock stays should come with the $2 balls. I mean, how often will anyone replace the mounts. Probably the same with inserts and the hangers. AE probably just didint want to double package the inserts.
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Old 03-28-2014, 02:30 PM
  #7425  
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Anyone using the protek 130ss servo with the kits F servo horn? Mine would not go on. I tried some losi plastic ones I had and they slipped right on. Even the Blue alum horn that came with the protek wont go on without some effort.
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