Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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#7351
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,475
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
My kit should be arriving in a few days thanks to all of your input. Thank you very much for that.
I have a question about build/progress/journal posts. Should i do that in this thread or start a new journal thread? I feel like i should start a new thread but i just wanted to check on the "culture" of this forum.
Thanks again!
jB
I have a question about build/progress/journal posts. Should i do that in this thread or start a new journal thread? I feel like i should start a new thread but i just wanted to check on the "culture" of this forum.
Thanks again!
jB
My kit should be arriving in a few days thanks to all of your input. Thank you very much for that.
I have a question about build/progress/journal posts. Should i do that in this thread or start a new journal thread? I feel like i should start a new thread but i just wanted to check on the "culture" of this forum.
Thanks again!
jB[/
Welcoming you to join and share your build ...
I have a question about build/progress/journal posts. Should i do that in this thread or start a new journal thread? I feel like i should start a new thread but i just wanted to check on the "culture" of this forum.
Thanks again!
jB[/
Welcoming you to join and share your build ...
Last edited by racer1812; 08-26-2014 at 08:03 AM.
#7352
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
MM took 1st and second. And both were B5M's. The RM car were much better until the traction came way up. Also, once the track started to rut, having the alum chassis down low helped keep the cars from bouncing all over. There were RM cars in the Amain and in the better drivers won. And they probably would have won with an RM car also.
#7356
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
And that is your problem too...you give up on one to fall back on the other...rm's are not even better outdoors on non sugared tracks either. Stick with one, figure it out, listen to the right people, and don't run bone headed set ups either. Over thinking the set up on a B5M will only result in problems.
#7358
Tech Master
And that is your problem too...you give up on one to fall back on the other...rm's are not even better outdoors on non sugared tracks either. Stick with one, figure it out, listen to the right people, and don't run bone headed set ups either. Over thinking the set up on a B5M will only result in problems.
#7359
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
lol, the setup on my MM was fine. And SRS has great traction. The last layout had a few spots that made the MM harder to drive on. It was not just me, I was talking to a few guys and they had the same issues in the same spots. Mainly areas where you need to get on and off the power hard. Like rhythm sections or low speed turns into big jumps. When ever I needed to get on the gas quickly, the rear would kick a little and thus sometimes put me on my roof, because I would twist off the jump. My diff is pretty tight, but I am thinking about maybe going tighter. Once, I get my MM car rebuilt and a new body painted up, I will probably run it again. Aside from my consistency issues with the MM, I loved the feel of it in the corners and the level jumping. I am trying to decide if i want the brass C holder or the alum. I have been using the plastic in the past. But I want more ease in tuning toe and squat. I will probably run alum on the D.
#7361
I appreciate it WC. I will just create a new thread. I feel like if i was looking through this thread for specifics on the B5M i would also get annoyed with some dude making it all about his project.
I will link to it when i start it.
jB
I will link to it when i start it.
jB
Last edited by Jason Baliban; 08-26-2014 at 10:18 AM.
#7363
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
See? There you go again...the tighter a diff is, the less it functions properly. In 17.5 which I presume is what you race, the diff should ONLY be tight enough to not bark period. A properly working diff works right along side with the sipper...not too loose, and certainly not too tight. It will allow the car to jump, accelerate and corner the was it is supposed to!
#7364
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
See? There you go again...the tighter a diff is, the less it functions properly. In 17.5 which I presume is what you race, the diff should ONLY be tight enough to not bark period. A properly working diff works right along side with the sipper...not too loose, and certainly not too tight. It will allow the car to jump, accelerate and corner the was it is supposed to!
#7365
I'm liking the way the brass knuckles (as I like to call them) feel on the C & D holders for getting more rear traction, but would like to bring the total weight of the car back down a bit to keep from blowing out a couple of corners