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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 03-26-2014, 11:05 PM
  #7291  
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Originally Posted by JVilla
hey rigor,
just wanted to say thanks. knocked off at least .5 off my times. haven't had a chance to try flat arms but laying shock down was money with those springs. appreciate it man.
Going to try moving the rear springs in as well. Hope I can see .5 second drop as well
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Old 03-26-2014, 11:10 PM
  #7292  
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Originally Posted by DG Designs
Another thing that helps is run the smallest spur possible. I'm running 66/33, puts the motor that much farther back.
I ended up running the motor all the way back and turned it into a B5. Joking aside I run a 75, was thinking of toying with a 69 if I ran into a traction issue.
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Old 03-27-2014, 12:13 AM
  #7293  
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So I saw on Bfast website they have a rebuild for the b5? I was told the other day that there is not a rebuild out yet.
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Old 03-27-2014, 03:54 AM
  #7294  
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Originally Posted by Dagolf
So I saw on Bfast website they have a rebuild for the b5? I was told the other day that there is not a rebuild out yet.
B-Fast has a kit designed for the B5.I used one(rings,ceramic balls and a
Caged thrust bearing)when I built my MM. It's silky smooth but I personally
Think if you take the time and details needed you can build a diff with the stock
Parts just as smooth.It does take some time working the rings but it can
Be done.
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Old 03-27-2014, 05:02 AM
  #7295  
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I am looking for some help...I am trying to tune my new B5m for an indoor carpet off road track. The buggy is awesome but it has a bit of high speed push in the front that I can't get rid of. I am running the following settings:
-1 Camber all around
2 degree toe out
40 weight front / 32.5 rear oil
Mini Pin rear tires, Cut Stagger slim front
Ride height is around 16.

Any suggestions to get a bit more high speed steering?

Thanks...Scott
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Old 03-27-2014, 05:17 AM
  #7296  
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Originally Posted by scraff33
I am looking for some help...I am trying to tune my new B5m for an indoor carpet off road track. The buggy is awesome but it has a bit of high speed push in the front that I can't get rid of. I am running the following settings:
-1 Camber all around
2 degree toe out
40 weight front / 32.5 rear oil
Mini Pin rear tires, Cut Stagger slim front
Ride height is around 16.

Any suggestions to get a bit more high speed steering?

Thanks...Scott
What are you running for caster and offset in your front hubs? For high grip carpet you will want to reduce caster and move the spindle forward. The kit starts with higher caster and 4mm offset.

In addition what springs are you running. You can increase spring rate in the rear to reduce traction roll and increase steering (reduce push). I would also reduce your front oil weight.
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Old 03-27-2014, 05:31 AM
  #7297  
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Caster is 5 and the trailing axle insert is 3mm. I tried to drop the oil in the front down to 37.5 but it seemed to push a bit more. Also, how about the shock mount points...any suggestions?

Thanks for the help!! Scott
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Old 03-27-2014, 05:37 AM
  #7298  
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Originally Posted by rigor
Ball diffs for OCRC since it's med to high bite. Only need those gear diffs for super high bite I believe.
Originally Posted by Skeeter36
I dont want to offend anyone but if you cant get a RM car around the track then MM probably isnt going to help you. GEAR DIFFS, Unless your on HIGH HIGH bite astro, then i dont think its worth messing with, or its for lazy people? I run on high bite dirt/clay that MM car will wheelie down the straight and we all run ball diffs w/ no issue. we will run them for 6 months w/ no gritty feeling at all. Its all in the build and break in and final sttings. I love the B5M, great car, as good or better than anything available IMO. I have owned 22 2.0, RB6,and the B5M and I prefer the B5M for its steering characteristics. I wont bore you fellas anymore but just my thoughts!!
+1000
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Old 03-27-2014, 05:37 AM
  #7299  
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This is more of a general setup question for the Avid Triad, but I set it up on the bench a little loose to then try on the track, and I don't really hear it slipping like I did with the VTS. Are there any setup tips for the triad?
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Old 03-27-2014, 05:56 AM
  #7300  
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Originally Posted by Pittsdriver
This is more of a general setup question for the Avid Triad, but I set it up on the bench a little loose to then try on the track, and I don't really hear it slipping like I did with the VTS. Are there any setup tips for the triad?
I've never heard my Triad slip like a 2 pad system and never heard the VTS specifically (perhaps this last weekend but I can't be sure). For setup I follow the AVID instructions and tighten to the point where it is hard to run the slipper with the other wheels on the bench. This method has worked very well for me as a starting point. If you want to go a little looser from there for specific track conditions then you can but personally I start there.
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Old 03-27-2014, 06:14 AM
  #7301  
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I'm looking to purchase some new batteries. I currently run the reedy square, I'm considering switching to shorties. My question is how does switching from the "brick" to shorties effect the kits handling characteristics?
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Old 03-27-2014, 06:28 AM
  #7302  
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Originally Posted by Megarcnut
I'm looking to purchase some new batteries. I currently run the reedy square, I'm considering switching to shorties. My question is how does switching from the "brick" to shorties effect the kits handling characteristics?
From my experience it loosened up the rear end.It definately takes that planted feeling away. With the brick in it I was planted in the rear and had a slight push so I changed my setup to get more steering. So you'll be doing some tuning depending on the pack you choose . They have total opposite feels
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Old 03-27-2014, 06:42 AM
  #7303  
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Originally Posted by Losi57
From my experience it loosened up the rear end.It definately takes that planted feeling away. With the brick in it I was planted in the rear and had a slight push so I changed my setup to get more steering. So you'll be doing some tuning depending on the pack you choose . They have total opposite feels
In my opinion, I didnt like the car with a saddle/square pack in it. I didnt like the added inertia and it really pushed and wasnt agile enough for what I like. If you run the shorty with a stiffer rear spring (white) it will feel like its sliding out but with a softer spring (green) the car feels planted. At least for me. I say try both and see which one you like best.
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Old 03-27-2014, 06:45 AM
  #7304  
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Question. I put the +3 on the front spindles, went to 1mm on the ackerman and wanted to center the hubs. The kit seems to only come with the 2mm plastic spacer and not 2x 1mm spacers. So I went into my box of ballstud spacers and and pulled out a couple 1mm alum washers. But after calipering them, they are only 1.98m combined. The plastic was 2.02. Does not sound like much, but the front end went from slightly tight to b4 slop. Tonight I plant to see if I have any spacers that are actually 1mm, but I would think .99mm would be fine.....on the upside, any binding I had in the front spindles went away... What are you guys using to center the hubs with the +3mm spindle config
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Old 03-27-2014, 06:47 AM
  #7305  
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Originally Posted by scraff33
Caster is 5 and the trailing axle insert is 3mm. I tried to drop the oil in the front down to 37.5 but it seemed to push a bit more. Also, how about the shock mount points...any suggestions?

Thanks for the help!! Scott
If you stand up the shocks more it can improve or reduce push. The stock set-up uses the center hole. You could try the outer hole to see if that helps. Most people used the inner hole on the tower and outer hole on the arm which will stiffen the response in the B4.2. I learned on high bite Astroturf that a more vertical shock on the front reduced push because the initial compression of the suspension was softer with the right spring/oil combination.

What holes are you using today?
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