137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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03-21-2014, 11:11 AM
#6782
Anyone know if these ball cups will work for the offset cups on the steering spindles?
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...ic-Rod-End-Set
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...ic-Rod-End-Set
03-21-2014, 11:25 AM
#6783
This is my personal experience. Dont hate if you disagree.
1-Year warranty
2- As smoother or smoother than any other brands. The throttle and braking feel can be adjusted via PWN changes
3- All alum chassis, for better cooling
4- Small form factor. Really nice for todays tiny chassis space.
5- "My" versions have pre mounted caps on top of the esc and dont require taping them down to the chassis. again, more free chassis space
6- Hand held LCD programmer about the size of a credit card
7- 8 prebuilt profiles that you can customize to whatever and quickly load track side via a single button
8- Never had an issue with them.
9- Strong customer service presence on these boards.
10- BEC up to 7v and never had a brown out
11-shuts itself of from 1-10 minutes if not input. configurable and can be disabled
Dislikes:
1- the color orange
2- sensored ONLY. if a sensor wire break mid race your done. The HW and Orion series esc's will keep going, but cog.
3- cant run a 4x4 sct with the vtx10. Not really a huge deal, but nice to have a smallish esc to run all of your 10th scale cars. Thar sais, I used a speed passion gt2.0 pro in my scte, but sold my scte and the esc it really tight in the 22 or b5 series cars.
4) if you need a fan...maybe wheeler class ( I didnt), the viper fan system is just silly. But I have never needed a fan, so meh.
My second favorite esc's are the HW v2.1 and 3.1 class of esc's. very smooth and robust, but its size, weight and the firmware swapping are annoying. But given enough chassis space, these are pimp esc's and soooooooo under rated my most people. If you only running stock 17.5, you really cant go wrong with the HW Justock for $49.99 shipped to your door
1-Year warranty
2- As smoother or smoother than any other brands. The throttle and braking feel can be adjusted via PWN changes
3- All alum chassis, for better cooling
4- Small form factor. Really nice for todays tiny chassis space.
5- "My" versions have pre mounted caps on top of the esc and dont require taping them down to the chassis. again, more free chassis space
6- Hand held LCD programmer about the size of a credit card
7- 8 prebuilt profiles that you can customize to whatever and quickly load track side via a single button
8- Never had an issue with them.
9- Strong customer service presence on these boards.
10- BEC up to 7v and never had a brown out
11-shuts itself of from 1-10 minutes if not input. configurable and can be disabled
Dislikes:
1- the color orange
2- sensored ONLY. if a sensor wire break mid race your done. The HW and Orion series esc's will keep going, but cog.
3- cant run a 4x4 sct with the vtx10. Not really a huge deal, but nice to have a smallish esc to run all of your 10th scale cars. Thar sais, I used a speed passion gt2.0 pro in my scte, but sold my scte and the esc it really tight in the 22 or b5 series cars.
4) if you need a fan...maybe wheeler class ( I didnt), the viper fan system is just silly. But I have never needed a fan, so meh.
My second favorite esc's are the HW v2.1 and 3.1 class of esc's. very smooth and robust, but its size, weight and the firmware swapping are annoying. But given enough chassis space, these are pimp esc's and soooooooo under rated my most people. If you only running stock 17.5, you really cant go wrong with the HW Justock for $49.99 shipped to your door
I havent tried it yet but a friend uses the vtx10r in his durango 4wd SC w a 4-pole motor and says its fine just use a fan,
03-21-2014, 11:50 AM
#6786
For people who switched to 3mm trailing axle, Did you also adjust the Ackermann with 1mm on the steering rack and center the caster block with 1mm shims (front & Rear) as per the instructions?
Was curious how important it is to do all three adjustments for 3mm trailing Axle or leave the rack at 2mm for now?
Have people gone to 0mm on the rack with 3mm trailing axle. Does the B5 like more Ackermann?
What has testing shown for people playing around with the front end.
Was curious how important it is to do all three adjustments for 3mm trailing Axle or leave the rack at 2mm for now?
Have people gone to 0mm on the rack with 3mm trailing axle. Does the B5 like more Ackermann?
What has testing shown for people playing around with the front end.
03-21-2014, 12:11 PM
#6787
03-21-2014, 12:11 PM
#6788
I would be interested to try a rear sway bar on this thing, will a b44 sway bar work?
03-21-2014, 12:12 PM
#6789
03-21-2014, 12:23 PM
#6790
if you don't have the caster block shimmed properly you will end up with some fairly active camber changes. probably some wacky toe issues as well.
03-21-2014, 12:33 PM
#6791
For people who switched to 3mm trailing axle, Did you also adjust the Ackermann with 1mm on the steering rack and center the caster block with 1mm shims (front & Rear) as per the instructions?
Was curious how important it is to do all three adjustments for 3mm trailing Axle or leave the rack at 2mm for now?
Have people gone to 0mm on the rack with 3mm trailing axle. Does the B5 like more Ackermann?
What has testing shown for people playing around with the front end.
Was curious how important it is to do all three adjustments for 3mm trailing Axle or leave the rack at 2mm for now?
Have people gone to 0mm on the rack with 3mm trailing axle. Does the B5 like more Ackermann?
What has testing shown for people playing around with the front end.
03-21-2014, 12:36 PM
#6792
03-21-2014, 01:32 PM
#6795
Tech Adept
Well I have a reedy saddle pack that cost waaaay more than I should've spent and just 5 months later THIS happened:
[URL=http://s.photobucket.com/user/theINQBS/media/DEX410v3/C22F0A39-6C33-4D7B-9E70-35305A0BD2B2_zpsytjqocak.jpg.html]
Approximately 30 cycles maybe because I usually run my Trak Power saddles for qualifiers) and practice and use these for mains but 10-12 cycles in and these would lose their punch a little over a minute into a run. Did several charge and discharge cycles and it remedied the issue for a few charge cycles but then began dumping again. I decided to run them for practice and setup, but today I go to work on my 410 and saw this.
You best believe I'm calling up reedy first thing in the morning!!!
[URL=http://s.photobucket.com/user/theINQBS/media/DEX410v3/C22F0A39-6C33-4D7B-9E70-35305A0BD2B2_zpsytjqocak.jpg.html]
Approximately 30 cycles maybe because I usually run my Trak Power saddles for qualifiers) and practice and use these for mains but 10-12 cycles in and these would lose their punch a little over a minute into a run. Did several charge and discharge cycles and it remedied the issue for a few charge cycles but then began dumping again. I decided to run them for practice and setup, but today I go to work on my 410 and saw this.
You best believe I'm calling up reedy first thing in the morning!!!
That's a awful lot of packs to have puff. How do u care for your packs? Do u put them into a storage charge when not using them? Leaving them charged for too long and excessive heat can cause puffing. Do u keep them out of the Sun or out of hot temperatures when not in use? I never charge my batteries mote than a hour or two before using them. I don't leave them charged after I'm done using them either.
I have ran promatch racing, venom, and turnigy lipos with out a single pack puffing. Have promatch packs that over a year old with tons of cycles that are still incredibly strong packs. I just followed the directions on promatch racings web site.