137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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03-15-2014, 01:40 PM
#6271
The kits servo horn is designed for the car, not sure if a alloy version is available yet.
03-15-2014, 01:49 PM
#6272
03-15-2014, 02:06 PM
#6273
03-15-2014, 02:19 PM
#6274
It's the same servo horn as the B4 series, same part number.
03-15-2014, 02:56 PM
#6275
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
difference in the gearbox enough to move the slipper/spur and lose gear mesh:
Last edited by Eaglesrx; 03-15-2014 at 03:18 PM.
03-15-2014, 03:17 PM
#6276
Finally got to run my new B5rm car last nite. build went perfect, slight side to side movement in the topshaft, still ran fine. I started with the kit topshaft and then swapped out for the aluminum one. Aluminum topshaft still has side to side movement, about .5mm. First I weighed them...... kit topshaft was 12 grams and aluminum was 4 grams. So about 8 grams in weight savings. I also have cut diff and idler gears and put on the old 2 pad slipper with 69 spur. I run 17.5 and wow this combo of parts in the transmission is awesome! Can't wait to put in ceramic bearings.
I had slop in the rear hub carriers and them put in the suggested set screws and that cured the problem. The slop was coming from the hub moving on the plastic toe insert.
Weighed the car in race trim and came in at 1508 grams. For gear I am running xp1015 servo, orion speedo, futaba fhss reciever, old amb pt, d3.5 motor and Reedy shorty.
Ran 1 lap faster on this layout compared to my losi mm car. Also about .5 sec faster fast lap.
I hope you guys find this info helpful and when I finish dialing in the set-up I will post my set-up.
I had slop in the rear hub carriers and them put in the suggested set screws and that cured the problem. The slop was coming from the hub moving on the plastic toe insert.
Weighed the car in race trim and came in at 1508 grams. For gear I am running xp1015 servo, orion speedo, futaba fhss reciever, old amb pt, d3.5 motor and Reedy shorty.
Ran 1 lap faster on this layout compared to my losi mm car. Also about .5 sec faster fast lap.
I hope you guys find this info helpful and when I finish dialing in the set-up I will post my set-up.
03-15-2014, 03:34 PM
#6277
Tech Adept
So for anyone that had been following along, I had been having an issue where my B5m was pretty edgy to drive, and the rear wanted to hook around on hairpins / 180's.
In the 3 previous days I had driven the car, I made some baby steps in making it more forgiving and consistent, but it still needed far more. Yesterday while at OCRC, I did manage to get the car to a decent point.
From my own tweaking / tuning, as well as speaking to and overhearing things all around OCRC, the back needs to softened up spring/oil wise, and a higher roll center by lengthening and/or lowering the rear camber links, and even laying the rear shocks down more (outside hole on lower rear arm). This finally got the car much more predictable out of sharp corner exits.
Also, the guys out at Cactus running the flat B5 arms & tower, aren't running it only there cause of the super high grip. The folks doing well with the car so far out here, are all running flat arms/tower, as they report it makes the steering more consistent, less edgy, and removes the rear hooking action I was seeing. Unfortunately they had the tower in stock but not the arms, so I'm not able to provide first hand feel on that.
I even heard that AE might have made a "mistake" and the B5m really should have come with the flat arms, and the rear motor B5 the gullwings. Coincidence that the B5 rear came with flat arms and everyone said it pushed and needed more steering, and the B5m is a bit edgy and needs the steering reduced a bit ? Maybe. Maybe not. With the kit prices being so low, it's an easy way to quickly make another $10 from every racer that wants to dial in their car.
Also over hearing that even the top AE drivers hardly had any time with the car previous to launch. I know for a fact most of the team was at OCRC 2 weeks trying to dial them in, as I was there. Again, I cannot speak with hard fact statements, just what I'm hearing through the "grapevine" down here in SoCal. Might explain why the kit setups didn't seem dialed.
In the 3 previous days I had driven the car, I made some baby steps in making it more forgiving and consistent, but it still needed far more. Yesterday while at OCRC, I did manage to get the car to a decent point.
From my own tweaking / tuning, as well as speaking to and overhearing things all around OCRC, the back needs to softened up spring/oil wise, and a higher roll center by lengthening and/or lowering the rear camber links, and even laying the rear shocks down more (outside hole on lower rear arm). This finally got the car much more predictable out of sharp corner exits.
Also, the guys out at Cactus running the flat B5 arms & tower, aren't running it only there cause of the super high grip. The folks doing well with the car so far out here, are all running flat arms/tower, as they report it makes the steering more consistent, less edgy, and removes the rear hooking action I was seeing. Unfortunately they had the tower in stock but not the arms, so I'm not able to provide first hand feel on that.
I even heard that AE might have made a "mistake" and the B5m really should have come with the flat arms, and the rear motor B5 the gullwings. Coincidence that the B5 rear came with flat arms and everyone said it pushed and needed more steering, and the B5m is a bit edgy and needs the steering reduced a bit ? Maybe. Maybe not. With the kit prices being so low, it's an easy way to quickly make another $10 from every racer that wants to dial in their car.
Also over hearing that even the top AE drivers hardly had any time with the car previous to launch. I know for a fact most of the team was at OCRC 2 weeks trying to dial them in, as I was there. Again, I cannot speak with hard fact statements, just what I'm hearing through the "grapevine" down here in SoCal. Might explain why the kit setups didn't seem dialed.
I have drove a one buddies car and couldn't believe how it had no steering. Then another buddies that had so much steering and was so twitchy I couldn't drive consistent with it. They both loved there set ups and it worked well for them. Everyone likes a certain feel or set up that's just perfect for them even though it might be un-drivable to others. That's why the newer cars get the more adjustments they add to them.
03-15-2014, 04:45 PM
#6278
Rigor is the only one that is having this problem....something about hooking??? Talked to some ae drivers and they all found it funny. Mines dialed (clay, indoors) thanks to the help of those drivers. I think it's lack of knowledge when tuning or driving.
Take the ballstud washers out on the rear brace and lay down the shocks in the back. Run 2x1.6 machined pistons all the way around and 32.5wt in the front and 30wt in the back. 69 tooth spur and run 3mm trailing axle with 1mm on the Ackerman. Also mid motor buggies like their diffs a little tight.
Take the ballstud washers out on the rear brace and lay down the shocks in the back. Run 2x1.6 machined pistons all the way around and 32.5wt in the front and 30wt in the back. 69 tooth spur and run 3mm trailing axle with 1mm on the Ackerman. Also mid motor buggies like their diffs a little tight.
03-15-2014, 05:33 PM
#6279
Rigor is the only one that is having this problem....something about hooking??? Talked to some ae drivers and they all found it funny. Mines dialed (clay, indoors) thanks to the help of those drivers. I think it's lack of knowledge when tuning or driving.
Take the ballstud washers out on the rear brace and lay down the shocks in the back. Run 2x1.6 machined pistons all the way around and 32.5wt in the front and 30wt in the back. 69 tooth spur and run 3mm trailing axle with 1mm on the Ackerman. Also mid motor buggies like their diffs a little tight.
Take the ballstud washers out on the rear brace and lay down the shocks in the back. Run 2x1.6 machined pistons all the way around and 32.5wt in the front and 30wt in the back. 69 tooth spur and run 3mm trailing axle with 1mm on the Ackerman. Also mid motor buggies like their diffs a little tight.
If you read my posts, you'd know I've been trying to tune the car with the assistance of a mechanical engineer. This individual is very well known around our parts, cause he's a nice dude, and he understands the mechanics of tuning cars; not by "run this setup" or "do this instead".... dude can ask what your car is doing wrong or what you're looking to improve, and can explain what to do and why in great detail. This is for any car; off-road, on-road, and not brand specific. So it's not like I've just been trying things at random.
And my current rear setup that made it feel better to me, is quite similar to what you described. I went to 30 oil in the back with 1.6 pistons, softer springs, 0 inner rear ballstud washers, and went to the outside hole on the lower rear arm for the shock mounting. I also went down to a 78 spur just to get the motor back a hair more.
I'm glad your team drivers out there in WI find it amusing, but the issue is real and certainly not made up. It's no coincidence all our AE guys here in OC where a ton of pro RC drivers and companies call home, have already changed to the flat arms, rear end tweaking, etc. Everyone experiencing it ? Probably not. All tracks and surfaces and driving styles are different.
Regarding driving knowledge, My buddy's Serpent 2wd mid-motor drives how I was expecting and hoping the B5m would. And no doubt the B5m will get there, just need further driving & tuning time.
Last edited by rigor; 03-15-2014 at 07:22 PM.
03-15-2014, 05:55 PM
#6280
Rigor I meant to ask if you were the only one having this problem to the forum. Amazing how periods change the way I came off, should have been ??? I apologize for not editing it. But yes I talked to a few of the guys and none had heard from the drivers out at cactus about this issue. Maybe because the track has extreme grip. I consider my local track high to med grip it depends on the age of the track. Right now it's med grip and I don't have any troubles cornering or in the sweeper.
03-15-2014, 06:01 PM
#6281
Rigor I meant to ask if you were the only one having this problem to the forum. Amazing how periods change the way I came off, should have been ??? I apologize for not editing it. But yes I talked to a few of the guys and none had heard from the drivers out at cactus about this issue. Maybe because the track has extreme grip. I consider my local track high to med grip it depends on the age of the track. Right now it's med grip and I don't have any troubles cornering or in the sweeper.
They probably didn't hear any issues from Cactus, because those guys were at OCRC 2 weeks ago already changing away from the B5m kit setup to dial in the car.
03-15-2014, 06:56 PM
#6282
Rigor
Sounds to me like you are new to mid motor , am I right ?
Sounds to me like you are new to mid motor , am I right ?
03-15-2014, 06:57 PM
#6283
Tech Adept
Front ss dirt webs solved my steering issues. Amazing tire...
03-15-2014, 07:12 PM
#6284
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
checked my build order on the gearbox. it was correct. shims wouldn't have worked either. re-measured the bearings. they were correct, as suspected, the top shaft spacer was defective. sorry, this is something that can't be hand fit and made to work as somebody suggested earlier. luckily, i have a second kit that i was able to compare top shaft spacers. take note of the measurement of the spacer. looks like i'm making another phone call to ae. still love the buggy though.
difference in the gearbox enough to move the slipper/spur and lose gear mesh:
difference in the gearbox enough to move the slipper/spur and lose gear mesh:
Whet I'm trying to say is if you don't figure out a way you will not be able to run until you get the new part right? I'm not saying you were whining, Just saying it in a general way. In this case it is good that the spacer was shorter because I would have used enough small shims on the top shaft till the spacing was correct. Then you can still race until the correct spacer arrived. Not sure what your LHS has. This is the example I was trying to convey. Adapt, react
Work to solve. Even if it's a temporary fix. There is going to be defects in the kits. You think all the fenders seats, bolts and fasteners at the Ford plant all fit like a glove? Hell no! My kit didn't have any threading on the bottom shock caps. I researched that they were the same as the b4.2 and just used my old ones. Sent AE a email with a pic. Problem solved
03-15-2014, 07:15 PM
#6285
Correct. I've driven a lot of 2wd & 4wd mod buggy in my time. Also, I can pick up my buddy's Serpent 2wd mid-motor, and it's easier to drive, and forgiving... and fast around the corners! So my situation with the B5m at the moment isn't only a driving style issue, cause I drive my buddy's car and it's super dialed. Not to mention that Serpent has several nice features the B5m lacks, and nicer equipment right in the box, all for only $40 more. Designed by Billy Easton who did the B3 / B4 I believe. Serpent is really gaining momentum here in SoCal. OCRC and another big online store down here are about to carry their cars and parts
Last edited by rigor; 03-15-2014 at 07:37 PM.