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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 03-13-2014, 10:02 PM
  #6166  
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Originally Posted by DG Designs
31 with Reedy Mach 2.
So your running a 2.22 gear ratio. I am running a 2.02. Have you ran it to see temps and speed? i have a tekin gen 2 in my car and i havent ran it yet. I have it set at 0 timing for the first run. ill run it for 4 min and see how it comes off.
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Old 03-13-2014, 10:21 PM
  #6167  
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Okay, installed the B4.2 MIP Pucks system this eve. I wouldn't suggest it for regular people, just wait for the B5 kit to come out.

It shaved off about 30g total.

Anyhow, here are a few pics. I got my running weight (minus any added weights) down to 1462g now!
I forgot my gear diff cover, so add 1g (if).


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Old 03-13-2014, 10:25 PM
  #6168  
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Originally Posted by tropmonky
Okay, installed the B4.2 MIP Pucks system this eve. I wouldn't suggest it for regular people, just wait for the B5 kit to come out.

It shaved off about 30g total.

Anyhow, here are a few pics. I got my running weight (minus any added weights) down to 1462g now!
I forgot my gear diff cover, so add 1g (if).
[/IMG]
what you do? replace the bearings too?
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Old 03-13-2014, 10:38 PM
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nope, used the rear hubs off my B4.2 and drilled out the Hub Pin hole since the B5M's are a tad bigger.
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Old 03-13-2014, 11:42 PM
  #6170  
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is it worth cutting the diff gears to shave of weight
thanks
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Old 03-14-2014, 12:22 AM
  #6171  
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Has anybody tried the Avid Satellite wheels? Do the fronts fit well? Also since the turnbuckles are the same, I assume you can use a lunsford turnbuckle set for the b4.2?
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Old 03-14-2014, 05:09 AM
  #6172  
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Originally Posted by xTotalghost
well its a 4 gear transmission now. wouldnt it change stuff?
Ratio is the same and the extra drag is probably not even measurable. Only reason i went down is the motor does not get as much air.
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Old 03-14-2014, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ronzo
is it worth cutting the diff gears to shave of weight
thanks
I cut the gears on my b4, but I really don't think it's worth it too much anymore. We used to do it for stock class back in the days of nimh batteries and brushed motors, but now with lipo and brushless you literally see no difference whatsoever. I also cut down the gear on my aluminum Topshaft and that didn't save enough weight to show up on my scale, it just couldn't register the difference.
I would just go with the aluminum Topshaft and pucks. Those savings are huge, and they don't really weaken your drivetrain.
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Old 03-14-2014, 05:46 AM
  #6174  
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Originally Posted by mxracer458
mine was tight,you just have to bend the spur a little bit and it snaps right in,no biggie
Anyone who's having issues with their spurs, try this. Took a few tries, but seated in no issue.

I'd also like to note that I don't think it's a bad run of spurs, rather the slipper "basket". I have a 78 spur I had prior to the buggy being released, and it also did not fit without forcing/flexing.
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Old 03-14-2014, 06:04 AM
  #6175  
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Originally Posted by David Joor
As aloksatoor mentioned, most likely you built the topshaft items out of order. The spacer should be captured inside the diff. The spacer is 6.88-6.90MM btw.
Hi, I believe it was captured inside the diff. But, I'll double check. Thanks for the measurements by the way.
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Old 03-14-2014, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ntJeff
Anyone who's having issues with their spurs, try this. Took a few tries, but seated in no issue.

I'd also like to note that I don't think it's a bad run of spurs, rather the slipper "basket". I have a 78 spur I had prior to the buggy being released, and it also did not fit without forcing/flexing.
Neither, you just have to snap it in. When you hear the snap its in correctly. C'mon guys. I know some of you are noobs but I have never heard so many whiners about stupid stuff like the turn buckles being too tight or the front bearings being notchy. You have to handfit something's. Period. Be adaptive and figure out how to make it work. That's the fun of building a kit.
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Old 03-14-2014, 09:35 AM
  #6177  
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^ +1
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Old 03-14-2014, 09:43 AM
  #6178  
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Originally Posted by Bubonic-X
Neither, you just have to snap it in. When you hear the snap its in correctly. C'mon guys. I know some of you are noobs but I have never heard so many whiners about stupid stuff like the turn buckles being too tight or the front bearings being notchy. You have to handfit something's. Period. Be adaptive and figure out how to make it work. That's the fun of building a kit.
haha ya building a kit is fun and making somethings work is fun,but having stuff defective is not,just have to use a little common sense when building
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Old 03-14-2014, 10:16 AM
  #6179  
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Originally Posted by Nemaris
Has anybody tried the Avid Satellite wheels? Do the fronts fit well? Also since the turnbuckles are the same, I assume you can use a lunsford turnbuckle set for the b4.2?
The Satellite wheels works great, lighter and run true. The fronts are a tad tight on the hex but I just rock the wheel a tad when taking it off, no issue. The front axles are the problem and could be tolerance differences in the axles.
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Old 03-14-2014, 10:25 AM
  #6180  
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All of my spare spurs fit so I just tossed it in the scrap parts area. Not fighting a $4 part. Must have kept this batch in the oven to long...lol
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