FlyByWire

iTrader: (28)

AKA red inserts. I think they come with them.

Ions are good up front, I run them and like them.

Barge

It's always hard to say exactly without comparing how much the car is rolling front to back.

1st thing I'd try is going less droop in the front, more in the rear (I usually do this just by tightening the shock eyelet and measuring the exposed shaft. A lot easier than ripping open shocks all the time to add or remove limiters). I've learned that shock length has a profound effect on handling and steering under severe braking.

More washers under the ball stud will make the front end roll more which "should" make it less aggressive. I say should because if it's rolling too much then it could just make it worse.

I ascribe to Fredwain's tuning methodology that I use springs and oil in concert to handle bumps and more roll center changes and such for handling itself.

More caster will also help tone things down.

Someone at the track last night was running a basically box setup B5M from what he'd said and it looked like it was rolling wayyy too much to me. So if you want to play with roll in the front do some extremes. Add a 2mm washer or drop it to no washers to expirement. Make the link as short as possible then as long as possible.

I'd say that Charlie Perez Setup Hints is also a good reference. I reference it regularly as well as this thread
Understanding Roll center
and this thread
Tune with Camber Links

Barge

Well moving the rear hubs forward places more weight on the rear wheels. On the X6 cubed pretty much everyone runs the arms and hubs forward to take advantage of this.

The thing I've found to be the #1 tuning aid for me to tame large weight transfer situation tuning has been shock length.

Jay13

iTrader: (30)

Thanks predu and Matt that clears it up. The numbers had me thinking that there were 4 different offsets because they were numbered 1-4. Makes sense now.

Bubonic-X

iTrader: (4)

the clamping axles #1408 will these work on the b5 since its all metric

predu

iTrader: (6)

yes but they are 91408 you will also need the hexes 91409 to go with them

suby723

iTrader: (21)

I am new to mm tuning but I have a wheeler that is dialed. The key to tuning this from what I feel the car Is making the car more stable and to focus on gaining more fwd traction. I lengthened rear link and went to c hub on insert.

Deluxe312

iTrader: (1)

Quite funny how expensive this shock tower is right now

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321343261129...84.m1423.l2648

chancejeff

iTrader: (1)

Im about to sell off parts on my car! Double the money I paid ha

EricW

iTrader: (1)

Add to that the slipper housing won't fit in to the 72 tooth spur that came with the kit, both mine and my kid's had the same problem.

tropmonky

iTrader: (5)

The box setup (with box springs) are on the soft side. I often see guys with the problem of the rear end coming around after coming off the gas; this is is often one of two things.
1. too much drag brake
2. Too soft of a spring on the front allowing the car to transfer too much weight to the front and the rear gets light.

I've been running between the gray front and green front springs depending on how much front end bite I need and how rough the track is.

On the rear I've been sticking with white. Please note I'm running with a ultra shorty pack with a running weight of around 1510g, running weight when at OCRC without added weight is around 1490

If you're running with a FULL SQ pack on a high bite clay track like OCRC then I would say you REALLY need to go up on the springs from the stock ones, like bad!

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

I think I'll buy a car just to part it out on ebay!

Barge

I've got a B5M sitting in a box I'm going to sell for retail... seems like I should gouge some people now hahaha

FlyByWire

iTrader: (28)

Hell if you can catch one on eBay, they're selling for 335

predu

iTrader: (6)

. see next.