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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost

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03-11-2014, 11:37 AM

#5881

AxiomJacob

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Double Dee

I went from 1588 with sq reedy pack. to orion 4000 shorty car now at 1515. My fast lap was 16.1 now 15.7. top5 15.9. I like the shorty in my b5r.

How much does your Orion shorty weight?

03-11-2014, 11:37 AM

#5882

snaketaco

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So what's the issue with the ball cups?...just kidding!

03-11-2014, 11:39 AM

#5883

Stevenich

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It's a 2s Pan Car battery.

http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...ts-74V-3200mAh

03-11-2014, 12:07 PM

#5884

rc10gt82

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DKSPLIT96

cherry, how are you orienting the battery? side to side? if so, in the front of the tray or rear? Or are you running it from front to back down the center of the tray?

Why not just try them out and see which one you like best?

03-11-2014, 12:21 PM

#5885

Bubonic-X

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971

the spurs are the same. So your wanting to remove one of the pads from the vts to convert it from a 3 pad to a 2 pad? That would yield a minimal weight change and I am unsure if it would work. I have never tried that. I either ran the vts 3pad, 2 pad system or the triad.

Not looking for weight savings just dont think the 3 pad system does anything in 17.5. Im in the middle of my build will try it when i get to that partand see if it will work as 2 padder. Not that big a deal if it doesnt

03-11-2014, 12:25 PM

#5886

predu

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rc10gt82

Why not just try them out and see which one you like best?

a shorty will only fit sideways. have you built yours yet?

03-11-2014, 12:26 PM

#5887

Wildcat1971

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then main reason most people use the 2 pad non vts configuration is weight savings and a lower rotating mass. The triad is even lighter than the 2 pad and has bigger tuning windows. If you think a slipper is not needed at all, you can get a locker.

03-11-2014, 12:30 PM

#5888

Myt3rocks

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Quote:

Originally Posted by mxracer458

All this ball cup talk is getting annoying, when i built my car i would thread them on a couple turns then back them off a couple turns and i did that until i got it where i needed it,i have no issues with the ball cup being super tight or wanting to pop off while adjusting. Just take your time with them and your good to go

I build mine with lunsford ti turnbuckles and have zero issues with the cups popping off or being hard to adjust. I had a lot more issues with my b4.1 turnbuckles not adjusting properly.

03-11-2014, 12:38 PM

#5889

Wild Cherry

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DKSPLIT96

cherry, how are you orienting the battery? side to side? if so, in the front of the tray or rear? Or are you running it from front to back down the center of the tray?

place shorty in the rear of tray with 3/16 pad behind battery.

Don't what inline for mid , needs weight close to transmission .

03-11-2014, 12:53 PM

#5890

lbckevin

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My mid motor weighed in at the JBRL at 1540g ready to run with everything and my transponder.

Weight is always measured ready to run on the track.

I mount my battery all the way back as well.

03-11-2014, 01:02 PM

#5891

lbckevin

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Had fun at the JBRL race round 1 at IERC raceway. I raced stock buggy and stock truck. I won truck and took 3rd in buggy. There were 80 entries in buggy. I used my new Team Associated B5m buggy in the main and it was working great. I used Tekin power in both classes and MIP pucks in my T4.2 truck. My new Paint Monster truck body looks awesome

03-11-2014, 01:05 PM

#5892

mxracer458

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Quote:

Originally Posted by lbckevin

cars look good kevin, i heard jbrl was a looong day.

03-11-2014, 01:11 PM

#5893

lbckevin

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Sure was John...My mains started at 130am

03-11-2014, 01:22 PM

#5894

mxracer458

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Quote:

Originally Posted by lbckevin

Sure was John...My mains started at 130am

Holy s@#t!! awesome results from a very completive field. I just picked up a rm b5 and pat just went to losi with a 22 2.0 22t. we are talking about making trip to ocrc for some racing.

03-11-2014, 01:53 PM

#5895

tropmonky

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971

well, if your going to go that route, you should remove the tires and rims also. Some of my tires weight greatly more than others. M4 holeshots weight more than a green barcode.

Perhaps you're right! I guess the bottom line is that there is no standard for stating the weight of RC vehicles.

However, the difference in weight between tires/rims and a Brick SQ battery and a pan car battery are WAAAAAAAY different; not talking about a couple grams here.

I'm leaning to your idea of the car without added weight, rims/tires and battery.

My car weight without rims/tires, battery or added weight is 1132g (with wheel nuts on).