Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
|
|||
#5131
#5132
Tech Regular
More grip is better right? I run Bar Codes now front and rear(V1 rears). I tried Typos(F&R), tire of choice for IERC in Socal. The rears had way to much side bite. They car wouldn't rotate for $hit. It felt as if it would fight thru sweepers and I couldn't hold an inside line on a 90 or 180. My 22 didn't work worth a damn in RM and MM with bar codes, it preferred BK bars and Suburb fronts.
The point is, no matter what the masses use, try different combos for yourself. Unfortunately, this is expensive. Find friends at the track during practice and borrow the different tires they have and see if they work.
Maybe I am one of 2 lucky guys on the planet with a B5r that has no push. Common denominator
The point is, no matter what the masses use, try different combos for yourself. Unfortunately, this is expensive. Find friends at the track during practice and borrow the different tires they have and see if they work.
Maybe I am one of 2 lucky guys on the planet with a B5r that has no push. Common denominator
#5133
here is my opinion, take it or leave it.
there is no more "my mid car is better than my rear car because traction is up" or vice versa. it simply boils down to driver preferance. some may disagree saying a mid car has never worked at their track. usually this is due to trying to setup a mid car like a traditional layout. some things are just done differently. that said, there are those tracks at the ends of each spectrum (super slick or loose, then ....carpet) where a certain configuration is just proven better. maybe the car choice youve made doesnt actually work, or more likely it is just far more difficult to tune that configuration to fit the track conditions so it is more efficient to go to the car with the wider 'fudge zone' (can be either style, again depends on conditions)
assuming youre on a typical undoor track with decent traction, here is how I think of it. if you like how 4wd feels better than the traditional rear motor 2wds, choose a mid motor. it feels pretty similar. otherwise go rear.
again just an opinion. and sorry if there are spelling mistakes, phones are terribl to type on late at night.
there is no more "my mid car is better than my rear car because traction is up" or vice versa. it simply boils down to driver preferance. some may disagree saying a mid car has never worked at their track. usually this is due to trying to setup a mid car like a traditional layout. some things are just done differently. that said, there are those tracks at the ends of each spectrum (super slick or loose, then ....carpet) where a certain configuration is just proven better. maybe the car choice youve made doesnt actually work, or more likely it is just far more difficult to tune that configuration to fit the track conditions so it is more efficient to go to the car with the wider 'fudge zone' (can be either style, again depends on conditions)
assuming youre on a typical undoor track with decent traction, here is how I think of it. if you like how 4wd feels better than the traditional rear motor 2wds, choose a mid motor. it feels pretty similar. otherwise go rear.
again just an opinion. and sorry if there are spelling mistakes, phones are terribl to type on late at night.
#5134
Obligatory new paint shot.
#5136
+ YouTube Video | |
EDIT: you have to go to 25 minutes - this site won't let you add a time
#5138
#5140
I had two sets of whatever comes with the lower spring cups. I think pistons and not much else. So I have that going for me. It wasn't very funny but if you want to giggle, go ahead :P
#5142
Tech Initiate
I came across something tonight many veteran racers will probably say they have known for quite a while - but I especially think it is true with this car. I have always raced stock buggy where the name of the game, in order, really is weight control, proper racing lines, and a good setup. In and out of the hobby for over two decades this has been my class of choice. I mentioned before thinking this buggy really didn't like a stock motor. Mainly due to its greater base weight. Of course that could be managed, but I thought it was just begging for a modified motor and I have had the itch to move up to the mod class anyway where weight control is not of such importance. I put a 10.5 in and ran for about a week. The difference was great. The car really responded well. But I still had the feeling the motor size was in between and I got the either do it all the way or dont do it at all feeling. So tonight was the first time with an 8.5. The car is astounding. Now I still would be in the lower ranks of a normal local modified driver pool coming from the upper ranks of stock, but wow this thing is awesome.
I am sure a very good stock class configuration will be put together, but it drives like a dream now. Actually, I think a 7.5 is probably perfection, but many of the thought to be tuning issues just dissappeared. For me, it proved my overall theory these cars are just designed to be driven with more than a stock motor. Not that stock cannot be done well, but wow what a difference. Now I just have to get smooth.........
(really not bashing the stock class because that is still where my heart is and I still run it with the B4, but just saying this car loves the added power in the current configurations)
I am sure a very good stock class configuration will be put together, but it drives like a dream now. Actually, I think a 7.5 is probably perfection, but many of the thought to be tuning issues just dissappeared. For me, it proved my overall theory these cars are just designed to be driven with more than a stock motor. Not that stock cannot be done well, but wow what a difference. Now I just have to get smooth.........
(really not bashing the stock class because that is still where my heart is and I still run it with the B4, but just saying this car loves the added power in the current configurations)
#5144
Tech Initiate
How 1993 I'm running the black wheels in this race on my RC10 B1. George probably remembers it - was an epic race weeend
EDIT: you have to go to 25 minutes - this site won't let you add a time
+ YouTube Video | |
EDIT: you have to go to 25 minutes - this site won't let you add a time
#5145
Hello guys,
If anyone could possibly help me out with some measurements I would be very thankful.
I would like to know the length of the front outer hinge pin. I know that it is 3mm in diameter but I don't know the length...
Last measurement I need is the inside length of the inner front arm(where it mounts to the bulkhead).
Thanks a lot
If anyone could possibly help me out with some measurements I would be very thankful.
I would like to know the length of the front outer hinge pin. I know that it is 3mm in diameter but I don't know the length...
Last measurement I need is the inside length of the inner front arm(where it mounts to the bulkhead).
Thanks a lot