Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

try to thread one of the "good" ones onto the shock body with the issue. I could be the threads on the body. I have always found the AE collars to be easy to cross thread because the threads are so fine and small. So I always take my time with them. Also, make sure the oring is fully seated inside the collar.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Got to drive a friends B5M right after I finished up racing my B5R this weekend. B5M is definitely faster in the turns, whereas the B5R is faster in straight lines, and does not become as upset over the ruts that have developed at LRH. Both are excellent cars, and will be winners, just depends on your track, high bite clay with a lot of 180 degree turns, and chicanes, B5M, looser bumpier conditions B5R.

RazzBarlow7

iTrader: (4)

When is the last time you had your fingers precision calibrated?

Krio

iTrader: (159)

That extra 6.25% area on top of the piston provides a surface for the pressure to act on under compression as well as for the vacuum formed during rebound. It's a wash and has no affect on compression/rebound disparity. Fluid flow resistance is all that is needed.

RazzBarlow7

iTrader: (4)

Surface area of the piston is unimportant. Surface area of the openings is what is important. This is what the fluid is going through as your piston goes up and down. Total surface area of the openings includes any holes/slots/grooves in the piston and the gap between piston and shock body inner wall combined.

lagcisco

iTrader: (40)

Alright, so I have been out of the offroad thing for a small while now, but have my hands on both B5 and B5M. Debating selling the RM, perhaps.

Since I'm in LA, what do you local LA/OC guys recommend I keep if I only keep one car? I'd be going mostly to OCRC but I do want to try out other tracks in LA/OC.

predu

iTrader: (6)

figured it out pics were too big

sharkbaitdamon

iTrader: (17)

probably stick with the b5m if mostly indoor i know ocrc is going to be mid motor same with ierc, air dawg, and even sdrc in san diego. buuuutttt if you're looking to sell the mm i'd take it off your hands

Losi57

The car was really undrivable on power with dues exact setup. The few changes I made got it drivable. It just can't be pushed hard in the turns like I know it should. I'm using all the same stuff and I am one of the faster guys. I had another guy try my bug and he said it was undrivable just like I said with dues setup. Between him and I we came up with the few changes that I made from dues setup.I understand it's a new bug and my first associated . I guess I was expecting a bunch of steering like the b4 had. I'm sure well get it figured.the only thing I got left is to try and free up the rear a lil more with the rear links and then play the tire game.

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (20)

Look what the postman just dropped off. Looks like the daughter and I have a long night ahead of us. Need to head down to Burger King, grab some Whoppers and start building!

mxracer71

just finished my build,wow a lot different then my b4 buggy and my t4.2 i built last week,plastics are a lot better,shocks feel a lot more plush then my t4.2 shocks,not sure if its because the seals fit a lot better in the body but they are butter smooth.I ended up with thielke setup to start with and see how it is. How is everyone running there shortys? back or forward? also are you adding weight anywhere to the car? my track is med bite and tires are ss/soft or some really sauced up clays.Waiting on my lid to be painted and my tires now

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

I'm running the pack forward. I would only run the pack backwards outdoors. I tested both and forward felt significantly better to me. No weight was required for plenty of steering indoors with 2mm trailing axle setup.

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

Maybe Sonic will help too.

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (20)

Nah, he just gets drunk and yells profanities at me while I build.

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

Probably steals french fries too.