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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost

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03-03-2014, 09:06 PM

#4996

DG Designs

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BillPear

Mine came in at 1582 as well outfitted just about the same as yours. Did you not have any issues with the servo horn ballstud hitting the servo? I am using the same servo and had some difficulty due to the length of the neck on the ballstud, but made it work. I'll get some photos up tomorrow.

Actually didn't notice that until just now. took the spacer off between the servo arm and the ball stud. Seems ok now. I have the servo back as far as possible, no spacers.

03-03-2014, 09:12 PM

#4997

Razathorn

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Quote:

Originally Posted by uclabruins89

I drilled them out perfectly fine. But whoever said 7/64 got the size wrong. It must be 5/64 or something, because 7/64 made them too big for the turnbuckles

That's what I used and it worked great. That's the size multiple people have used. Serious. I just double checked. I measured the turnbuckle and the drill bit and I got around .26mm difference on the shaft, even more at the tip, which isn't much, but remember you're reaming soft plastic for fine threads, much like drilling shock pistons. You've gotta go low speed and make one pass to depth then pull out at low speed too. If you spin it fast, it's done.

Mind measuring your bit at the shaft and at the tip?

Wayne

03-03-2014, 09:12 PM

#4998

uclabruins89

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Edit: luckily found a set of cups in stock at bluegroovehobbies.com. Hopefully the status was right, said 2 in stock now only 1

03-03-2014, 09:15 PM

#4999

ntJeff

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Why not just buy different ballstuds and use RPM ballcups, or one of the many other brands?

03-03-2014, 09:18 PM

#5000

DG Designs

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Quote:

Originally Posted by mxracer71

anyone want to trade some white wheels for yellow wheels

Why don't we just put some white in this body?

03-03-2014, 09:19 PM

#5001

Wild Cherry

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BillPear

If your saying you still have plenty of kits available I suggest you post in the SoCal for sale forum they'll be gone in a minute.

ha ha ha

I know that...

Let those guys that need for Cactus know ...

03-03-2014, 09:21 PM

#5002

uclabruins89

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Razathorn

shaft: 2.72 mm
tip: about 2.75mm

i did drill slowly in and out... I'll measure my turnbuckles also

03-03-2014, 09:28 PM

#5003

nordfink

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Quote:

Originally Posted by uclabruins89

Edit: luckily found a set of cups in stock at bluegroovehobbies.com. Hopefully the status was right, said 2 in stock now only 1

that's my lhs & track, Dave has all kinds of random b5 parts...

03-03-2014, 09:29 PM

#5004

Razathorn

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Quote:

Originally Posted by uclabruins89

shaft: 2.72 mm
tip: about 2.75mm

i did drill slowly in and out... I'll measure my turnbuckles also

I bet this is going to come down to tolerances/straightness and the 7/64 is just too close for comfort. I guess we just got lucky. Mine feel perfect and haven't slipped at all.

Wayne

03-03-2014, 09:31 PM

#5005

Mxer59

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What's everyone preferring for stock 17.5 racing?
Shorty or saddles

03-03-2014, 09:34 PM

#5006

tropmonky

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971

The b4 shocks have nothing on the new shocks. I dont think I have seen cav or anyone else use the gold shafts in their new shocks. The explained why the gold shafts were not better. The changed the shock bodies to tighten the tolerances in the section with the orings. And personally, I see no issue with the plastic shock caps.

When you're sponsored and get parts at low low prices or for free sure, you don't need the TiN coated shock shafts. However I've found that the coating does two things that are great for club racers. Not to mention if it wasn't a good thing to have then why do you see just about all the manufacturers using it?

1. The coating is harder thus the shafts last longer with less wear on the diameter of the shaft.
2. You can SEE how the shock shafts wear throughout time, when the coating is showing thin or rubbed off completely you know it's time for a new set. You can't SEE any difference when the shafts have no coating.

The composite shock caps are just fine. I rebuild my shocks quite a bit and plastic bits just don't last very long in this sort of situation. Again, if you get them for free or at like 50% off then it's not a big deal to just buy more, but I like things that last. Also, the shock bushings are steel for the B5 kit VS aluminum ones on the older FT B4.2's.

Anyhow, here are a few shots of the car, all ready for the JBRL race at IERC. Excuse the poor paint job, but I had to paint it before running so I could see the car at OCRC last Sunday. A 30sec paint job.

BTW, it's currently setup with a Reedy 17.5 and a Protek 3000mah shorty pack.

03-03-2014, 09:37 PM

#5007

Mxer59

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How does the LRP FLOW do? I'm used to ORION R10 was debating the switch

03-03-2014, 09:44 PM

#5008

ntJeff

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Mxer59

How does the LRP FLOW do? I'm used to ORION R10 was debating the switch

In my experience, the Orion is much better, and easier to program.

03-03-2014, 09:50 PM

#5009

chancejeff

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So how would I go about loosening up the front hinge pins because currently the arms dont move freely. I have read people use dremels but I dont currently have one, so what are some other ways?

03-03-2014, 10:34 PM

#5010

gticlay

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry

Don't feel bad & don't ever expect hostility from me.

Still have plenty of kits Bill, to be honest ? Don't know exact number can only guess, around 50 plus arrived last Saturday.

Have mass wrench N ahead.
2 kits !!!! to build this week.

Getting
Lunsford Ti rods & front axles
Shorty servo
TiN coated ball studs
Xrings for shocks
Stainless screws
Blue servo mounts
Twin pad slipper
Ceramic diff balls
7.5 reedy & Flow
and what ever I forgot....

I could use the regular ballstuds if you don't need them. PM me.