54LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
03-09-2017, 12:23 AM - Wikipost
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06-02-2014, 07:48 PM
#4996
I'm still figuring the car out, and have only scanned the past couple dozen pages to try to get caught up, but here's where I'm at
Med to high traction (of course) 1.6 flats machined 30-35 depending on factors, greys front whites rear, I tried zero anti squat, my thinking that I could use a little squat with this thing, but I still went back to 1 deg of anti squat and was happy. Usually 2.5 toe, sometimes 3 never 3.5 but I run stock. If you can't drive it with the back end I don't think the mid motor is for you. Shorty back, cut the fore two braces, mainly to giver just a touch of twist and liked that, but my suspension is all carbon. I hate deflection in the towers and arms and knuckles and such. The "good plastic" seems to be a touch heavier, IMO worth it, but only leading to more weight savings to find elsewhere. Shorty servo, does anyone use the futaba shorty servo and how do you like it???? I got the spektrum shorty in there and it's only OK. Front shocks Mid up, out down, rear shocks middle top inside bottom, Inside inside on the front links, with 1mm, kit rear link with 2mm. Proline Ions, MC, Phantom body with Proline wing, 3mm trailing with 1mm on the rack. I never post gearing and timing because I mess with it so much, and you can always ask me at the track and I'll tell you, but it's hardly the same until I have had a car for a long time. When I don't mess up my tyre prep this thing was ridiculous fast. This setup really made the car work for me, and I finally fell in love with it. This car is just stupid fun to drive when it handles right, but I hated it in the face for like 5 or 6 weeks while I worked on figuring it out.
So those are my current thoughts on the car, hopefully useful to the group
One question and sorry if I'm just out of the loop, but no currently available name brand type carbon fiber chassis is available yet, correct?? I really think that's what this car needs to come fully alive, the firm, predictable stable twist of carbon, aluminum thick enough not to twist is just to thick to make a chassis out of, and even with all the braces it twists, and it needs to, just a little to take the nervousness out. This is exactly the time for carbon fiber, hopefully with a stiff and soft option even if we're lucky, but I can't find anything other than some prototypes and handbuilt, right???
Med to high traction (of course) 1.6 flats machined 30-35 depending on factors, greys front whites rear, I tried zero anti squat, my thinking that I could use a little squat with this thing, but I still went back to 1 deg of anti squat and was happy. Usually 2.5 toe, sometimes 3 never 3.5 but I run stock. If you can't drive it with the back end I don't think the mid motor is for you. Shorty back, cut the fore two braces, mainly to giver just a touch of twist and liked that, but my suspension is all carbon. I hate deflection in the towers and arms and knuckles and such. The "good plastic" seems to be a touch heavier, IMO worth it, but only leading to more weight savings to find elsewhere. Shorty servo, does anyone use the futaba shorty servo and how do you like it???? I got the spektrum shorty in there and it's only OK. Front shocks Mid up, out down, rear shocks middle top inside bottom, Inside inside on the front links, with 1mm, kit rear link with 2mm. Proline Ions, MC, Phantom body with Proline wing, 3mm trailing with 1mm on the rack. I never post gearing and timing because I mess with it so much, and you can always ask me at the track and I'll tell you, but it's hardly the same until I have had a car for a long time. When I don't mess up my tyre prep this thing was ridiculous fast. This setup really made the car work for me, and I finally fell in love with it. This car is just stupid fun to drive when it handles right, but I hated it in the face for like 5 or 6 weeks while I worked on figuring it out.
So those are my current thoughts on the car, hopefully useful to the group
One question and sorry if I'm just out of the loop, but no currently available name brand type carbon fiber chassis is available yet, correct?? I really think that's what this car needs to come fully alive, the firm, predictable stable twist of carbon, aluminum thick enough not to twist is just to thick to make a chassis out of, and even with all the braces it twists, and it needs to, just a little to take the nervousness out. This is exactly the time for carbon fiber, hopefully with a stiff and soft option even if we're lucky, but I can't find anything other than some prototypes and handbuilt, right???
06-02-2014, 08:00 PM
#4998
For RM many run 2-2.5 anti-squat and for MM 0-1 is generally the better tuning option. It's how I tuned my rm/mm convertible 22 2.0 with great results. Now that I'm switching to a b5m with no compromises I assume the same tuning applies. The link posted above is a great read for how anti-squat works.
The key that many locals and racers on here have learned is that tuning an mm setup is much different than rm. It's more of a finesse feel vs. rm aggressive feel. Hard for me to explain, but it's how I personally think of the differences. I'm still learning it after years of rm. With my B5m due tomorrow, I'll be learning with a new platform how mm works.
The key that many locals and racers on here have learned is that tuning an mm setup is much different than rm. It's more of a finesse feel vs. rm aggressive feel. Hard for me to explain, but it's how I personally think of the differences. I'm still learning it after years of rm. With my B5m due tomorrow, I'll be learning with a new platform how mm works.
06-02-2014, 09:48 PM
#4999
Not really that complicated, common sense really.
If you know the track has change ?
Adjust the car to allow for the change.
Most do not and suffer...
Go figure...
However, does take time to learn how to drive a mid .
The old point & shoot style of driving is history.
If you know the track has change ?
Adjust the car to allow for the change.
Most do not and suffer...
Go figure...
However, does take time to learn how to drive a mid .
The old point & shoot style of driving is history.
06-02-2014, 10:28 PM
#5000
Tech Adept
I am running a reedy mach 1 17.5 with 33/69 and 42degrees and I came off the track at 150 after a full 10 min of laps.
06-03-2014, 07:59 AM
#5001
When the outside ribs start wearing off your favorite front tires do you keep running them as is, cut the ribs off, or toss em? Proline says the ribs are there to reduce the aggressiveness of them and I've run fronts with the ribs gone before but wondering what you guys do. Scrubs or barcodes are a good example.
New tires steer less, not a bad or good thing. Just account for when your tuning.
Hope you have gone to the inline , just do it if you have not Clayton.
Don't make me come up there and show you.
Promise you will put the hurt on Nate with.
Even Scott said yesterday I sure pick up the pace.
Tip
I never practice with my B5, instead over the last 3 weeks been practicing with the B44.
4w takes more ability to drive well & knowing to drive either well makes you far more capable then someone who only runs a 2w.
06-03-2014, 08:39 AM
#5002
Half worn will steer more cept if dusty.
New tires steer less, not a bad or good thing. Just account for when your tuning.
Hope you have gone to the inline , just do it if you have not Clayton.
Don't make me come up there and show you.
Promise you will put the hurt on Nate with.
Even Scott said yesterday I sure pick up the pace.
Tip
I never practice with my B5, instead over the last 3 weeks been practicing with the B44.
4w takes more ability to drive well & knowing to drive either well makes you far more capable then someone who only runs a 2w.
New tires steer less, not a bad or good thing. Just account for when your tuning.
Hope you have gone to the inline , just do it if you have not Clayton.
Don't make me come up there and show you.
Promise you will put the hurt on Nate with.
Even Scott said yesterday I sure pick up the pace.
Tip
I never practice with my B5, instead over the last 3 weeks been practicing with the B44.
4w takes more ability to drive well & knowing to drive either well makes you far more capable then someone who only runs a 2w.
06-03-2014, 08:57 AM
#5003
When the outside ribs start wearing off your favorite front tires do you keep running them as is, cut the ribs off, or toss em? Proline says the ribs are there to reduce the aggressiveness of them and I've run fronts with the ribs gone before but wondering what you guys do. Scrubs or barcodes are a good example.
06-03-2014, 09:06 AM
#5004
Tech Elite
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tbird.... on the brakes you want just enough to slow the car quickly.. not lock up the back.. the whole idea is to carry your corner speed.. that's were races are won.. if you figure there are 8-12 corners on a typical offroad track.. if you can gain even 1/4 a second a corner then your 2-3 seconds a lap faster!!!! Huge difference.
also be careful if your running the stock slipper as if you run it to loose the metal disc between the pads will get to hot and cause the discs to swell and the slipper becomes inconsistent and make your car start feeling looser about halfway thru the race.
the vented vs slipper discs from associated are way lighter and much more consistant.. easy and inexpensive switch.
also be careful if your running the stock slipper as if you run it to loose the metal disc between the pads will get to hot and cause the discs to swell and the slipper becomes inconsistent and make your car start feeling looser about halfway thru the race.
the vented vs slipper discs from associated are way lighter and much more consistant.. easy and inexpensive switch.
I just felt like the car wasn't braking hard enough after the straight; again, it was a loose outdoor track, so YMMV. With the brakes set up for my B4.2 (and everything else in the speedo the same), it was fine everywhere else on the track, but the end of the straight going into the 180 it got loose.
I got up early this morning to try out my new Wolfpack shorty and a little different setup. I really do like how it drives with the shorty but honestly, I'm still not happy with it - the car is still difficult to drive. Man, my B5RM had so much traction coming on to the straight that it could do wheelies sometimes. B5M, not so much. I actually went so far as to put .5 toe in out back. It's worst coming on to the straight and when off power coasting into sharp turns. Starting to wonder if the MM just isn't for me. The 4wd car on the other hand was a really treat to drive today! I just can't get enough of driving that car!
06-03-2014, 09:15 AM
#5006
Half worn will steer more cept if dusty.
New tires steer less, not a bad or good thing. Just account for when your tuning.
Hope you have gone to the inline , just do it if you have not Clayton.
Don't make me come up there and show you.
Promise you will put the hurt on Nate with.
Even Scott said yesterday I sure pick up the pace.
Tip
I never practice with my B5, instead over the last 3 weeks been practicing with the B44.
4w takes more ability to drive well & knowing to drive either well makes you far more capable then someone who only runs a 2w.
New tires steer less, not a bad or good thing. Just account for when your tuning.
Hope you have gone to the inline , just do it if you have not Clayton.
Don't make me come up there and show you.
Promise you will put the hurt on Nate with.
Even Scott said yesterday I sure pick up the pace.
Tip
I never practice with my B5, instead over the last 3 weeks been practicing with the B44.
4w takes more ability to drive well & knowing to drive either well makes you far more capable then someone who only runs a 2w.
Curious - how is the 2.4 wheel doing there? Are people still cutting up barcodes to fit on the AKA rims or what? I was thinking that by next winter, 2.2 will be all but dead like when we moved from 2.0's way back when.
06-03-2014, 09:24 AM
#5007
So, coming from a tlr buggy, I assume I can't use the rims/tires from it? I do have the front axle/clamp setup ready for install, but can't find the rear in stock anywhere. Does this mean I can use my DE racing rims from my losi on the front, but not the rear ones yet?
06-03-2014, 09:27 AM
#5008
not into debating which is to drive Ryeau 
My reason for such a statement
#1 4w requires far more throttle control because you can't just lift power & glide flat on landings. Lift power all the way & expect a big nose dive with 4w. Driver needs to hold more on power throttle in the corner as well.
#2
2w has far better suspension & can land harder with no slap.
4w has to be landed on every down hill ramp off the jumps and has to be driven smoother.
A wheeler is a must have tool in any pit box .
GTI
still using the AKA rim & Jc tire.
Better when traction comes up .
also still using Jc with standard rim when traction is down, both perform well.
Best part about the
combination is you can get a second life out of the AKA insert by trimming off the inside bars .
My reason for such a statement
#1 4w requires far more throttle control because you can't just lift power & glide flat on landings. Lift power all the way & expect a big nose dive with 4w. Driver needs to hold more on power throttle in the corner as well.
#2
2w has far better suspension & can land harder with no slap.
4w has to be landed on every down hill ramp off the jumps and has to be driven smoother.
A wheeler is a must have tool in any pit box .
GTI
still using the AKA rim & Jc tire.
Better when traction comes up .
also still using Jc with standard rim when traction is down, both perform well.
Best part about the
combination is you can get a second life out of the AKA insert by trimming off the inside bars .
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 06-03-2014 at 09:56 AM.
06-03-2014, 09:58 AM
#5010
3 vs 4 gear has absolutely nothing to do with motor placement. It changes how the torque of the motor is applied to the chassis. That's all.