Originally Posted by Ragsrc

Anyone know when that pictured Reedy ESC will be available? I'm trying to decide whether to hold out on doing a Reedy ESC w/ Mach 2 17.5 or go Tekin RS Pro Gen 2 17.5. Thanks for your opinions!

Originally Posted by Razathorn

I just sold my RB6. Ran it in mid motor and rear motor. Did very well with it. What would you like to know? Both are great cars. I think the only real big advantage the AE has on the RB6 right now is the adjustable front trailing axle -- that really makes RM on small tight tracks so much better. Other than that, I can't say anything extremely one way or another on either. The RB6 is nice that you can convert it, but damn, the b5 in RM is so super plush--up until driving my new b5, I would have always given the nod to kyosho on shocks, but the b5 is like a frigg'n cat, and I can't explain why, it just is.

Feel free to ask specifics.

Wayne

Originally Posted by Mxer59

I have the Kyosho now and I just can't get it to drive to my style of driving, it does not like to be ran aggresive it likes to push on power or even mid turn on all my different setup changes I either gain or lose one or the other. My current track has a lot of turns and the 22-b4.1-2 are just lot more constant and can power on through the corner as where I feel I have to baby it a littler more in the turn. Just curious I guess on how it drives can you be aggresive more with it compared to the rb6

Originally Posted by VegasHB

I think the big fix for the push is going to the 3mm front insert setup. I haven't had a chance to try it yet. Most of the newer team setups seem to go this route.

Originally Posted by Captcha

I went to 3mm and added no shims to the ackerman like they were and my car is planted. A few pages back I posted my exact setup I ran this weekend, and the car was the best it has felt since putting it together.

Originally Posted by Sean Cochran

175mm would be ideal but we are using 200mm.

Originally Posted by Grasschopper

Ok...why the 3mm insert and not the 30* kick up? Just looking for reasoning of the difference in the adjustments, I'm not good at tuning so I'm really looking for the whys of why your way might or might not be better.

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry

Already driven with both .
Differences between the two on the track is very small.

The new plastic is already a lot stiffer the old b4 plastic which explains why .

Originally Posted by BHammer002

Wayne,

I was pretty close to what you posted here. Had brown in front with 30wt and black in rear with 25 wt with 1mm still on the steering rack. Started to go off the rails and added weight - knew I wanted to start over at that point. Yanked the weight and went over to your posted setup for a try. Was wondering if you had experimented with the .5 rear hub. I had it and the 30 degree kick up in and couldnt decide if it added more push than helped the rear end. Plan to be running it tonight at Kcrc.

Originally Posted by Grasschopper

Ok...why the 3mm insert and not the 30* kick up? Just looking for reasoning of the difference in the adjustments, I'm not good at tuning so I'm really looking for the whys of why your way might or might not be better.

Originally Posted by VegasHB

I believe the 30* kick up is more for corner entry. My feeling was that car had more mid corner push and through sweepers.

However, reading through the manual tuning tips they say the same about the 3mm trailing axle adjustment.....so now i'm curious as well.

I feel the 30* caster would have an effect on the suspension setting as well so maybe the trailing axle is a less drastic measure. Can anyone confirm?

Originally Posted by ntJeff

George, you know when TRCR is getting more B5's in stock? I know Scott's in Hawaii atm, maybe Gene would know??