137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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02-21-2014, 04:47 PM
#4081
02-21-2014, 05:00 PM
#4082
Bearings
So the stock bearings feel like they're packed with grease for a boat trailer... and I can't see where to order Schelle's. Avid has two B5 kits listed for rear motor, B5 and B5 RS. Can someone please inform of the difference and verify this kit will cover every bearing in the buggy? I realize the stock can be cleaned and reoiled... I'd rather have the Revolution or some that roll more free.
Thanks
Thanks
02-21-2014, 05:08 PM
#4083
So the stock bearings feel like they're packed with grease for a boat trailer... and I can't see where to order Schelle's. Avid has two B5 kits listed for rear motor, B5 and B5 RS. Can someone please inform of the difference and verify this kit will cover every bearing in the buggy? I realize the stock can be cleaned and reoiled... I'd rather have the Revolution or some that roll more free.
Thanks
Thanks
02-21-2014, 05:27 PM
#4085
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
Absolute Hobbyz. I bought mine here. These guys are great and super fast shipping!
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...ducts_id=15945
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...ducts_id=15945
02-21-2014, 05:37 PM
#4087
So the stock bearings feel like they're packed with grease for a boat trailer... and I can't see where to order Schelle's. Avid has two B5 kits listed for rear motor, B5 and B5 RS. Can someone please inform of the difference and verify this kit will cover every bearing in the buggy? I realize the stock can be cleaned and reoiled... I'd rather have the Revolution or some that roll more free.
Thanks
Thanks
02-21-2014, 05:45 PM
#4088
I can't speak to the kit. I ordered mine before there was a kit, i went page by page in the manual and ordered what i needed bearing by bearing, plus some extras. Looking at the B5 Kit you dont need the 8qty 3x7x3 as those are for the steering rack, you dont necessarily need the 2qty 5x8x2.5 as those are for the diff. Everything else in the kit looks legit, dont know the difference in the B5 and the B5 RS kits though...they look the same to me.
02-21-2014, 06:05 PM
#4089
I can't speak to the kit. I ordered mine before there was a kit, i went page by page in the manual and ordered what i needed bearing by bearing, plus some extras. Looking at the B5 Kit you dont need the 8qty 3x7x3 as those are for the steering rack, you dont necessarily need the 2qty 5x8x2.5 as those are for the diff. Everything else in the kit looks legit, dont know the difference in the B5 and the B5 RS kits though...they look the same to me.
02-21-2014, 07:21 PM
#4091
I don't run big dog too often. Ran mcculloughs almost every Saturday last year. Went to mcculloughs on opening day of indoor this year then took 3 months off. I'm back now. Ran bula last week. It's a great layout and its nice to run treaded tires on high bite. Finished my b5 tonight and will install the speedo tomorrow then back to bula next weekend.
02-21-2014, 07:40 PM
#4092
Absolute Hobbyz. I bought mine here. These guys are great and super fast shipping!
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...ducts_id=15945
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...ducts_id=15945
02-21-2014, 08:49 PM
#4093
02-21-2014, 10:39 PM
#4094
Hitting the track tomorrow for the first time with my b5. I am starting off with an adaptation of my b4 setup that I worked long and hard on before getting a RB6 for the fall.
Springs
I'm starting with black fronts and green rears (extensive spring testing done last year on the b4 for my track.) This is one step softer than the generally accepted green/white setup, but our track can get super tacky or dry, and in order to get traction at all times, you have to run significantly lighter damping than is ideal with the green/white combo, causing the car to be under damped and very touchy/twitchy when the traction came around. The compromise, on the b4, was to run back/green with the damping needed for traction, and then the car would not be under damped—the draw back being that the car is a bit under sprung when the traction comes around, making it a bit less fast / responsive as it could be, but that is WAY easier to drive than a really twitchy car. So how does this translate to the b5? Well, one of our local team drivers started with green/green and reported that he went up to white in the rear for some steering and to bleed off traction, and it was good, but super twitchy when the traction came around. This sounds just like my testing with the b4, so I'm going to start with my spring combo from it, but I have the green/whites in the box if need be.
Pistons and Oil
I'm starting with 3x1.4 pistons with 32/30 oil. I have never ran the 3x1.4, but I played with the 1.6 and 1.7 pistons a lot last year before the 3 holes were really a thing and found that the 1.6s offered lots of pack but huge steps in damping tuning, while the 1.7s offered more damping tuning, but not nearly as much pack. The general consensus from the rest of my AE buds at the track is that the 3x1.4s were the happy middle ground for the 2wd, so that's where I'm going first.
Stroke
I'll be starting with 19.5 front stroke and 26.75 rear stroke. This is "one limiter less" or ".75mm more droop" than my old b4 setup, but I'm starting there because the trend seems to be a hair more droop than was run on the b4 for the team setups. It is going to be one of the first things I "fix" if it performs bad, as I *really* preferred less droop, especially in the front, in my b4 for on power stability and on power steering. I've heard a lot about on power push on this thread, and I bet going to 18.75 front stroke is where I will end up, like I had on my b4. One thing that I really noticed a lot with the b4 big bore was that people tended to not screw the shock eyes in all the way and they would come up to me and say "what's wrong with this car?!" and I would measure their stroke and say "well, you didn't screw the shock eyes in all the way". It wasn't their fault--the V2 shocks would strip the eyes if you went any further than where they stopped, but the BB eyes need to be screwed in significantly further than when they initially stop. The biggest offender was the rear shocks as they made the car loop out under power. I would inform people that if you have a 27.5 stroke shaft, and two limiters, then you should be able to measure 27.5 - (2 x .75) = 26mm between the eyelet and cartridge. I was delighted to see that the new setup sheets are including the stroke as this is super critical since many of us install our "max number" of limiters and then unscrew the ends to tune.
Battery Position
I'll be starting with rear for our current track layout as it heavily favors 180s and throttle bursts over corner speed, plus the smactrac setups trended towards rear and it was very slippery there, which is what we deal with a lot of the time. I preferred forward on my b4, but I don't feel this even remotely compares to the b5, so I'm starting fresh here!
Team Setup Starting Points
All other settings such as ball stud washers, anti squat, toe, wing angle, camber link positions, etc all came from the team starting setup from RC10.com.
Good to be back on AE. I enjoyed my time with my Kyosho cars, but it was time to return home.
Wayne
Springs
I'm starting with black fronts and green rears (extensive spring testing done last year on the b4 for my track.) This is one step softer than the generally accepted green/white setup, but our track can get super tacky or dry, and in order to get traction at all times, you have to run significantly lighter damping than is ideal with the green/white combo, causing the car to be under damped and very touchy/twitchy when the traction came around. The compromise, on the b4, was to run back/green with the damping needed for traction, and then the car would not be under damped—the draw back being that the car is a bit under sprung when the traction comes around, making it a bit less fast / responsive as it could be, but that is WAY easier to drive than a really twitchy car. So how does this translate to the b5? Well, one of our local team drivers started with green/green and reported that he went up to white in the rear for some steering and to bleed off traction, and it was good, but super twitchy when the traction came around. This sounds just like my testing with the b4, so I'm going to start with my spring combo from it, but I have the green/whites in the box if need be.
Pistons and Oil
I'm starting with 3x1.4 pistons with 32/30 oil. I have never ran the 3x1.4, but I played with the 1.6 and 1.7 pistons a lot last year before the 3 holes were really a thing and found that the 1.6s offered lots of pack but huge steps in damping tuning, while the 1.7s offered more damping tuning, but not nearly as much pack. The general consensus from the rest of my AE buds at the track is that the 3x1.4s were the happy middle ground for the 2wd, so that's where I'm going first.
Stroke
I'll be starting with 19.5 front stroke and 26.75 rear stroke. This is "one limiter less" or ".75mm more droop" than my old b4 setup, but I'm starting there because the trend seems to be a hair more droop than was run on the b4 for the team setups. It is going to be one of the first things I "fix" if it performs bad, as I *really* preferred less droop, especially in the front, in my b4 for on power stability and on power steering. I've heard a lot about on power push on this thread, and I bet going to 18.75 front stroke is where I will end up, like I had on my b4. One thing that I really noticed a lot with the b4 big bore was that people tended to not screw the shock eyes in all the way and they would come up to me and say "what's wrong with this car?!" and I would measure their stroke and say "well, you didn't screw the shock eyes in all the way". It wasn't their fault--the V2 shocks would strip the eyes if you went any further than where they stopped, but the BB eyes need to be screwed in significantly further than when they initially stop. The biggest offender was the rear shocks as they made the car loop out under power. I would inform people that if you have a 27.5 stroke shaft, and two limiters, then you should be able to measure 27.5 - (2 x .75) = 26mm between the eyelet and cartridge. I was delighted to see that the new setup sheets are including the stroke as this is super critical since many of us install our "max number" of limiters and then unscrew the ends to tune.
Battery Position
I'll be starting with rear for our current track layout as it heavily favors 180s and throttle bursts over corner speed, plus the smactrac setups trended towards rear and it was very slippery there, which is what we deal with a lot of the time. I preferred forward on my b4, but I don't feel this even remotely compares to the b5, so I'm starting fresh here!
Team Setup Starting Points
All other settings such as ball stud washers, anti squat, toe, wing angle, camber link positions, etc all came from the team starting setup from RC10.com.
Good to be back on AE. I enjoyed my time with my Kyosho cars, but it was time to return home.
Wayne
02-21-2014, 11:41 PM
#4095
I can't speak to the kit. I ordered mine before there was a kit, i went page by page in the manual and ordered what i needed bearing by bearing, plus some extras. Looking at the B5 Kit you dont need the 8qty 3x7x3 as those are for the steering rack, you dont necessarily need the 2qty 5x8x2.5 as those are for the diff. Everything else in the kit looks legit, dont know the difference in the B5 and the B5 RS kits though...they look the same to me.