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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 02-20-2014, 06:17 AM
  #3871  
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Also speaking of setup for those that are not following the B5Nation group on facebook, I have been dialing in a setup for outdoor/blue groove/high traction track.

Front:
3mm trailing axle
32.5 AE oil
Green spring
-1* camber
1* toe out

Rear:
30 weight AE oil
White spring
-1* camber
3.5* toe in
2* anti squat
2mm infront of hub

Orange barcodes all around.

I also have .25 FT ae stick on weight on the servo because I was under weight at our last race.
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Old 02-20-2014, 06:29 AM
  #3872  
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I started building mine last night, really impressed with the front end and steering rack.. Only hickup I ran into was the rear shock tower, the 2 screws towards the rear were too long and ended up hitting the screws from below.. In the end I think I had the screws for the front skit plate suspension mount in the back and had the shorter ones (the right ones) in the front..

Does your guys cars have a lot of front to rear slop in the rear a arms? AE slop is good in my past experience though??
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Old 02-20-2014, 06:34 AM
  #3873  
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Originally Posted by Sf1752
I started building mine last night, really impressed with the front end and steering rack.. Only hickup I ran into was the rear shock tower, the 2 screws towards the rear were too long and ended up hitting the screws from below.. In the end I think I had the screws for the front skit plate suspension mount in the back and had the shorter ones (the right ones) in the front..

Does your guys cars have a lot of front to rear slop in the rear a arms? AE slop is good in my past experience though??
After roughly 6 days of driving, I would estimate 25-30 packs, I have very minimal slop on the car. I took it apart monday down to chassis, and inspected parts, cleaned everything, soaked bearings, yada yada, and the only thing i replaced were 2 front bearings that were not rolling freely. Other than that I feel like I own an xray, parts in my box that are NIP and don't look to be getting use anytime soon.
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Old 02-20-2014, 06:35 AM
  #3874  
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Originally Posted by Razathorn
Nice. After greasing the threads AND working the threads with a drill, my ball cups still pop right off whenever I try to make adjustments. What is the deal with these things?!
I dunno, man. I was flamed for three pages after saying the same thing several pages back. Went back and greased them, but was too worried about stripping them, like you said, to use a drill to thread into plastic. Mine are acceptable now. Hope you get it fixed.

Changed some adjustments from what some people have said here and car is close to dialed. Still need a bit more rear traction now that the push is gone. Thinking dropping the kit setup shock weight will help.
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Old 02-20-2014, 07:03 AM
  #3875  
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Originally Posted by nazman01
Im with ya. I did the same with the same results. I have to hold ine cup with plyers to adjust camber. Oh well
Not to get back on the subject again but what tie rods are you using. Myself plus many others have used the JCon tie rods without issue.
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Old 02-20-2014, 07:20 AM
  #3876  
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Originally Posted by Razathorn
Nice. After greasing the threads AND working the threads with a drill, my ball cups still pop right off whenever I try to make adjustments. What is the deal with these things?!
Get these shorter ones Lunsford is selling for the B5
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...egory_Code=NEW
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Old 02-20-2014, 07:45 AM
  #3877  
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I reamed the ends of the ballcups with a body reamer and that, combined with some grease on the threads have worked great for me. I can adjust with ease now.
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Old 02-20-2014, 07:56 AM
  #3878  
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I threaded off and on like 10 times & combined with chapstick, they adjust smooth as ever. Just takes some work.
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:02 AM
  #3879  
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Originally Posted by nordfink
I threaded off and on like 10 times & combined with chapstick, they adjust smooth as ever. Just takes some work.
I threaded them most of the way in and 'worked' them in by threading in/out a few times, no power tools required.
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:33 AM
  #3880  
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Originally Posted by BHammer002
I dunno, man. I was flamed for three pages after saying the same thing several pages back.
Yeah, I saw that. I thought you were right on, although I think it's less about material and more about their sizing paired with the rods.

Wayne
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:35 AM
  #3881  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
I threaded them most of the way in and 'worked' them in by threading in/out a few times, no power tools required.
Same, but with grease, just did by hand, back and forth like anything else

Do we still pass that tidbit along?? The old 3 threads in 1 thread back when tapping new holes with screws?? Same thing for the ball cups, just always be aware when you're cutting new threads, back and forth, back and forth, side to side, back and forth.

http://youtu.be/WVvlVHdLCx0
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:36 AM
  #3882  
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Yeah, I used ChapStick for the threads.
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:37 AM
  #3883  
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Originally Posted by gticlay
Get these shorter ones Lunsford is selling for the B5
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...egory_Code=NEW
yeah love the Lunsford ..

Ballcups thread on smooth and their classy look kills.
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:52 AM
  #3884  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Kit springs and oil are great for most tracks ,myself ?

I just punch it ....
Originally Posted by Kave
WC you don't run kit setups. Lets not pretend here.
Unless he bought one and didn't tell anyone (highly unlikely) Cherry doesn't even own this car. So all his set up advice in here is either; not his own, or pretend.
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:56 AM
  #3885  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
yeah love the Lunsford ..

Ballcups thread on smooth and their classy look kills.
Has there been any video of the fast guys @ TRCR racing their B5s?
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