Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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#3061
Tech Addict
iTrader: (47)
I fill the shock, compress the shaft a few times (to get the bubbles out) and let it sit for a couple of minutes, place the cap on without the bleeder screw in compress the shock slowly to the top then screw in the bleeder screw. Then I compress the shock multiple times, then done. Some people bleed the shocks an extra time after performing these steps. I do all of this with the shock off the car completely. Youtube has some videos you can watch.
Last edited by chopperjames619; 02-10-2014 at 01:51 PM. Reason: add info
#3062
Help me out here - stock front axle vs clamping hex front axle?
#3064
Only thing I can think of is the retaining screw backing out if the stock axle.
#3067
I fill the shock, compress the shaft a few times (to get the bubbles out) and let it sit for a couple of minutes, place the cap on without the bleeder screw in compress the shock slowly to the top then screw in the bleeder screw. Then I compress the shock multiple times, then done. Some people bleed the shocks an extra time after performing these steps. I do all of this with the shock off the car completely. Youtube has some videos you can watch.
#3069
#3071
dup
#3072
coated way more betta
Will not take long before the shaft gets scuffed and makes for more stick.
Polishing is not a great solution , just wears the shaft smaller & makes for more leaking.
The gold coating is harder then steel, smoother & wears the best.
Just make sure to buy the correct coated shafts from Ae and not the old b4 shafts.
Polishing is not a great solution , just wears the shaft smaller & makes for more leaking.
The gold coating is harder then steel, smoother & wears the best.
Just make sure to buy the correct coated shafts from Ae and not the old b4 shafts.
#3074
or maybe we'll be able to adjust track width......I have the mounts but no C'''pills.