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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 02-08-2014, 08:04 PM
  #2866  
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Car was phenominal and once I got the on power push out of it was the best 2wd buggy I have ever put a pack through.

I ended up 4th in mod after a horrible first lap and battled back from dead last. And 5th in stock after another first lap to the back. Both races were with a 17.5 reedy and no boost.

Changes I made are the following.

Front:
Black springs
32.5 oil

Rear:
27.5 oil
Stock white springs
2x1.6 pistons

Everything else is box stock. I was running blue pressure points with medium clsed cell rears and blue barcodes with 3/4 fronts. Our track is a slicks and sauce track and I was only one of few on treads. The picture is my mod run which is a full lap faster than my serpent ever was at the same track.
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Old 02-08-2014, 08:05 PM
  #2867  
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Forgot to mention I like 24mm front and 23mm rear ride height better than the setup sheet of 24mm front and rear. Jumps better and is better overall.
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Old 02-08-2014, 08:07 PM
  #2868  
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Oh yeah - and I offered at least 5 people the chance to drive it and only 1 person wasn't too afraid to break it to try the car. If I offer you the chance to drive it, just take it and try the car man!
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Old 02-08-2014, 08:09 PM
  #2869  
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Originally Posted by Grasschopper
Well I think I'm going to be stuck with the worlds worst spray bomb paint job. I tried doing it in my garage and the first coat isn't sticking AT ALL. I'm not sure if the paint sat on the shelf too long or what, never had lexan paint do this to me. Cold air maybe? The body and spray can were at room temp, I ran out into the garage and sprayed and then brought into the mud room to dry but the paint basically all ran into the top car and pooled there.

On to actual car talk...anyone else have an issue with the steering linkage binding? The one ball seems to be a touch too big or something and it is not free moving. Other than those issues the build is done and if I get a body that is remotely acceptable I should be racing it tomorrow.
How did you prep the body? Did you wash it with dish soap and lightly scuff it up via scotch pad, steel wool, or fine sandpaper?
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Old 02-08-2014, 08:16 PM
  #2870  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Easy solution

adjust the black standoffs by raising them 1 to 2m depending on the battery brand.
Yeah George - I'll be thinking of batteries as a one season option in the future and go with Hobbyking next time. The one I did buy from them is nearly dead (was great for 1 season!) but it worked very well for the time I would expect it to.
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Old 02-08-2014, 08:34 PM
  #2871  
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Originally Posted by Corners
How did you prep the body? Did you wash it with dish soap and lightly scuff it up via scotch pad, steel wool, or fine sandpaper?

I always lightly scuff the bodies with a scotch pad the a dish soap wash down...
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Old 02-08-2014, 08:48 PM
  #2872  
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Originally Posted by Corners
How did you prep the body? Did you wash it with dish soap and lightly scuff it up via scotch pad, steel wool, or fine sandpaper?
No...I'm an idiot and was in a rush. It looks horrible but is what it is and I hope it's dry in the morning because...

Well I sent a Viper VTX10 BE up in smoke tonight. Fool that I am I didn't want to pull the Speed Passion motor from my B4.2 just yet and didn't have extra bullets so I wired up an old motor I had in the tool box. Pretty sure I can blame to motor from the plume of smoke that came out of the Viper ESC. This brings me the my biggest (only so far) gripe about the B5: if you have to change the electronics quickly...well you're not going to. Cleaning all that double stick tape off was a PITA. Then I had to pull everything (Viper VTX10 and SP motor) from my B4.2 and install it in the B5. I guess I won't have the B4.2 as backup tomorrow.

Here's to clean runs and no broken parts.

Edit: Oh yea the other gripe about the B5: what's with the super thin body and wing? I tried to mount a Vortex wing and it is so much thicker than the stock wing I can't get the clips in. I'm going to have to shave the wing spacer/angle thing to fit the vortex.
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Old 02-08-2014, 08:53 PM
  #2873  
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Has anyone else noticed the slipper is a little too much for this vehicle? I barely have the nut on there and it's borderline too tight. Very fine increments of adjustment in either direction cause it to be either too tight or too loose. Should I sand my slipper pads down to get more slip/range of adjustment?
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Old 02-08-2014, 08:58 PM
  #2874  
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Don't know if it's already been asked, does anyone know what size batteries are Hartson Denny and Thielke are using? Short or saddle/square?
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Old 02-08-2014, 09:01 PM
  #2875  
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Originally Posted by Captcha


Car was phenominal and once I got the on power push out of it was the best 2wd buggy I have ever put a pack through.

I ended up 4th in mod after a horrible first lap and battled back from dead last. And 5th in stock after another first lap to the back. Both races were with a 17.5 reedy and no boost.

Changes I made are the following.

Front:
Black springs
32.5 oil

Rear:
27.5 oil
Stock white springs
2x1.6 pistons

Everything else is box stock. I was running blue pressure points with medium clsed cell rears and blue barcodes with 3/4 fronts. Our track is a slicks and sauce track and I was only one of few on treads. The picture is my mod run which is a full lap faster than my serpent ever was at the same track.
See the serpent is not the end all buggy grats on the run
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Old 02-08-2014, 09:06 PM
  #2876  
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Just a little info from racing the B5 for the first time today. I was TQ by over 12 seconds. In the main I had a ball stud come out of the rear hub. I read on here that this happened to Simone earlier in the week. I did loctite it and still came out. Get the 10 mm ball studs and replace the short ones so you can put a nylock nut on the ball stud named againt the blue plate. Just some advice. Car was killer!!
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Old 02-08-2014, 09:13 PM
  #2877  
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Originally Posted by WolfAusti
Has anyone else noticed the slipper is a little too much for this vehicle? I barely have the nut on there and it's borderline too tight. Very fine increments of adjustment in either direction cause it to be either too tight or too loose. Should I sand my slipper pads down to get more slip/range of adjustment?
I didn't notice that at all. Seems right on par with my 4.2.
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Old 02-08-2014, 09:14 PM
  #2878  
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the 3 disk slipper is more for mod. and I squeezed mine with pliers to compress it a little.
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Old 02-08-2014, 09:30 PM
  #2879  
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Originally Posted by xTotalghost
I never understoody why people do this, it offers no advantage and adds precious weight
I use shrink wrap and it works great. No reason to think it takes up weight.
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Old 02-08-2014, 09:37 PM
  #2880  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
the 3 disk slipper is more for mod. and I squeezed mine with pliers to compress it a little.
It's worked fine on 17.5 for me. With the nut flush the car won't go anywhere. If you compress the spring like you are supposed to, it is just fine.
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