Pittsdriver

iTrader: (11)

I have the shorty forward in my B5, and I am pretty sure I will have to add weights even in 17.5 to the front. There is a lot of weight in the rear. Especially with a light shorty, I will guess steering could be an issue.

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

I built mine last night but the kit was missing the rear hexes so I grabbed the AE aluminum hexes off my B4.2 ad they clamp fine. Is the offset correct? Also, man is the electrics compartment TIGHT! But I got everything in.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

what electronics are you using? I want to keep my hobbywing esc's, but I may end up using my viper or tekin esc's in the b5. The HW is slightly bigger than the orion 160amp. Plus the 4 cap bank. I am sure someone here must have a b4 and a b5 that can check the hexes. Sadly, i dont of I would. Just need to measure the width of both and compare.

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

Orion R10 and airtronics 92744 receiver. I had to swap out the R10 bulky capacitor with the LRP Team Works capacitor bank. Placed the switch on top of the receiver. Placed the transponder up front by the servo. I think the hex will work until I get the B5 aluminum hexes

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

Novak Impact and Spektrum Sr2000 fit in the electronics area with mucho room to spare

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

yeah, I am using airtronics receivers also. I am debating replacing the caps bank with a single 330uf caps mounted to the posts directly. like the tekin rs does it. that would free up a bit of space

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

That's only because all of what you are seeing in all these first wave kits was anodized together. Sadly, there are very few anodizers who carry out their process using exact measurements and temperatures and since with most colors it doesn't affect consistency much, Blue is a whole other story. Blue is in fact the most difficult color to produce consistently. Coming from paintball where every Marker is anodized, I can tell you that manufacturers that offer blue do larger runs of blue so as to keep long runs of Markers consistent. However, comparing blue Markers released 10 months apart may look identical but when you put them side by side the difference is noticeable. Tis why I wish Associated would move away from blue altogether. I have 3 different blues in both my T4.1 and B4.2 and my buddy's T4.2 kit has 2 different hues.

Slime Green is one of the most popular colors in anodizing the last 5 years, yet no manufacturer that I know of in RC uses it as their signature color. It's an easy color to keep consistent because its consistency is dependent on the temperature of the anodic bath and it's a lye that maintains its intensity longer than most and when it loses it, it's readily noticeable. There are several RC manufacturers who use Blue so why not switch?

There's also Bright Dip which costs the same as regular anodizing, but is a bit more durable and takes less pre-prep work.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

But gree nis ugly.... no seriously its ugly. If AE were to get away from the blue, I would think they go red. Because Red and blue are their corporate colors.

Mason

Spoold97

iTrader: (25)

Finally finished her up last night.

Tradin Paint

iTrader: (4)

Or because they are UofA colors?? Lol

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I gotta say, all of these look so nice with the clean wiring. The esc and receiver close and that channel up the middle make it easy to look clean.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

well yeah, that too AE and UA use the all American Colors

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

this guy put the caps on the side. I guess that is an option also.

Grasschopper

iTrader: (54)

I can do this tomorrow but hopefully someone will get to it before me.