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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 05-16-2015, 06:31 AM
  #20806  
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Originally Posted by Kevin E.
Hello guys.
I searched a complete night for a solution before asking here :-)

I am new to 2wd offroad , there is a problem with my servo arm.
I can do whatever i won't , it always touches my servo body.
I removed the shim , i used the servoarm spacer ...
Servo is a Futaba S9550.

grtz Kevin
Kevin, you should be OK with that clearance.

That said, that ballcup looks mashed, I would recommend replacing that poor guy.
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Old 05-16-2015, 06:55 AM
  #20807  
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Yeah guys , you'r right.
The servo horn doesn't travel that far when its in the car :-)

Yeah Socket , gonna replace that por guy :-)

Thankx for the feedback guys , problem solved
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Old 05-16-2015, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Kevin E.
Yeah guys , you'r right.
The servo horn doesn't travel that far when its in the car :-)

Yeah Socket , gonna replace that por guy :-)

Thankx for the feedback guys , problem solved
Take your ballstud and chuck each one in your dremel as you build them. Turn the dremel to high, and go until the ballstud gets hot. Then use a pair of pliers to slightly pinch the ball cup when it's hot. This won't mar the ballcup, and the ballstud will fit perfect.
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Old 05-16-2015, 10:44 AM
  #20809  
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Old 05-16-2015, 11:27 AM
  #20810  
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Originally Posted by JeepnMike
I know they all look the same.. But what the heck, here is a couple of photos of my Lite I finally finished. I try really hard to make my installs look clean, and I try my best painting the bodies considering I use rattle cans.

My kit wasn't missing anything and went together really well. Notable items to me:
  • Shock pistons needed a little shimming to keep the pistons tight.
  • If you don't buy the optional set screws, there is a bit of slop in the lower control arms at the hinge pins. I originally shimmed this, but eventually got set screws for the front and aluminum hubs in the rear.
  • 2 Ballstups were missing the hex head - they were just rounded. Speaking of ballstuds the aluminum hubs should come with ballstuds, they require a different length ballstud than what comes with the kit. Just one more thing to order.
  • I wish AE had better quality control over their anodizing.
  • I am tickled pink to finally have an AE car and be able to use my metric tools!
  • Shocks felt Kyosho-smooth.
  • Smooth and fun build, the usual great AE directions.

I can't wait to get it to the track and give it a shot. This is my first mid motor car and I am excited to see how different it goes than my B4.2 I hung onto for so long. I usually run JC tires but am giving Electrons a try as well with the new car. I am a total sucker for buying bling stuff but refrained a bit on this one. This kit comes with so much good stuff and the car in stock form will likely perform just fine for my driving abilities so it is kind of weird building something and not having a wish list for parts I want.

Anyway, here is a couple photos:




Man shrink tubing on the solder posts and a studder stopper.......
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Old 05-16-2015, 01:59 PM
  #20811  
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looks like a nice ride, just need to ditch the flysky.
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Old 05-16-2015, 05:42 PM
  #20812  
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Originally Posted by Bubonic-X
Man shrink tubing on the solder posts and a studder stopper.......
I prefer the look of only heat shrink on the battery posts. Solder posts for motor and motor solder tabs get no heat shrink for me.
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Old 05-16-2015, 06:34 PM
  #20813  
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Originally Posted by BrandonBreh
I prefer the look of only heat shrink on the battery posts. Solder posts for motor and motor solder tabs get no heat shrink for me.
u might perfer the look but you shouldnt do it. The post are heat sinks for the esc.
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Old 05-16-2015, 11:45 PM
  #20814  
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Can Anyone tell me why when I turn both rear wheels forwards by hand it feels like I have a gear jumping? I removed the motor with pinion attached and then re turned the wheels and it feels great. I was thinking diff.
Thanks for any help.
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Old 05-17-2015, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by landozer18
Can Anyone tell me why when I turn both rear wheels forwards by hand it feels like I have a gear jumping? I removed the motor with pinion attached and then re turned the wheels and it feels great. I was thinking diff.
Thanks for any help.
That's how it feels when you use the wheels to turn the motor, instead of using electricity to make the motor turn. Go ahead and hold the motor in your hand and lightly turn the pinion gear, you will feel the same notchiness. Its because of the magnet inside the motor aligning with the steel cores of the stator.

Also, in the future if you want to eliminate the motor from the equasion, just remove the pinion gear and leave the motor in place, that way you don't have to reset the gear mesh every time.
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Old 05-17-2015, 08:27 AM
  #20816  
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Im having some setup issues, whenever i get on the brakes my car wants to dart quickley to the left instead of stopping straight, I thought it was because my brakes were too high but even if I turn them down same result? is this an issue with suspension or droop?
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Old 05-17-2015, 10:31 AM
  #20817  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
looks like a nice ride, just need to ditch the flysky.
Funny thing.......one of our fastest drivers at sdrc in san diego was using a flysky and dominating in any class he raced. recently saw him with an mt4 but was pretty cool seeing him beat the poop out of the fast guys with a flysky.
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Old 05-17-2015, 11:10 AM
  #20818  
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So has anyone tested the new shocks? Are they worth the price tag?
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Old 05-17-2015, 12:12 PM
  #20819  
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22
So has anyone tested the new shocks? Are they worth the price tag?
Value is only worth to the person buying. To some, $10 for wheel nuts is expensive, to another person, that's just part of the game for buying what they think or assume is a high quality part.

I use the MIP transmission, and love it.

To another, that's stupid expensive and not worth it at all.

I wanted to buy a new kit, and build a new setup from ground up. I race 2-3 times a week, and feel like I am rather hard on equipment because some in indoors and some is outdoors.

Instead of buying a new kit, these shock bodies and shock shafts were timed perfectly, so I went with piecing together and rebuilding the needed parts on my kit with the new shocks.


If you're in the D, C, or B main, the new shocks won't get you to the A main. They're not a magical setup, they won't win you races.

Do they provide a new piece to upgrade and personalize your car? Yes.

Is kashima coating badass? Yes

Do you need these to win? No.
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Old 05-17-2015, 12:17 PM
  #20820  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
looks like a nice ride, just need to ditch the flysky.
Thank you for the compliment. The funny thing about the FlySky stuff. I have been running a Futaba 3PM-X for about 6 years. I bought the FlySky for a beach basher car of mine and started to like it. The menus kind of suck so I didn't think too much of it at first for use other than a toy car. After a while I started getting used to it and I have found over time that I liked it better than my Futaba radio so I started plopping it in my race buggies. I held on to the Futaba for a few months in case I wanted to roll back, but just recently sold it. I know it isn't the radio of choice for guys who race at a higher level, but for me (for now) I actually like it. It is light, responsive enough, and feels right in my hands.

To the guy picking at me for using heat shrink on my installs, kiss my grits I like the clean look and have never had a problem with it.
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