Micah123

iTrader: (1)

J & A are 23 tooth. J fits my spektrum 6040 servo but A does not. Anyone know why? Thinking inner diameter of horn must be different.

bds81175

iTrader: (20)

This is just my opinion....I like the flat front arms better everywhere. To me, they just supplied more linear steering in all conditions. In 17.5 racing, I have not had the need to try the B5 rear arms because I have not lacked for rear traction. I have a set in my pit box that have never been used.

Socket

iTrader: (61)

I got called out for not giving too much really useful information, so I'll take a crack at this.


Gullwings - more turn in, more aggressive feel, a little less on power steering. I prefer these everywhere so far - and I used to LOVE the flat arms as they mellow the car out.

B5R rear arms - give an immense amount of rear bite by shortening the wheel base, and allowing you to go I believe 5mm (Don't quote me) shorter than you can with the mid motor rear arms.

Mason

Where are you at on rear toe? anti squat?

bds81175

iTrader: (20)

Socket, you are a mod guy correct?

Socket

iTrader: (61)

After living and breathing (And spending a ton of cash...) I made the move from 17.5 to modified last month.

motoman811

iTrader: (15)

How Do limiters on the shock shaft front and rear effect the cars handling?

Mason

It limits the amount of weight transferred. If you go to far with it the car becomes very darty and hard to drive.

Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (170)

Why does it matter...J is for JR/Spektrum servos, which you have. A is for Airtronics. The J fits the servo you have (as it should), A does not (as it should). Measure the inner diameter and see for yourself.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I am wanting to play around with boosting my 17.5 in my B5m. I have a few ideas about how to go about it. Just wanted to see if anyone has done it and what your process was. I plan to run mod and 17.5 buggy, with minimal car changes. that is the goal. disabling boost, changing motor timing and a pinion is easy enough. I dont always feel like swapping motors on race day. so, here are my thoughts. I normally run 42deg timing, and i will drop it back to 30 deg, add 20 boost and 10 deg turbo. As I a mainly want the extra power on the straight to not get run over. Of course I will monitor temps. I am thinking i can leave my gearing at 69/30 for now. Based on my boosting tests in the past, I believe this is a reasonable starting point. thoughts?

Socket

iTrader: (61)

You won't go any faster than without boost, and it'll be a handful to drive when boost does hit. Then when the turbo hits it'll be even worse.The motor and the ESC will run hotter, and you'll wonder why you even bothered when you look at your lap times as they either don't change, or get worse.

To run modified, you need to commit and run a modified motor. They're more linear for power delivery, smoother, and over all much faster. This doesn't mean you'll go any faster, however it'll be much more predictable and easier to drive. I wasn't sure how light your car was, or if you've done all the wanted/needed 17.5 mods, but if you have, it will not be a fun car with big horsepower in it. A 13.5 would suite you nicely, and much better than a boosted 17.5.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

umm, actually you can get more "speed" with boost. When I boost 13.5, I normally only do turbo for straightaway speed, as the speed in the infield is not needed. And you are correct on the "feel", that is the main reason I normally only do light turbo. not very noticeable in the straight. boost does kinda feel like crap in the infield. I might rethink that. In the past I have been able to use boost and turbo to lower motor temps and gain more straight away speeds. It takes a little trial and error. If it was no benefit at all, then would ban it, lol. From my experience, it can be good or it can be crap, depending on how you implement it. The only reason I run 17.5 these day adhoc, is if Jesse comes up and wants to run 17.5. Otherwise I care less about 17.5

skrichter

iTrader: (13)

Not sure if this has been posted yet, but look familiar????

$7

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

dang, 7 bucks for a shock body. man yok stuff is cheap. No idea if it is the same coating.

Mantis Toboggan

iTrader: (4)

It is possible to have smooth, linear power delivery while running timing, but it takes a lot of work and knowledge on what adjustment to make. Gearing, motor timing, esc timing, start and end rpm all have effects on how and where power is made. I ran a Novak Sentry data logger so I could look at rpm and make adjustments based on what I saw/felt. When setup correctly the ESC makes a little more heat, but not so much that it was a concern. Ultimately the timing increased the top speed, but there is no way to make a 17.5 have the out of the hole rip of a mod motor.