136LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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05-04-2015, 12:19 PM
Anybody using a trinity d4 17.5? Is the 1s faster? Has anyone tried it?
05-04-2015, 12:34 PM
Running a Novak balistic 17.5, 69/31 right now. I'm thinking of getting another motor. I bought it used, and used it for a season in 17.5 sct. I've narrowed my choice to the Trinity d4 1s short stack, or the hobbywing bandit. Any thoughts of either? Anyone run them both?
05-04-2015, 12:43 PM
I asked around about this a few times. One guy here said he was running stock thrust in MIP without issue. Rebuilt mine 3 (15-20 packs) track days ago with stock and its been fine. YMMV.
05-04-2015, 12:55 PM
I run caged thrust on mine without issue, not necessary to use just theirs.
05-04-2015, 01:30 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
It is impossible to follow the instructions... thats my problem.....
Manual says align servo horn to 90 degrees. this can not be done . horn sits leaning to left or right and will not align to 90degrees. so the steering link is to long or to short. If i try to correct with steering trim I loose steering in one direction and it becomes undrivable.
Manual says align servo horn to 90 degrees. this can not be done . horn sits leaning to left or right and will not align to 90degrees. so the steering link is to long or to short. If i try to correct with steering trim I loose steering in one direction and it becomes undrivable.
05-04-2015, 01:57 PM
Tech Master
The Bandit is faster. No contest. However, the Bandit is not ROAR legal. If you club race and there are no specific rules the Bandit is the way to go. Its faster than a Big Blue and half the price. If you need to be ROAR legal the 1s D4 is a great choice. I have even had great luck with the regular Maxilla version of the D4.
05-04-2015, 02:32 PM
Something that bugs me is the camber links length on the B5m from the manual...
If I respect the book's length build (ie 27.5mm steering turnbuckles, 23.85mm front camber turnbuckles and 23.5mm rear camber turnbuckles) I get something quite far from the kit sheet setup which is at 1° negative for both rear and front camber. I actually get about 2° for both front and 4° both rear on my setup board.
Which one should I go with ? Better off trusting the length or the setup tool and the sheet?
Thanks
If I respect the book's length build (ie 27.5mm steering turnbuckles, 23.85mm front camber turnbuckles and 23.5mm rear camber turnbuckles) I get something quite far from the kit sheet setup which is at 1° negative for both rear and front camber. I actually get about 2° for both front and 4° both rear on my setup board.
Which one should I go with ? Better off trusting the length or the setup tool and the sheet?
Thanks
05-04-2015, 02:46 PM
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
Something that bugs me is the camber links length on the B5m from the manual...
If I respect the book's length build (ie 27.5mm steering turnbuckles, 23.85mm front camber turnbuckles and 23.5mm rear camber turnbuckles) I get something quite far from the kit sheet setup which is at 1° negative for both rear and front camber. I actually get about 2° for both front and 4° both rear on my setup board.
Which one should I go with ? Better off trusting the length or the setup tool and the sheet?
Thanks
If I respect the book's length build (ie 27.5mm steering turnbuckles, 23.85mm front camber turnbuckles and 23.5mm rear camber turnbuckles) I get something quite far from the kit sheet setup which is at 1° negative for both rear and front camber. I actually get about 2° for both front and 4° both rear on my setup board.
Which one should I go with ? Better off trusting the length or the setup tool and the sheet?
Thanks
05-04-2015, 02:53 PM
05-04-2015, 03:05 PM
You are off by a spline the only way to adjust it to 90 degrees is to use sub trim on your steering until the horn is 90 degres should only be a few clicks to get the horn straight up and down. As Wildcat said.... After that turn your servo on and adjust the turnbuckles until the wheels point straigt forward
05-04-2015, 03:22 PM
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
Sorry if I wasn't clear. I meant don't worry about whether or not you end up with the length of turnbuckle called for in the manual, once the links are on the car. Use the kit length to get yourself in the ballpark, then measure your actual camber/toe and adjust as needed to match whatever setup sheet you are following.
The main thing with the initial turnbuckle building is to get both steering links as close as possible to the same length. So try to match whatever distance between the links the manual calls for as closely as possible on both sides before installing the links on the car. That will get you as close as possible to centered and you should be able to adjust both steering links by the same amount every time to end up with the desired front toe.
Hopefully that helps and doesn't just add confusion.
The main thing with the initial turnbuckle building is to get both steering links as close as possible to the same length. So try to match whatever distance between the links the manual calls for as closely as possible on both sides before installing the links on the car. That will get you as close as possible to centered and you should be able to adjust both steering links by the same amount every time to end up with the desired front toe.
Hopefully that helps and doesn't just add confusion.
05-04-2015, 03:32 PM
Thank you 
you were quite clear.
I'm looking for the base figure (the angle itself) to set the cambers for most purposes. From the kit base sheet setup I should aim for 1° raer and 1° front. Is it good for most tracks ? Toe out will be 1° out as it is the one I'm used to and everybody uses.
Up until now I was using 1° camber everywhere but the turnbuckles standard length in the manual gave me doubts as I was far from this with everything at 1° camber set (and of course with the same camber link positions).
you were quite clear.I'm looking for the base figure (the angle itself) to set the cambers for most purposes. From the kit base sheet setup I should aim for 1° raer and 1° front. Is it good for most tracks ? Toe out will be 1° out as it is the one I'm used to and everybody uses.
Up until now I was using 1° camber everywhere but the turnbuckles standard length in the manual gave me doubts as I was far from this with everything at 1° camber set (and of course with the same camber link positions).
05-04-2015, 03:49 PM
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
Thank you you were quite clear.
I'm looking for the base figure (the angle itself) to set the cambers for most purposes. From the kit base sheet setup I should aim for 1° raer and 1° front. Is it good for most tracks ? Toe out will be 1° out as it is the one I'm used to and everybody uses.
Up until now I was using 1° camber everywhere but the turnbuckles standard length in the manual gave me doubts as I was far from this with everything at 1° camber set (and of course with the same camber link positions).
you were quite clear.I'm looking for the base figure (the angle itself) to set the cambers for most purposes. From the kit base sheet setup I should aim for 1° raer and 1° front. Is it good for most tracks ? Toe out will be 1° out as it is the one I'm used to and everybody uses.
Up until now I was using 1° camber everywhere but the turnbuckles standard length in the manual gave me doubts as I was far from this with everything at 1° camber set (and of course with the same camber link positions).
Lots of people run whatever is shown on the setup sheet included in the manual. I like to find a sheet on either Petitrc or the AE site that matches my track conditions and use that as my baseline. There are links to both in the first post of this thread.
-Chris
05-04-2015, 05:06 PM
I understand AE released new ball cups to replace the ones that bind up. Anyone know how or where to get these?
05-04-2015, 05:47 PM
Ok folks I'm back!
Been away 3 years (ick) Starting all over.
Earlier in the week I bought a used 2 month old B5M FT. The kid bought the kit, built it and ran 2 packs through it and decided it was not fun? Go figure??
Anyway I picked it up and am getting ready to try it out at Mhor.
It was put together wrong, lots of loose screws, front shocks were on the back and back on the front, Shock top O-rings were burst out of the collars from improper shock build, just a mess overall. But looks new!!
She came RTR with a Trackstar 3520Kv combo and Turnigy electrics.
Now that she's put back together properly I go and blow the spur gear trying to adjust the slipper clutch! Sure's not an old B4 slipper!
This one will not slip unless you almost have the adjusting nut off the shaft! I took it all apart and checked against the manual just to make sure everything is there and where it should be, and it is.
So my question after a 3 year nap, what do I need to do to set the slipper clutch on this beast??? My old B4 was easy this things another story!
Been away 3 years (ick) Starting all over.
Earlier in the week I bought a used 2 month old B5M FT. The kid bought the kit, built it and ran 2 packs through it and decided it was not fun? Go figure??
Anyway I picked it up and am getting ready to try it out at Mhor.
It was put together wrong, lots of loose screws, front shocks were on the back and back on the front, Shock top O-rings were burst out of the collars from improper shock build, just a mess overall. But looks new!!
She came RTR with a Trackstar 3520Kv combo and Turnigy electrics.
Now that she's put back together properly I go and blow the spur gear trying to adjust the slipper clutch! Sure's not an old B4 slipper!
This one will not slip unless you almost have the adjusting nut off the shaft! I took it all apart and checked against the manual just to make sure everything is there and where it should be, and it is.
So my question after a 3 year nap, what do I need to do to set the slipper clutch on this beast??? My old B4 was easy this things another story!